Nope, I use the hawke 30 moa shims. One goes on the bottom of the front and back mounts. They’re labeled f & r.
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If you shim or have tilted scope bases
- Thread starter Haganaga
- Start date
Thanks for the reply, I should have quoted. I was referring to the fiberglass method noted.
It seems that using a shim (or two shims front and rear) only UNDER the scope body would still cause a tilt of the scope body in relation to the top strap along with uneven pressure there. Understood that it is a very small tilt and that many do it successfully but it is why I don't use shims. Adjustable mounts and the Burris system address both the top and bottom of the ring.
It seems that using a shim (or two shims front and rear) only UNDER the scope body would still cause a tilt of the scope body in relation to the top strap along with uneven pressure there. Understood that it is a very small tilt and that many do it successfully but it is why I don't use shims. Adjustable mounts and the Burris system address both the top and bottom of the ring.
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Granted. But it’s minimal and the tilt can be made up by tightening the two forward bolt then the two rear bolts instead of the usual x pattern. But I digress, this post is meant for those who shim or cant their scopes and keep the turret screwed in the close setting for extended periods of time that the springs may set and therefore not be true when you need to click for distance. This was on another forum about tracking and was in reference to people who repair scopes. Take it for what it’s worth. I now store mine near the middle elevation.
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