If You Installed A regulator in a Fx WildCat? Was it hard? And what tools?

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NOT hard. Look for a video for some comfort. 2 Allen wrenches plus something to pull the reg (or push it out) is all it take (you may also need some pins to unscrew the rear cap (some stay on the action, some stay on the tube). I have a couple MKI's and don't like the FX reg. 2 of mine now have Huma regs with good results. Setting the pressure can take a little time and repeat efforts along with getting the HST where you want it. There was no magic answer for that setting on mine.

Even then you'll still have the get the hammer spring readjusted to your liking.

Search for Wildcat threads here. Lots of info, mostly positive. (I was trying to do something the gun didn't want to do so I'm not the 'norm')

That said, if you are worried about your warranty…. Send it to your retailer or Ernest at FX USA for a Huma reg and tune.

I think AoA 'repair' videos even cover most of this.
 
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As long as you take your time and double check the first time you take it apart, it is not that difficult. Ernest Rowe, and some others have some good you-tube videos.

Just beware, on you-tube videos I have seen, there is litle said about checking the position of the tube clamps. I would double check the distance from block, to where the clamps is on the tube, before losening the screws on the clamps. When you take the tube off if, you can by mistake move the clamps on the barrel out of position, as there is no longer a tube present to hold them in place. That could lead to the loading arm getting in wrong position, if you tighten them up again wrong. On my gun there is no space between the forward cheek rest and the most rearward clamp, so it was just for me to check there was no gap before I tightening them on the tube again. 
 
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That is probably the one thing that doesn't get mentioned enough. What tor47 is talking about is that when you loosen the clamps to get the tube out, things move around. The alignment of everything slides and things get out of "adjustment".

So what needs to happen every time you remove the tube and put it back is to check the probe depth. You will need a caliper for this. You just stick the end of the caliper in the hole at the back where the probe block slides back when you cock the gun. Measure that distance in the full forward position. It should be about 28.64mm. That is about the middle of the acceptable range. So if things move, just put it back together with the bottom 4 clamp bolts a little loose, and adjust the probe depth to where it belongs by sliding the clamps back and forth. A tiny adjustment makes a lot of difference here. You'll have to do it a couple of times to see it work like you want.

It sounds a lot more difficult than it is. Someone should make a short video showing how it is done.



Crusher


 
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That is probably the one thing that doesn't get mentioned enough. What tor47 is talking about is that when you loosen the clamps to get the tube out, things move around. The alignment of everything slides and things get out of "adjustment".

So what needs to happen every time you remove the tube and put it back is to check the probe depth. You will need a caliper for this. You just stick the end of the caliper in the hole at the back where the probe block slides back when you cock the gun. Measure that distance in the full forward position. It should be about 28.64mm. That is about the middle of the acceptable range. So if things move, just put it back together with the bottom 4 clamp bolts a little loose, and adjust the probe depth to where it belongs by sliding the clamps back and forth. A tiny adjustment makes a lot of difference here. You'll have to do it a couple of times to see it work like you want.

It sounds a lot more difficult than it is. Someone should make a short video showing how it is done.



Crusher

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I did not know about this. I went and measured on my gun as soon as I read it, and lucky me, it was just right about there:) Seemed like I had not misaligned anything last time I too it apart.
 
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Pay attention. Read instructions. When you remove OE reg the tower will be pointing at you. You'll want to put the Huma back the same way. WRONG! DID YOU HEAR ME? WRONG! Tower goes away. Secondly, the paper tag/ adjustment gage is not accurate . You would need a gage installed at brass vent screw to accurately set reg. I put one in my WC 22 and have first 2 shot low, and a jumper every once in a while. Leads me to think maybe my old reg wasn't THE or at least the whole problem i was having!

You will need to adjust probe depth also!
 
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Pay attention. Read instructions. When you remove OE reg the tower will be pointing at you. You'll want to put the Huma back the same way. WRONG! DID YOU HEAR ME? WRONG! Tower goes away. Secondly, the paper tag/ adjustment gage is not accurate . You would need a gage installed at brass vent screw to accurately set reg. I put one in my WC 22 and have first 2 shot low, and a jumper every once in a while. Leads me to think maybe my old reg wasn't THE or at least the whole problem i was having!

You will need to adjust probe depth also!
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It does seem to take quite a few shots to break in the Huma. Mine was a couple hundred. I originally tuned it for 920 with the 10.34's. Got it shooting great in about a tin full and then it started expanding in group size and using a bunch more air. Pulled out the chrony and it was 1020fps! Turned my reg down to 85-90 bar and now it's a lazer at 25yds shooting the 10.34's at 865. Getting well over 100 shots too. Get tired before it gets close to 90bar on my gauge.

Next time you have it apart check your A9 oring. Looking at mine with a 7x loupe could see all kinds of wear in it. It's 2.5x1.5 90 duro IIRC.
 
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Pay attention. Read instructions. When you remove OE reg the tower will be pointing at you. You'll want to put the Huma back the same way. WRONG! DID YOU HEAR ME? WRONG! Tower goes away. Secondly, the paper tag/ adjustment gage is not accurate . You would need a gage installed at brass vent screw to accurately set reg. I put one in my WC 22 and have first 2 shot low, and a jumper every once in a while. Leads me to think maybe my old reg wasn't THE or at least the whole problem i was having!

You will need to adjust probe depth also!
Click to expand...

I would install the gage first, and read the bar on the factory reg, before installing the new one. That way you have a reference point, to where set the huma reg. And by doing so it does not matter that much if the gage you use is not completely accurate, as you can just go lower or higher than what the factory reg was set at. 
 
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