A couple of weekends ago I decided to work on a recently purchased Crosman 101 with Straight Logo dating to about 1925 – 1927 had bronze compression tube and rifled steel barrel. The seller informed me it did not pump up or hold air and was hard to cock. I was so excited to find one of these locally and was glad to pay just $100.00 after some negotiation based upon sellers verbal description of condition.
During the purchase, I noticed the cocking knob moved a lot, what he did not tell me was the trigger sear was neaarly the only thing holding the valve and cocking assembly in the breech block. I discovered this issue when I tried to cock it and upoin pulling back on the knob I had the valve, lock nut and cocking assempbly in my hand, from there I decided it was time to strip it down and figure out what was going on.
I thought maybe just maybe it had been taken apart and not put back together. Sadly this is when I discovered the the treaded area in the breech block were what you can consider gone as there is nothing left to retrace, which puts this project in a bad place at the moment.
I have a few radical ideas on making the repair such as puting it back together in a similar fasion as how the old Rochesters were assemeble with the valve being assembly soldered to the compression tube. I know I can do this but any future repairs that may be needed become a real pain to do, or I can do a soldered valve approach knowing I would need to take the gun down from both sides if reapirs to seals are needed. However, before gettting radical I took the breech block and lock nut to a local gunsmith, he told me that he did not have the means to work on this and suggested using JB Weld since this was not a high torque area or function then tap/retrace the threads from the compression tube side of the action.
I am not sure about the JB Weld solution and before I get to radical or start looking for another straight logo gun I would really like to find out if others have had this problem and how the repair was made in those instances.
Here’s hoping someone out here has some tips or advise to help save a classic from being a visual example of what once was, if not I all I can say is it is my $100.00 lesson learned, or who knows maybe JB Weld or one of my radical solutions will be attempted and if it fails I may just have $100 worth of parts for the next one I find.
Regards
General Diagram of a 101 disregard years as basic components are the same as the older 101s, just newer ones have updated/improved parts:
Problem area is as follows:
Breech block (101-48) the interior female treads on this part are stripped so body lock nut (101-15) will not hold exhaust body (121-5) in place and comes out when up cock the gun (hammer assembly) parts: Hammer sleeve (101-39, Hammer Spring (101-8) Hammer Spring Lock (101-5, scres onto stem of exhaust body 121-5) and Hammer Plug (121-15). Due to stripped out breech block threads all of this comes out when cocking.
During the purchase, I noticed the cocking knob moved a lot, what he did not tell me was the trigger sear was neaarly the only thing holding the valve and cocking assembly in the breech block. I discovered this issue when I tried to cock it and upoin pulling back on the knob I had the valve, lock nut and cocking assempbly in my hand, from there I decided it was time to strip it down and figure out what was going on.
I thought maybe just maybe it had been taken apart and not put back together. Sadly this is when I discovered the the treaded area in the breech block were what you can consider gone as there is nothing left to retrace, which puts this project in a bad place at the moment.
I have a few radical ideas on making the repair such as puting it back together in a similar fasion as how the old Rochesters were assemeble with the valve being assembly soldered to the compression tube. I know I can do this but any future repairs that may be needed become a real pain to do, or I can do a soldered valve approach knowing I would need to take the gun down from both sides if reapirs to seals are needed. However, before gettting radical I took the breech block and lock nut to a local gunsmith, he told me that he did not have the means to work on this and suggested using JB Weld since this was not a high torque area or function then tap/retrace the threads from the compression tube side of the action.
I am not sure about the JB Weld solution and before I get to radical or start looking for another straight logo gun I would really like to find out if others have had this problem and how the repair was made in those instances.
Here’s hoping someone out here has some tips or advise to help save a classic from being a visual example of what once was, if not I all I can say is it is my $100.00 lesson learned, or who knows maybe JB Weld or one of my radical solutions will be attempted and if it fails I may just have $100 worth of parts for the next one I find.
Regards
General Diagram of a 101 disregard years as basic components are the same as the older 101s, just newer ones have updated/improved parts:
Problem area is as follows:
Breech block (101-48) the interior female treads on this part are stripped so body lock nut (101-15) will not hold exhaust body (121-5) in place and comes out when up cock the gun (hammer assembly) parts: Hammer sleeve (101-39, Hammer Spring (101-8) Hammer Spring Lock (101-5, scres onto stem of exhaust body 121-5) and Hammer Plug (121-15). Due to stripped out breech block threads all of this comes out when cocking.