I would like to extend an offer.
- Thread starter ajshoots
- Start date
Thanks for all the good information, it has inspired me to blow the dust off my gen 1 mrod 22 and give it one more chance at life in my hands
After that, I'm truly done for good!!
By by the way , what are you using to size your pellets? Are you slugging the barrel and having custom dies made? Thanks
After that, I'm truly done for good!! By by the way , what are you using to size your pellets? Are you slugging the barrel and having custom dies made? Thanks
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Yes, I slug the barrel then order custom dies through Lee Reloading.
If accuracy has been your issue, it is most likely due to an oversized bore. Crosman can't seem to fix this issue with their .22 barrels. Try the largest diameter pellets you can find. If that doesn't work, you probably need to rebarrel.
If accuracy has been your issue, it is most likely due to an oversized bore. Crosman can't seem to fix this issue with their .22 barrels. Try the largest diameter pellets you can find. If that doesn't work, you probably need to rebarrel.
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Thanks, that is just what I did. Ordered a good non crossman barrel. Also went and started polishing everything in side. Figured It was cheaper than selling it and starting over. It will be for 35-75 yard gun at best unless the new barrel is super accurate .
I see see on the thread were they are taking/do mods on one of the springs in the trigger what do that do?
I see see on the thread were they are taking/do mods on one of the springs in the trigger what do that do?
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Removing the "lawyer" spring greatly improves overall trigger performance and the ability to adjust it to a lower pull weight. By removing the "lawyer" spring and simply adjusting the settings, I can consistently set triggers single stage at 10oz and less.
If you need any help, feel free to contact me.
If you need any help, feel free to contact me.
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Will do thanks, is there a trick to placing o-rings between Barrel band and shroud? Did not have any luck when tried with the original barrle.
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I actually went with WAR set screw barrel bands or have some I have drilled and tapped to hold the shroud. If using orings, I always had to use either a metal pick or other tool to help shove the orings in place in the band. It works much better if you remove the factory oring that is inside the band as well. Some guys have used foam instead of orings.
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First, Thank you Aj for starting this post. You and others have put a lot of work in this and is much appreciated by many. I regret not joining this forum sooner. Without going over everything that was posted, I saw enough to stop here and share my experience with existing Marauder owners out there as well. Particularly Mrod 22 owners.
Several months ago I converted my 22 Mrod to a 25 and ordered the parts from crosman (only). Soon after the conversion, I found myself with more time in my hands, not tuning, not sorting pellets and experimenting which pellets work and don't work for my shooting mission (pesting). Then purchasing more of the same pellets that worked previously but soon find out that that tin suck (the group opened up). But this is my experience with my Mrod 22. Frustrating? HAIL YES IT WAS! But, this experience has given me the opportunity to learn much about PCP particularly the Marauder to get me online today to stand along side with Aj and other Marauder owners and say, "STAY AWAY FROM MARAUDERS MAN!!! STAY FAR FAR AWAY!!" J/K!! I would not hesitate to shoot next to other PCP rifles with my Marauder, no matter how much they're worth.
Okay, those who would like to convert their 22 to a 25, you will have to change the breech, barrel, shroud spacer, and all parts associated with the 25 cal. I've added a link to the parts chart for the Gen I & II. The parts I referenced below is for the Gen II. Gen I owners please refer to what applies to your gun. You will need to drain the air in order to do this. I've highlighted the parts needed as a "drop in" conversion. The parts highlighted with a red circle is optional and will save a little on cash since you will be using from existing parts. The cost for this conversion was $220 shipped. Note the prices for parts may have changed. Also note that I am not an expert, nor am I sober right now. This was pre-written last night while my family is doing last minute Christmas shopping. So anyone with this experience, please don't hesitate to chime in (hiccup!).
.
GEN II
http://www.crosman.com/pdf/manuals/BP2564S%20%20BP2564W_EVP.pdf
GEN I
http://www.crosman.com/pdf/manuals/2563%20EVP%20and%20PL.pdf
Tips:
Part 7: the most important part of the entire assembly. Check for other burrs or any other defects. Be sure the transfer port (the hole at the bottom of the barrel where the air comes thru the breech and into the barrel to push the pellet) is aligned properly in the breech prior to tightening Part 21. Keep Part 18 loose until you're satisfied the barrel & transfer port is properly aligned. Oh, put the magazine in to ensure you can easily install the magazine when you're done installing the barrel. I have only pushed several dry patches thru the barrel prior to putting hundreds of pellets thru it without issues. No lubed pellets. No Sorting. Just straight out of tin (JSB 25gr).
Part 8: remove any excess plastic left inside the shroud spacer before installation. This should be the first to be put on the barrel before installing the barrel inside the breech.
Part 14: keep these orings lubed. I've tried many brands of silicone but found this to be the best, last a long time and inexpensive (100% silicone)
Part 22: the head on these will strip after time and recommend replacing these before they strip. Not a fun chore trying to remove either.
Part 33: install the breech oring prior to installing the barrel in the breech.
Ok folks, I hope this helps those interested and knowing their Marauder does have other options. Is this cost effective? Maybe not. Others have sold their 22 and bought a 25Mrod or another brand PCP instead. I can just hope everyone have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
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AJ I'd like to get in touch regarding my 177 Marauder. It was originally a .22 but I wanted to try some field target so ordered the 177 barrel and bolt. I spent much of yesterday, several hundred pellets and most of the air in my tank trying to tune it for 880-900 fps with CPH pellets and a flat string. Tried both A team paths (long throw low spring and short throw high spring) and the BStaley o-ring buffer. Really not getting the string I'm hoping for.
With both A team techniques, I couldn't get the fps down below about 1050 without closing the transfer port screw to 2 turns open. With the BStaley oring tune I'm 4.5 turns open on the transfer port but a 20 fps ES (877-897) is only 30 shots from 2800-2300 psi.
I could really use some advice. Sending you a PM.
Paul
With both A team techniques, I couldn't get the fps down below about 1050 without closing the transfer port screw to 2 turns open. With the BStaley oring tune I'm 4.5 turns open on the transfer port but a 20 fps ES (877-897) is only 30 shots from 2800-2300 psi.
I could really use some advice. Sending you a PM.
Paul
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AJ,
I would like to get your opinion in this matter :
I own a marauder pistol (p rod) with double air tank and a LW barrel,and I'm thinking to add a Robert Lane regulator to get more consistency between shots .
I also have in my possession a FFH(free flight hammer ) that I bought from the yellow forum,but,I haven't install it yet .
My goal would be to get this gun to shoot in the 740/750's fps for the max . amount of shoots (maybe 4 magazines) before refills
Do you think it might be worth to get the regulator ,or,do you think it might be possible to get same results(somehow close ) by installing the FFH.
Right now,the p rod has a .109 TP with the disco hammer spring and the B Staley buffer mod .
What's your take on this ?
I would like to get your opinion in this matter :
I own a marauder pistol (p rod) with double air tank and a LW barrel,and I'm thinking to add a Robert Lane regulator to get more consistency between shots .
I also have in my possession a FFH(free flight hammer ) that I bought from the yellow forum,but,I haven't install it yet .
My goal would be to get this gun to shoot in the 740/750's fps for the max . amount of shoots (maybe 4 magazines) before refills
Do you think it might be worth to get the regulator ,or,do you think it might be possible to get same results(somehow close ) by installing the FFH.
Right now,the p rod has a .109 TP with the disco hammer spring and the B Staley buffer mod .
What's your take on this ?
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I have no clue what results you may get with an FFH? I have made my own SSG's for Marauder rifles but never made one for my P-rod, so I have no clue what a p-rod will do with those types of debounce devices?
I have regulated a number of p-rod's with standard airtubes and Huma Regs. 3+ mags at 700-720fps is very easy to get. I did regulate a .177 M-rod that had almost a 50% shot count gain by adding one of my hardware store SSG's. Based on that, I would assume that a regulated p-rod with an FFH or SSG could work very well?
I have regulated a number of p-rod's with standard airtubes and Huma Regs. 3+ mags at 700-720fps is very easy to get. I did regulate a .177 M-rod that had almost a 50% shot count gain by adding one of my hardware store SSG's. Based on that, I would assume that a regulated p-rod with an FFH or SSG could work very well?
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AJ hats off to you !! I had a friend do same with an AirArms I was struggling with ! There are some classy guys in this sport !
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