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I damaged screw threads on my new Fx Crown .25

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F

fabio

Member
Apr 2, 2018
29
1
SAO PAULO, Brazil
Hi people..my new Fx Crown .25 just arrived down here in Brazil, she was chronographing at 770 fps with MKII .25 ,33,95grains,with valve reg at 140 bar , and after some days I decided to increase velocity to 860 fps the same I have on my Impact .25. So I proceed to take out the slack from the sliding block with the appropriate allen wrench but the screw was freezed ( ? ) and in doing so I damaged the screw threads , in trying to get the hammer spring adjuster out , it happened the same because of an also freezed screw.No FX assistance down here in Brazil . Any chance to have a internet help ?

Regards 

Fabio




















 
A few good tricks for removing 'stripped' bolts/screws:

If you're able to use an allen wrench still.. go for it.. But if not, and left-hand-driver aka screw-extractor will work.
Heat: Heating the screw will do two things - expand/contract it and/or help break the grip of any LocTite - if applied. 
So that's sort of a 2-in-1. Then after heat has been applied, try reversing again.. 
You can direct the heat only to the screw by using a high temp soldering iron, so no need for flame..

If the screw sticks out from the surface, you can also use a small / thin cut-off-disk on a rotary tool, 
and grind out a 'slit' in the head of the screw. Deeper = better. Then use a flat-head driver on it.
If you cut a "+" groove, you can use a phillips driver on it.

One last trick is cooling/freezing added to the mix..

Heat will Expand. Cold will Contract.

Cold can be made by using aerosol keyboard spray, and flipping the bottle up side down.. 
You'll displace the liquid inside, and it will shoot out extremely cold liquid. Don't get that on your skin!

Heat the surrounding area of metal to 'expand it', then use the 'freeze' on the screw only.. 
You can direct that via the little straw that goes into the nozzle/tip on the can.

That will expand the area around the screw, and contract the screw.. 
While it only does this by a very small amount obviously, sometimes that's more than enough.

Good luck!

👍 

Sam -
 
Upvote 0
well if it is a 1.5 mm allen it is 3 mm screw 

the funny thing about tight screws are they don't respond to twist very well with your hand and small screw are the worst 

but they will come out with an butterfly air wrench and the proper tools 

if you have not screw up the hex head of the set screw you would have to have the best bit you can buy like WIHA and then the air tool 

see the air tool doesn't twist the screw, it hammers it out 

now if said screw head has been damaged then you need a carbide drill bit and in this case 2 mm and a set of these Ate pro usa 3/8 drive impact extractor 50201

and i know that is a lot of tools and i know in Brazil they might be impossible to find but that's all i have 

oh i used these tools on HW 45 barrel band screws 

so this is just info for you or other 

good luck a gun smith might be you best bet 
 
Upvote 0
A few good tricks for removing 'stripped' bolts/screws:

If you're able to use an allen wrench still.. go for it.. But if not, and left-hand-driver aka screw-extractor will work.
Heat: Heating the screw will do two things - expand/contract it and/or help break the grip of any LocTite - if applied. 
So that's sort of a 2-in-1. Then after heat has been applied, try reversing again.. 
You can direct the heat only to the screw by using a high temp soldering iron, so no need for flame..

If the screw sticks out from the surface, you can also use a small / thin cut-off-disk on a rotary tool, 
and grind out a 'slit' in the head of the screw. Deeper = better. Then use a flat-head driver on it.
If you cut a "+" groove, you can use a phillips driver on it.

One last trick is cooling/freezing added to the mix..

Heat will Expand. Cold will Contract.

Cold can be made by using aerosol keyboard spray, and flipping the bottle up side down.. 
You'll displace the liquid inside, and it will shoot out extremely cold liquid. Don't get that on your skin!

Heat the surrounding area of metal to 'expand it', then use the 'freeze' on the screw only.. 
You can direct that via the little straw that goes into the nozzle/tip on the can.

That will expand the area around the screw, and contract the screw.. 
While it only does this by a very small amount obviously, sometimes that's more than enough.

Good luck!

1f44d.svg
 

Sam -
Click to expand...

Man, I had to do this a couple of years ago for (15 of the 17) 1/2" flat head bolts that were holding a skid plate on a Jeep I used to have. Whoever had it off last didn't use anti-seize, torqued them down to the point of stripping them, and they were some super cheap-o grade metal. Took me a full day, but afterwards I put in a new set of grade 5. 

I bring this up to the OP - don't cheap out on the replacement screw, and make sure you're using good quality wrenches. If you have to torque something hard enough to strip the head, use heat. I would get a friend to hold a soldering iron on the exposed part of the screw as you try and get it off using a long, skinny torx bit close to 1.5mm. You can go straight in with a skinny enough tool, instead of using an L-shaped key, which it easier for getting at it 👍
 
Upvote 0
A few good tricks for removing 'stripped' bolts/screws:

If you're able to use an allen wrench still.. go for it.. But if not, and left-hand-driver aka screw-extractor will work.
Heat: Heating the screw will do two things - expand/contract it and/or help break the grip of any LocTite - if applied. 
So that's sort of a 2-in-1. Then after heat has been applied, try reversing again.. 
You can direct the heat only to the screw by using a high temp soldering iron, so no need for flame..

If the screw sticks out from the surface, you can also use a small / thin cut-off-disk on a rotary tool, 
and grind out a 'slit' in the head of the screw. Deeper = better. Then use a flat-head driver on it.
If you cut a "+" groove, you can use a phillips driver on it.

One last trick is cooling/freezing added to the mix..

Heat will Expand. Cold will Contract.

Cold can be made by using aerosol keyboard spray, and flipping the bottle up side down.. 
You'll displace the liquid inside, and it will shoot out extremely cold liquid. Don't get that on your skin!

Heat the surrounding area of metal to 'expand it', then use the 'freeze' on the screw only.. 
You can direct that via the little straw that goes into the nozzle/tip on the can.

That will expand the area around the screw, and contract the screw.. 
While it only does this by a very small amount obviously, sometimes that's more than enough.

Good luck!

1f44d.svg
 

Sam -
Click to expand...

Man, I had to do this a couple of years ago for (15 of the 17) 1/2" flat head bolts that were holding a skid plate on a Jeep I used to have. Whoever had it off last didn't use anti-seize, torqued them down to the point of stripping them, and they were some super cheap-o grade metal. Took me a full day, but afterwards I put in a new set of grade 5. 

I bring this up to the OP - don't cheap out on the replacement screw, and make sure you're using good quality wrenches. If you have to torque something hard enough to strip the head, use heat. I would get a friend to hold a soldering iron on the exposed part of the screw as you try and get it off using a long, skinny torx bit close to 1.5mm. You can go straight in with a skinny enough tool, instead of using an L-shaped key, which it easier for getting at it 👍
Click to expand...

Aw man, I feel your pain! 
I'm in NY [winters and salt/corrosion/rust] and in the 13+ years that I ran my custom shops, 
it feels like I must have removed an infinite number of frozen/stripped nuts/bolt/studs.. I most certain feel your pain. 

One more trick - that we did - that we forgot to mention here..

"IMPACTS" - Another possible way of helping to free stubborn hardware is to smack em' around, and show em' who's boss!
With the smaller hardware, the best bet is to use the right allen or close - in 'bit' form: [like you'd use in a driver/handle]
Make sure things are solid / no way to move around [movement can accidentally absorb some of the impact/force]

Put the bit into the screw, hold it from the side with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and tap the top of the bit with a hammer.. 
Often, the 'shock' from the tapping/pounding impact will help loosen the bite of the threads and/or help with thread-locker.. 

Also, +1 on using higher-end tools to work on things. Especially when dealing with small hardware. 
Usually cheaper tools are made.. well.. cheaper. Their metal isn't strong enough to retain shape and rigidity, 
the tool ends up stripping out, and then strips out the bolt/nut, etc. 
Another thing is the size/tolerance of the tool.. If they're off by just a tiny bit, things can get stripped/rounded.

+1 on making sure to use high quality replacement hardware also. That's Very Important.
Same deal.. cheap hardware is cheap for a reason.. It's usually inferior metal and usually not sized 100%
That'll just lead to more headaches - either when reinstalling, or, later down the road. The less frustration the better, 
and why not prevent that if/when we have the chance?!

👍 

Sam -

 
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