HW97 performance after broken main spring is replaced with Vortek kit

Jump to latest Follow Reply
I agree with you on that. The TX is so easy to beak down and put together. The most difficult part for me with the 97 was getting the cap threaded properly. I would have preferred a high output Vortek tune kit but had a hard enough time threading the low power. Think I'm going top put another bolt in my c clamp compressor as it went out of line a bit as I was screwing on the cap. which I think, forced the compressed spring into the side of the top of the plastic spring guide. I'm seriously thinking of purchasing a AA Pro Sport .177 when they are in stock again. mainly because I can easily work on it . I have read some good and not so good about the rifle. They are also very expensive. Any thoughts on the Pro Sport?
 
Upvote 0
I put a Vortek kit in my 97. I have tuned a number of other spring guns with a simple shim tube made from sheet steel of varying thicknesses formed into a tube that wraps the spring.

Most say that plays second fiddle to a spring guide that fits tightly in the spring, but I have found the shim around spring to work quite well. I also feel a little of each is best and so the Vortek kit went in. Both a tight spring guide and a shim over the spring.

The gun shoots at 850 FPS with JSB dome 8.44 grain pellets and when the wind is calm, it is somewhat normal to have 5 pellets in the same ragged hole at 40 yards with this kit installed.
 
Upvote 0
 Five pellets in the same hole at 40 is deadly accurate in my books, serious shooting fun there. It seems the Vortek tune kits are a great up grade. Good to hear that the Pro Sport is an accurate rifle but part of it I'm sure is that you know what you are doing in the installation of up grade Vortek tune kits. I installed a steel PG4 ( I think) kit in my TX 200 and now so much fun to shoot. The accuracy especially out 40 to 50 yards is astounding. I hit a .177 pellet resting on a golf tee at 43 yards tonight , first try using AA 10.3 , 5.52.heads. Probably never try it again as won't be able to do it, mostly just luck but I'll take it. Even with the embarrassingly poor job I did installing the Vortek PG3-12 Tune kit in my 97k, crunchy cocking feel and all, the accuracy is fantastic. Bdzjlz explained how I could correct this crunch but think I'll just put up with it because it works so well. 
 
Upvote 0
The full power 97 kit does not have significant preload. It could even be less than the 12fpe kit because it uses a different wire spring with a steeper spring rate. Don't fear the ho kit. Just follow my instructions a page back and you'll be fine. I can get a 97 completely apart and back together in half hour or less. No fuss no muss and no spring compressor (with the Vortek kit). It's actually better if you don't use one so you can align the guide with the piston. They're easy once you do it a couple of times. I'd rather do them than a break barrel because there's no fussing with barrel pivot tension. 
 
Upvote 0
I now think that perhaps using my spring compressor when installing the Vortek -12 in my 97 was the reason my spring guide was damaged but just seemed like more pre load than I could handle while trying to push the cap down and turning the rifle( vertical position) to start the threads. First one I ever attempted. Have a lot to learn,

You see to indicate that the pivot bolt on my HW 95 might be a bit of a struggle when I attemptto install the HO PG4 Vortek kit. Is there a certain trick to it that might make things go smoother? From the U Tubes I've seen, it looks pretty straight forward. This is the same U Tube where the guy doesn't use a compressor while knocking out the 4 little blocks. probably a very low pressure spring, I'm not putting him down in any way. He seems very good at the process , just makes it look so straight forward.
 
Upvote 0
The pivot bolt adjustment is just a fine balance where a little rotation makes it go from too light to too tight. It not rocket science it's just a little bit of a pain. The left side is a bolt and the right side is a lock nut. You get it close to the right tension with the bolt. Hold it in place and tighten the lock nut. The adjustment will tighten as you lock it down. If it's too tight (or loose) loosen the lock nut, adjust the bolt and try again. Not hard but it's fussy to get the right balance. I typically like the barrels looser than most. My barrels won't hold themselves up after opening when fully cocked. 

There's no need to compress the block to remove the square blocks. The rotation of the keyed housing holds the spring pressure quite adequately. I never use a compressor on a 95 either. They're easier to get together than a 97. The modern Hw50 uses the same system. Internally it's basically a destroked 95.

I'm a big guy and prefer to work without a compressor because it deadens the feedback from the parts fit. What works for me may not be best for you. Work in a manner that you feel safe. Just be careful not to crush stuff with the compressor. 
 
Upvote 0
My technique for starting the threads properly on a threaded cap is to first start the cap without the spring and guide. Then back it out and mark the orientation of the cap where the threads disengage. On final assembly, orient the cap just a little CCW of where the threads disengaged, apply pressure to the cap (I use a spring compressor), and the cap should pick up the threads smoothly. I also use an aluminum bar to rotate the cap into its final position. Some rifles require quite a bit of force at the end.
 
Upvote 0
When working on your 95 remember this disassembly order 

Spring >Barrel>Piston.

Install is reverse.

You need to remove the barrel to remove the piston to change the seal, but you can't remove the barrel safely under spring pressure.

The barrel pivot bolt is always under spring pressure. When locked its the detent spring and unlocked its the main spring. Only remove and reinstall the barrel in the unlocked position with main spring removed. Otherwise your likely to damage the fine thread of the bolt and or fork. 
 
Upvote 0
Michigander, That is exactly how i did it. Must have practiced finding the exact click in spot 50 times with no spring. I did mark the spot and with spring and piston installed , stared a bit CCW as you did. My problem was balancing the spring pressure with the pressure from the compressor to catch that first thread . Tried to do it by hand when it was real close but just couldn't get it started. A bit more pressure on the cap got things connected but was afraid of a cross thread situation. Don't think I have the skills yet to install a high powered main spring I ordered but no need to now as very pleased with the Vortek - 12. I did polish everything started with 400 grit all the way to 1500. I followed some U tube British guys guys and did the inside and outside of the piston sleeve. I understand why the inside should be polished but not the outside? What is the reason for this?

Mycapt65, Thanks so much for the sequence in dismantling the R9. That's invaluable info for me. Whenever I read a sentence with the words screw and strip side by side , I get a sick feeling in my stomach. I.ve stripped a few spark plugs and oil drain bolts in my day and know the pain very well. Definitely want to avoid stripping the pivot bolt. . i haven't received the Vortek kit or piston seal yet but should be arriving soon. I did order one of those small spring compressors that clamp on the dove tail just in case. I am a bit worried about getting the 4 little steel blocks out and don't even understand their purpose yet as never been inside the gun. I'm sure I'll have a few questions once I get going. 

Thanks for taking the time to reply. 

Al
 
Upvote 0
Getting the pivot bolt started without messing up the threads or shim washers can be a pain. I use a slave pin the diameter of the fork thread ID, and having a tapered end. I feed that through from the unthreaded side to line everything up, then use the protruding end as a lever to keep things aligned while I feed the bolt in. I haven't had any problems since I started using the slave pin.
 
Upvote 0
See the attached, though keep in mind that I usually remove one half to a full coil off of the Vortek kit springs as they are shipped.
EDBF8563-D630-4B0D-AABA-58A8D4506E57.1650309888.jpeg

 
Upvote 0
Very nice shooting there . You have some great guns to choose from. My next and probably last gun will be 98 or Pro sport. . Do you find your 98 much different shooting , accuracy wise, than your R9? Does the adjustable stock and barrel shroud make much overall difference? I have the same rifle 97 Black line stainless. The predator 6.79 look fantastic. How do you think this pellet would group out 40 - 50 yards on a windless day? I have never used that light of pellet. I also I have a Helix Element svp 6-24 x50 on my 97K . Just purchased the New Airmax 30 Wide angle 6-25 x50 for my tX200. What a fantastic scope that is , best one I have by far. I find it much better than my Elements at the higher magnification levels as usually shoot in low light conditions. Really like the Hawke scopes, very fine reticle and very clear, I have a Hawke Vantage 4- 16 on my R9.

i assume you were shooting this on an indoor range as can't see the distance but looks like 18 yards. Your TX shoots the AA, 8,44 very well. What diameter heads does your gun like? The only pellet mine shoots really really well is the 10.3's AA or JSB, doesn't make much difference. My 97k loves AA or JSB 4,51 but not 4,52's ? My R9 was shooting FTT 8.6gr (I think) incredibly accurately out shooting the TX and 97, However something happened and no idea what. The gun is relatively new ,. barrel cleaned but lately will not shoot at all? So frustrating. \breech seal seems fine , It seems like it has lost power ,almost lobbing pellets and very susceptible to cross winds while before it wasn't. The cocking pressure hasn't changed and it it still silk smooth but almost think part of the spring broke , don't know. I am really curious to see what it looks like when I take it apart to install the HO Vortek tune kit.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu