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HW80 spring buzz.... ELIMINATED.

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S

seven08

Member
Oct 14, 2018
366
7
CO, United States
So I am 200 shots into my second tin and that annoying spring buzz is still bugging me. No signs of letting up. Enough I say! Down to the shop I go. I use my special process screw heat transfer method and remove them. Then going by memory on that European dudes YouTube disassembly video it's off to the races! I used my best fitting Brownells driver set for practically zero screw damage. Just a little bluing rub in the slots. I will admit this tear down is a little more complicated than the D34's, but I had no problems taking my time. I could not bear the thought of using a cloth covered wrench to break the threaded end block free. I had an aluminum short bar and leather to keep it in place.

I also used the suggested sleeve method over the internal threads to protect the seal when entering the tube. Great tip!! Thanks.

My home made spring compressor was perfect for the job with no modifications needed. I replaced the factory guts with Vortek components smearing on all the grease in the little supplied cup. No question with over an inch of spring hanging out a compressor was a must. Reassembly was relatively easy. I put a dab of grease on that little hex nut for the rear trigger guard screw to keep it in place. It fell out and I almost re assembled with it laying on the towel out of sight. I put a light epoxy film on the screw cap under sides and tightened them up.

30 minutes later after cleaning up and putting tools away...time for a test. Quiet with no more buzzing..NICE. Just a no buzz or vibration "thook" sound like my quiet 34 (one now) has. The Vortex scope while still in the RWS mount went right back on. It took 35-40 shots for the whole system to settle down and pellets returning to the prior impact point. Still nice tight little clusters and QUIET!!! 

I will get another Vortek spring and seal ordered to have on hand.



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Good job Bob ! I like your spring compressor! I have a few questions regarding pictures #9 and #10. I assume that flat nylon material is to protect the piston seal when reinstalling the piston with the new seal ? What is the thickness of that material ? Looks to be between .020 and .030". Is that first one or two inches of the receiver tube the point where piston seal damage occurs? Those female threads in the receiver tube are probably quite sharp. Again, nice job Bob !!

I always make sure that my Phillips head bit fits the slots of the screw head in full. I have a Bosch driver and bit set that has both a PZ2 and a P2 bit. I was going to use the PZ2 on my RWS 34 forearm screws until I took a close look at the fit before breaking them free. The bit did not fit the slots in full which could have resulted in damage to the slots. The P2 fit fine. The moral of the story is to make sure your bit fits properly before tightening/ loosening any fastener.


 
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That plastic material is from a common gallon water jug from the store. HDPE about .015 thick. I shot it with silicone spray to make it even more slippery. And no, the threads are not very rough or sharp. Better to be safe than sorry. And the skirt edge will not snag every thread on the way in. As a retired machinist I have great respect for using proper tools for the job at hand.

I got another 100 shots down range before the sun went down. Me very happy.👍
 
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" As a retired machinist I have great respect for using proper tools for the job at hand. "

My comment about bit heads wasn't directed at you. Is was towards others who may not know the differences between a PZ2 and P2 phillips. I am enjoying picking your brain for good pointers. Using silicone on a piece of plastic jug to protect the piston seal. Good stuff !!

So how is the firing behavior? Does is seem less harsh which is common to more powerful spring airguns ?
 
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Oh yes, noticeable difference. I did not find the prior firing behavior harsh. Just that buzzing and vibration was nasty. It is a lot smoother now. I probably could have applied that sticky grease to the stock spring and have had the same results. I got that Tune in a Tube grease now and will reapply as needed to keep it smooth. I believe it was WHITEFANG that suggested the plastic sleeve trick. 



Here is the thread I started about the spring fixture I made. I just looked at home made ones online and came up with this rendition. It is 25" long 6" wide 7" tall

https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/my-new-spring-replacement-fixture/
 
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3/8 " all thread. You making one like it? If you want to hear how much buzz it had, listen to a new one in Joe's review.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbM8timBPuI



My muzzle grab handle, break or what ever you want to call it finally arrived minutes ago from AoA. They were out of stock when I placed the order. Exact one I had on my 124D in the mid 80's. I had to shorten and repoint the set screw by .030. It was sticking out just enough to irritate the web of my thumb when cocking.

I will leave the rear sight base on to hide that pin and holes. A little square of electric tape is pinned down over the rear hole.

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I'll make one in time. What kind on drive handle did you go with on the screw actuator? Also, what kind of material did you use for the female side of the drive screw actuator? Can't really tell from the pictures. Nice wood work I must say!! Is that Douglas Fir or Oak ?

I had a Beeman R1 (HW80) back in the late 80's and the power plant sound never bothered me. It was in .177cal and I had it until Beeman came out with their first gas spring rifle. The RX in 5mm, which combined Theoben and HW technology. I had a hang fire issue soon after purchasing it and I had Beeman repair it. They stamped it RX-1 when I got it back. I had it for 3-4 years and wish I never sold it. It popped out 11.3 gr pointed Silver Jet pellets extremely accurate at 910 fps. 
 
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I hit the 4 tin fired mark today and decided to tear down and clean and regrease the spring. The spring grease had obviously scattered and the buzzing was getting more pronounced. Reassembling this time was more of a pain today. Trying to keep those thin pivot washers lined up while inserting the pivot bolt was driving me nuts. There is just enough spring pressure on the cocking link to make inserting that bolt tough. I had a real problem getting the threads engaged on the opposite side fork with the bolt under pressure. I nicked both thin washers and needed to Dremel out the minor damage. This is where Diana has a better washer retention bevel machined into the block, no slipping with their washers.

Any tips to share to take pressure off of assembling that bolt and nut? I did not want to drive out the cocking link pin from the barrel assembly. 
 
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Honestly, I was not really familiar with the kits and their reputed noise dampening characteristics. This would have been a near $100.00 upgrade if you go with the recommended seal. Let's just say I was tapped out for money after buying the gun.😉 I will consider that kit in the future. I see that Pyramid Air carries most HW80 parts but is currently out of stock on those thin washer shims.

http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/PG3-TUNE_KITS/HW80_R1_AIRGUN



I had this in the house and lubed my spring with it for a try. Very thick paste like the Vortek supplied grease. Synthetic with moly with no petroleum odor. Sold at most auto parts stores. Winds here now are howling at 40 mph, no shooting for me today.

https://www.zoro.com/crc-synthetic-brakecaliper-grease-8-oz-05359/i/G1990335/


 
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Yes absolutely! 

Unfortunately you've made the spring compressor to work with the barrel removed, 

When I tune the 80, which I have done many many times, remove everything from the rear end first! No spring pressure, then break the barrel before removing the bolt, 

On reassembly fit the shims once greased to the barrel in the broken position once the cocking shoe is in place, easy 

No spring pressure and no damage to anything. 

Do it this way and you will enjoy retuning the gun, 

PG 

Tuner 


 
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