HW/Weihrauch HW35E spring ?

[ChuckHunter]

Huh!
I might be missing something here but if your only getting 5.5fpe sounds to me you have more troubles than just a spring. Like a bad or leaking compression tube! I've read that some of the older ones had issues.

 

[Mycapt65]

Huh!
I might be missing something here but if your only getting 5.5fpe sounds to me you have more troubles than just a spring. Like a bad or leaking compression tube! I've read that some of the older ones had issues.

That they did. I forgot about that. Good point!

 

[beerthief]

Quenching : nobody said anything about temp's ? i always heat the oil up to 175 to heat treat . From cherry red to room temp can produce brittleness .

 

[ChuckHunter]

Quenching : nobody said anything about temp's ? i always heat the oil up to 175 to heat treat . From cherry red to room temp can produce brittleness .

No need for quenching!
Those collapsed coils are no longer in play so need for any tempering. Just grind flat again.

 

[Mycapt65]

Quenching : nobody said anything about temp's ? i always heat the oil up to 175 to heat treat . From cherry red to room temp can produce brittleness .

Interesting. I'd like to try that. What do you use to heat the oil up. What oil do you use?

 

[ChuckHunter]

I would just think some of the heat would make it to the coils that are doing something.... I may be wrong but I was just a thought.

Only the red hot area is going to loose its tempting! As far the compression chamber I think there was some problems with the end plug where the transfer port is. Leaking around the outer edge! Not sure of the fix for it! That factory spring in that rifle should be producing around 12fpe! What does you seal look like?

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

I ordered the factory spring from AOA.
Motörhead installed it with no difficulties at all.
I had Scott remove the VORTEK 12fpe kit.
The 35E is back to factory specs..
I wish the trigger on the R1 was as good as the one on the 35E

 

[SpiralGroove]

Thanks for the pictures of the set up. Do you do any kind of quenching in oil or water to the spring ?

Oil only - or nothing.
Water will cause undesirable brittleness.

 

[thumper]

You're converted leather-seal piston is part of the problem. They are slightly different dimensions compared to a modern production synthetic seal piston. That could explain some of the preload difference and also the low power due to a shorter stroke.

Also, the leather seal guns have big 4mm transfer ports, and some had leaky tube issues. Both of these things can contribute to lower power vs a new production 35.

 

[thumper]

The compression tubes are made with a plug that the breech forks are milled into, that is brazed into the main tube. The brazing could have been cold or inadequate and the pressure leaks around it.

The fix is loctite, put you have to make a piston to force the stuff into the seams while it cures.

It's a huge PITA

 

[thumper]

What brand and style of piston seal are you running?

I've had issues with deep lip parachute seals on 30mm guns. If they are oversprung even a little, the seal can have a lot of braking force and rob a TON of power.

On the flip side, a cup face seal needs a really good dimensioned tube and proper sizing to be at its best.

I'd take it apart one more time, and cover the transfer port and push the piston down and see if it is mostly air tight. That's a start.