wonder how $$$ it would be to replace barrels in .20 on a HW35 or 77 long or hw85 ?
I'm not sure the .20 caliber has ever been available for the HW35?
Also, the HW77 is a fixed barreled gun, hence best to buy the .20 caliber on a new gun ..............

HW85 barrels are the same as HW95 or HW80 barrels - the etching maybe different ...............
 
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wonder how $$$ it would be to replace barrels in .20 on a HW35 or 77 long or hw85 ?
20 caliber barrels are significantly more than 177 or 22 when bought separately. A HW 80k 20 cal barrel five years ago cost me 170 USD from Chambers compared to 110-120 USD for the same barrel in 177 or 22.

To change calibers on a 77 you'd have to buy an entire new receiver and matching trigger housing. I can't imagine that would be cheap.

HTH
Ron
 
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20 caliber barrels are significantly more than 177 or 22 when bought separately. A HW 80k 20 cal barrel five years ago cost me 170 USD from Chambers compared to 110-120 USD for the same barrel in 177 or 22.

To change calibers on a 77 you'd have to buy an entire new receiver and matching trigger housing. I can't imagine that would be cheap.

HTH
Ron
better to just order a 77 long in .20
 
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First purchase in 1978 was a Beeman FWB 124 Standard, using all my burger-flipping money. Two years later, added an FWB 124 Deluxe. Hunted with both guns for 10 years or so, gun used a simple ball detent. for barrel locking The 124 was one of the most accurate springer-sporters ever made - still have a scrap box of one-hole groups saved from my youth. The ball detent was easy to close without being too loud. Carried both guns on slings with no issue. Finding HW's barrel latching implementations very interesting and enjoyable to read about, but can't help wonder if the actual utility/importance of it is overestimated. FWB came up with a great solution that was light, repeatable, and enjoyable. Still have both guns, both are still tack drivers except now they have fancy Maccari stocks, and Maccari tune kits with seals that don't crumble in my hands.

Now working on my first HW purchase.... was set on an HW95 Luxus but you guys have me second-guessing if I should switch gears to an HW35E in Walnut. FWB made it so easy- here's your ONE option lol. With HW it's like walking down the cereal aisle! Pretty sure I'm going to end up with 3 or 4 HW's, they all offer something a little bit different and they are so well supported. Thanks for all the education!

View attachment 275419
Those 124s are very nice looking rifles! Love those stocks.
My opinion when comparing an FWB124 with the HW 35:
The 35 will seem like a big turkey next to a nimble 124.

My 2 cents
 
My HW35E 22 caliber.
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That hw35e is a beautiful rifle. Walnut, sling studs, iron sights...lots of stuff to like. My only complaint looks wise are the finger grooves instead of checkering on the forestock....very similar design to the b3-3, and I can't unsee it. At least that is on the stock pics at AoA
The finger grooves are no longer made. AOA’s picture is a few years outdated.
 
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Well previously in this thread on page 1 I posted this remark...

"So many guns and so little time, I'm sticking with my tried-and-true HW30s Deluxe in 177 and my HW50s in 20 caliber."

I must confess to picking up a 35 on AoA's pre-owned site in .177. It came with the standard open sites and I'm hooked. Took another turn in the rabbit hole 😉

 
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Well previously in this thread on page 1 I posted this remark...

"So many guns and so little time, I'm sticking with my tried-and-true HW30s Deluxe in 177 and my HW50s in 20 caliber."

I must confess to picking up a 35 on AoA's pre-owned site in .177. It came with the standard open sites and I'm hooked. Took another turn in the rabbit hole 😉
I also have a H35E and love it with iron sights instead of a scope. The stock just seems suited for shooting with iron sights.
 
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I like the Finger grooves much better.....
Me too!

Some don't like the look of this traditionally German detail, but I love 'em, and more thought went into this simple detail than you might think.

I have kinda dinky hands, and appreciate the secure feeling of my fingers "sinking in" to the stock a bit. And the grooves were carefully located so that their mid-point is near the balance point of the gun (with iron sights, that is...all bets are off with a bulky scope). This makes for stress-free carrying, is a good reference point for a consistent hold, and sliding your fingers to the rear of the groove when shouldering the rifle gives just the right slighly muzzle-heavy "hang."
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There's a lot of good information if you want a 35. Recently I was sent one of the last new finger groove 177 Hw35s to tune. After working on it and shooting it I don't see the attraction to them. I know there's a whole crowd of people who love their 35s so my opinions may not be appreciated by them. I will post my opinions only to provide a pragmatic counterpoint for those considering either of these rifles.

I have a 177 Hw50 had and sold a nice 22 Hw50. I only sold it because I didn't like the caliber at that power level. After owning two Hw50s, working on a few others and finally working on and shooting a Hw35, I can say I much prefer the Hw50. Here's some stats and reasons why I prefer the Hw50s.

Keep in mind that they both make the same power.

The Hw35 is a full two pounds heavier with the same sighting systems. That's actual scale weight. Not advertised weight. That's a lot of extra weight for the same power. That extra weight will fatigue the shooter sooner.

The Hw50 is a little shorter. This and the lighter weight makes it a little quicker and easier to handle. Especially for hunting.

The Hw50 is much easier to work on. While some see the threaded block as a plus, it's a pain to work with. Also the threads can wear out. Granted it takes alot of disassembly/assembly to happen. Damage can be done to the threads if over tightened. Once the threads are damaged or worn, there's no real fix for that that I know, other than replacing the compression tube.
The spring loaded barrel locking bar makes getting the barrel in place a little trickier on the 35 as well. If you don't work on your guns none of these maintenance issues are a concern. If you do realize that it will take twice as long to strip and rebuild the 35.

I find the barrel release on the 35 more awkward and slower than a traditional break barrel. There's nothing magical about the locking system. It's still spring loaded opposing angles that are subject to wear. The only differences is you have to release it manually and it's not centrally mounted in the breech.

The only plus I can find for the 35 is that it's longer barrel makes it easier cock than the 50.

Those are the physical and mechanical reasons I prefer the 50 to 35. Now for my personal reasons.

I much prefer the more traditional rifle looks of the 50. I don't like any of the abbreviated Weihrauch stocks. I find exposed breeches ugly.

The size, weight and stock design just make the 50 fit my style of shooting better. I find the 50 points and shoulders better than any other Weihrauch I've used. It's why it's my squirrel woods gun.

I've alway said my favorite rifles bar none are my Hw30s. I've also always said if I could only have one air rifle it would be my 177 Hw50. For me the Hw50 is the perfect balance of size weight, power and serviceability. Again these are my personal findings and if you prefer the Hw35 better because it fits your needs better. God bless you. Both guns are well made so there's no right or wrong here. It's just personal preference based on what fits you personal needs and tastes.

Be well
Ron
Thanks for the great breakdown.
 
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