HW100S Beeman marked slight ruff start.

[wildcj5]

I horse traded for this HW100S .22. Have always been interested in them but they always seemed a bit complicated.

I’m not totally sure on the history of this one the tube says 2015 but I think the tube was replaced so not sure when the rifle was built.

When I first started shooting groups I was less than impressed. It was not accurate at all. It would put a couple tightly together and then throw one an inch left. After searching the web I came across all the threads on bad barrels and my heart sank.

I stripped the rifle down and all the grease in the cocking unit was gummy and nasty. So I cleaned and polished everything and deburred all the edges. I did not touch the reg or valve. It seems fine right now and I don’t have replacement seals .

After pulling the barrel and pushing some pellets through I noticed it was putting a deep cut in the pellet skirts. I started with some mild solutions to it but didn’t get much luck. So after pulling some redneck tricks and polishing it now shoots great. I have no count how many times I had the barrel in and out checking and reworking.

I know the design is old at this point but what a well thought out rifle. The one thing I do not care for is the single barrel bolt and that it is hidden behind the air cylinder. But the design does allow you to orientate the barrel in any position.


Anyone know about when Beeman was importing these?

 

[cavedweller]

Interesting information

 

[Ranchibi]

Wild, nice work on that barrel. Built like a vault to now go along with it's accuracy! Enjoy shooting it!

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

That is a very nice straight grained stock.

 

[Filnez]

Very nice!

 

[MMCM13]

Huntington Beach address was 1994 to 2009 from what I see.

 

[MikeVV]

Wild -

The receiver looks and sounds like, from your description, just like the HW100 of today (2023) !!
I have two HW100 bullpups. Had one apart and back together. The barrel locking screw is...yes...between the barrel and the air cylinder at an angle. And yeah, you have to remove the air cylinder to remove the barrel. The air cylinder looks like the same design of today also. The only thing missing, is todays guns have a barrel band from the step (larger diameter area) on the cylinder to the barrel. I was going to remove the barrel band on one of mine, but then thought, I have a habit of grabbing the gun by the barrel to remove it from my safe, so I decided to leave it in place.
The magazine is very similar, but different in some details. The magazine lock is the same.

Is there a tiny little o-ring on the valve in the receiver that goes inside of the air cylinder when you put it in place and screw it on ?
The current, best o-ring seems to be a synthetic of some kind, not a rubber one. So if your gun leaks there, that's your best bet, hunt for the synthetic version.

If you look, you can buy aluminum and, or titanium air cylinders to drop a little weight from the front of the gun. Just be sure that the "socket" is the same where the valve pin area goes into the cylinder socket.

Looks like a nice find actually.

Mike

 

[elh0102]

They are great rifles. I have a carbine length in .177 that I really like for yard use. I tuned it down to 12 fpe, which gives a great shot count, is virtually silent, and still has sufficient power for squirrels. It has a great two-stage trigger. Mine is set around 6 ounces, and has been totally reliable, although I would give it bit more sear engagement if I were banging around the woods with it. Congratulations, you will like it.

 

[wildcj5]

Wild -

The receiver looks and sounds like, from your description, just like the HW100 of today (2023) !!
I have two HW100 bullpups. Had one apart and back together. The barrel locking screw is...yes...between the barrel and the air cylinder at an angle. And yeah, you have to remove the air cylinder to remove the barrel. The air cylinder looks like the same design of today also. The only thing missing, is todays guns have a barrel band from the step (larger diameter area) on the cylinder to the barrel. I was going to remove the barrel band on one of mine, but then thought, I have a habit of grabbing the gun by the barrel to remove it from my safe, so I decided to leave it in place.
The magazine is very similar, but different in some details. The magazine lock is the same.

Is there a tiny little o-ring on the valve in the receiver that goes inside of the air cylinder when you put it in place and screw it on ?
The current, best o-ring seems to be a synthetic of some kind, not a rubber one. So if your gun leaks there, that's your best bet, hunt for the synthetic version.

If you look, you can buy aluminum and, or titanium air cylinders to drop a little weight from the front of the gun. Just be sure that the "socket" is the same where the valve pin area goes into the cylinder socket.

Looks like a nice find actually.

Mike

It did/does have a barrel band. The guy I got it from said when he had a new cylinder put in the tuner left the band off. The PO didn’t know how to remove the ldc or barrel so he left it off.

Because I was fighting the accuracy and taking it apart every five minutes I left it off.

The cylinder is not a match to the gun.

Yes it does have a small rubber oring under the cylinder.

 

[wildcj5]

They are great rifles. I have a carbine length in .177 that I really like for yard use. I tuned it down to 12 fpe, which gives a great shot count, is virtually silent, and still has sufficient power for squirrels. It has a great two-stage trigger. Mine is set around 6 ounces, and has been totally reliable, although I would give it bit more sear engagement if I were banging around the woods with it. Congratulations, you will like it.

This one was at 25ftlb. I turned it down to 14ftlbs. With the long barrel it is backyard friendly already. Adding the ldc made it silent.

I do like the trigger. It does have a bit of creap I need to look into.

i also removed the cocking spring that assisted on cycling the side lever.

I am really glad I got this thing. I have a fair pile of rifles and I would say this and my USFT are the most unique in design.

 

[wildcj5]

Wild, nice work on that barrel. Built like a vault to now go along with it's accuracy! Enjoy shooting it!

And now I am down one Styer pistol.

 

[elh0102]

This one was at 25ftlb. I turned it down to 14ftlbs. With the long barrel it is backyard friendly already. Adding the ldc made it silent.

I do like the trigger. It does have a bit of creap I need to look into.

i also removed the cocking spring that assisted on cycling the side lever.

I am really glad I got this thing. I have a fair pile of rifles and I would say this and my USFT are the most unique in design.

The reg is easy to adjust. If you slowed it by adjusting the hammer spring only, you can work with the reg to get a better balance, more shots and less sound.
The key trigger adjustment is the one they don't tell you about. The sear engagement screw is on the bottom, you might have to slide the trigger shoe out of the way. Most of them come with creep, as I'm sure they are conservative in their adjustment and don't want to risk accidental discharges. But if you are careful in your adjustment, you can get it creep free, with a very crisp let off.

 

[wildcj5]

The reg is easy to adjust. If you slowed it by adjusting the hammer spring only, you can work with the reg to get a better balance, more shots and less sound.
The key trigger adjustment is the one they don't tell you about. The sear engagement screw is on the bottom, you might have to slide the trigger shoe out of the way. Most of them come with creep, as I'm sure they are conservative in their adjustment and don't want to risk accidental discharges. But if you are careful in your adjustment, you can get it creep free, with a very crisp let off.

Thanks for the tip on the seat engagement. I knew it was hiding in there somewhere but I was so focused on the barrel.

The 25ftlb tune looked to have a reg pressure somewhere around 2k the hammer was also done all the way in. People like their power. Haha.

I don’t have a reg tester but I did give the adjuster a turn. I will need to test over the chrono and see where it falls off.

And thank you for all the advice. I should have taken some pictures as I was putting things back together. I hbe some quick before pictures I took just in case I could remember assembly order.

One other thing I found. The grub screw that holds the thin rod on the hammer is mia. So someone has been inside or HW qc was lacking on assembling this one.

A few before pictures.