Tuning Huma reg sealing disks too soft

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Strangely, I’ve used about 400 of these regs and never had this creep problem. I don’t change out any of the parts.

The actual truth is that if I’m having a velocity issue, the Huma reg will be last on my list of things to check….and I never get down to the bottom of the list before finding the problem. They have honestly been that reliable for me. I tell guys that are competing to change the orings once a season if they never want to have a problem…but have had some guns go 5-6 years before the orings went bad. It takes 10 minutes to rebuild the reg.

Because my gun has a “jet” system….I set the reg and then never touch it again until it needs a rebuild. Guys that constantly adjust the reg for “tuning” tend to have problems.

Mike 
 
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If speaking of the Raised " Volcano Rim" portion of the adjustment bonnet against sealing disk ?

We will have too agree to disagree. There done on a rotating CNC lathe, where concentricity is guaranteed. Hole is in the middle and rim is created facing off end stopping short of the hole, O.D. is machined and threads cut very likely without re-fixturing. Now the exact sequence of programmed steps I have no idea.



Just understand that parts in the round spun on Lathes really have no way to get such features out of center unless done so deliberately.



Scott S



PS,

let me add ... Threaded parts with always have radial clearance or they would bind up. This makes for a place where if there is dirt, a hair or any garbage at all in the threads of the adjustment bonnet it could side shift it a few .000 and make the seat not centered within housing or upon the disk.
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I agree with you Scott but my experience with those Huma regulators which we set at a certain point and dont touch it much like our traditional PCP is good.

But in Impact in which we adjust tge regulator sometimes many times a day, I could not appreciate Huma.

Bhaur
 
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Strangely, I’ve used about 400 of these regs and never had this creep problem. I don’t change out any of the parts.

The actual truth is that if I’m having a velocity issue, the Huma reg will be last on my list of things to check….and I never get down to the bottom of the list before finding the problem. They have honestly been that reliable for me. I tell guys that are competing to change the orings once a season if they never want to have a problem…but have had some guns go 5-6 years before the orings went bad. It takes 10 minutes to rebuild the reg.

Because my gun has a “jet” system….I set the reg and then never touch it again until it needs a rebuild. Guys that constantly adjust the reg for “tuning” tend to have problems.

Mike
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Have you analyzed Huma regs looking at the pressure and creep only? I know the gun can be tuned to minimize the influence of reg inconsistency issues but how about pure reg performance?
 
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Yes….a long time ago. Never found anything to concern myself over. Haven’t given it a moment’s thought since then. Over a years time they will indent the plastic and the set pressure will increase a little. I don’t recommend that anyone who spends money on traveling and competing seriously to go longer than a season without a rebuild. Depending on the climate and the care of the gun….the orings cannot be fully trusted to never fail if they have been in service for over a season. They can go longer than that, but it’s better to be proactive and avoid the potential since it’s a simple process to rebuild. There is no good reason to not flip the disc or put in a new one if you are already in there changing orings.

Since I only build competition guns….the end result of the complete rifle is the only thing that I really care to measure. The targets do the talking. If they weren’t saying good things….I would certainly hear about it. For my purposes, the Huma reg in stock form does everything I need it to do. 

Mike 
 
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A few comments about regulators in general...

Every regulator under the sun develops pressure creep as the seat wears. And most new regulators creep until they have been cycled enough times for the plastic seal to take on an imprint of the mating surface, which brings us to some divergent tradeoffs.

A soft material improves the odds it will not creep in the early going, however it will then wear more quickly to the point it needs to be replaced.

A hard material is more likely to creep in the early going...but once broken in, will last longer. If the seating surfaces are of supremely high quality from the start, you can get the best of both worlds. That's easier said than done. In a typical production setting, the risk:reward ratio is pretty high.

All that to say it is possible to improve almost any regulator by using an upgraded seat material and dressing the surfaces. In my experience, Huma's reputation for making high quality regulators is well deserved. It doesn't mean I will stop looking for little ways to improve them.

It should also follow that any comparison between two regulators would need to control for where they are in their life cycle. Otherwise it’s quite easy to find examples that perform well or examples that perform poorly.
 
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