Huben pistol.
- Thread starter Nomadic Pirate 66
- Start date
Perhaps you misunderstand "pellet seating" I have said this before, but I'll repeat this for your benefit. The magazine bores are exactly .250". The rear side of the magazine is chamfered to retain the oversize pellet skirt, which is .260" on the JSB pellet. It is that chamfer that retains the pellet from falling advertently into the barrel that creates jams. Seating the pellet further into the magazine bore defeats the ability to retain the pellet. The GK1 magazine is designed for pellets, not slugs. Slugs, having no skirt, must bind in the .250" bores by being slightly larger.
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This important point seems to be slow to catch on with this pistol. I have found this to be true in my experience with not just this gun. I only shoot pellets, and have never felt the need or desire to seat a pellet in any of my airguns over the past 50 years, and I have owned way more than I can remember. I know it's been a common theme in competition for decades, where you're looking to gain as much consistency as possible.
My GK1 has about 700 JSB 13.4's down the barrel so far without a hint of an issue, with the exception of using an aftermarket loading gate for about 5 minutes that caused some pellet distortion.
I would not purchase a gun that "required" seating. Simply don't need it, and I like keeping things simple.
Just my personal opinion, YMMV
Thanks for trying to educate us Steve, we can all use that.
Have fun
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Someone made a compact (shorter) version of the GK1:
Honestly looks pretty good, aside from the 3D printed shroud that is. If the shroud was made out of aluminum it would be better. Obviously the shorter airtube reduces the short count quite significantly. But apparantly the power loss is minimal, despite the shorter barrel. Only a about 4 or 5 fpe.
It kinda makes me wish the GK1 receives more modularity in the future, similar to how Edgun does it with the Leshiy 2. Options for different grips, barrels, shrouds, etc would be pretty awesome. The gun is so easy to take apart, it would take minimal effort to swap out the airtube for example. Not sure how easy it would be to change between barrels, without messing up the alignment.
Anyway, knowing Huben, they aren't really the type of manufacturer to go for this modular stuff. So I guess we'll just have to make do with after market stuff from 3rd parties.
Honestly looks pretty good, aside from the 3D printed shroud that is. If the shroud was made out of aluminum it would be better. Obviously the shorter airtube reduces the short count quite significantly. But apparantly the power loss is minimal, despite the shorter barrel. Only a about 4 or 5 fpe.
It kinda makes me wish the GK1 receives more modularity in the future, similar to how Edgun does it with the Leshiy 2. Options for different grips, barrels, shrouds, etc would be pretty awesome. The gun is so easy to take apart, it would take minimal effort to swap out the airtube for example. Not sure how easy it would be to change between barrels, without messing up the alignment.
Anyway, knowing Huben, they aren't really the type of manufacturer to go for this modular stuff. So I guess we'll just have to make do with after market stuff from 3rd parties.
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The key to high FPE in any airgun is as little throttling as possible. The cross-sectional area of the channel to the HPA should be as high as possible, the equivalent of 6-9mm diameter (all the way), even if the barrel inner diameter is then 5.5mm or whatever. Most PCPs can't get this right because you then need very high hammer forces (to open up a large valve/piston), or a balanced valve and so on. The Huben system doesn't have a hammer/conventional valve and can get around this problem.
Having said all this - the GK1 has too low shot count as it is at high powers. Shorter is super cool but - the benefits of a longer barrel and longer or bigger tank, is not just a higher shot count - you could also, hypothetically, get a flat/plateau FPS shot string at high-ish powers.
I've actually redone my GK1 grip - sanded away the wide area on the bottom and all of the hump on the back and now I regret this a bit. The widened bit on the bottom definitely needs to go, but the bit of the hump which coincides with the exact center of your palm needs to stay. The lower part of the hump can/should also go. So basically, the stock grip needs a narrower bottom, lengthwise, by removing the widened portion and the lower part of the back hump (by making it curve towards the bottom even more). It also obviously needs a wider and thicker top, but this can't be modded very easily.
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I just have to post this.....
I have never owned a pistol that is so easy to shoot accurately, as this Huben.
Its cold up here in NH, and I like to open the sliding door a few times a day about a foot, and take a few supported shots at my hanging targets on my back yard range.
I cant remember ever doing this with a pistol, where I walk away giggling to myself because I just hit every target on the first shot. This scenario has been repeating itself for the past nine days since I received this wonderful little shooting machine. "Lots of giggling"
Seriously, I know others have stated how accurate this gun is, but man, I am so impressed!
Have fun.
I have never owned a pistol that is so easy to shoot accurately, as this Huben.
Its cold up here in NH, and I like to open the sliding door a few times a day about a foot, and take a few supported shots at my hanging targets on my back yard range.
I cant remember ever doing this with a pistol, where I walk away giggling to myself because I just hit every target on the first shot. This scenario has been repeating itself for the past nine days since I received this wonderful little shooting machine. "Lots of giggling"
Seriously, I know others have stated how accurate this gun is, but man, I am so impressed!
Have fun.
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I refuse to modify my grip in any way. They go for 279 euro a piece on the Huben webshop. Which is honestly a criminal amount for a small piece of wood. You can buy an entry level PCP for that money. No way Im touching it. I'd rather wait for after market grips or print my own in due time.
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I first checked that they do have spare grips before I did it, of course. It is better overall as it is now, but it could have been slightly betterer. Don't go modding anything other than only the bottom of the grip, if at all - that's my experience.
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This is correct - seating is not needed and only serves to deform the pellets and make them loose in the mag. Just click them in, using the stock gate, which prevents the skirts catching on the action, and shoot. Fast and easy.
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This is the result of shaping the grip; arrow points towards the bit that probably should have stayed (and stayed more than the sketch implies).
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Yeah, that's why I'm not touching it. I'm not super handy anyway, so it's best for me to wait or get it done by a professional. The bottom does look way better though. I hate that big protruding oval shape at the bottom of the grip.
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Kelly showed me one he had. There was the option to chop the shroud (then it doesn't marry the action well) or a 3d printed ABS one he showed me. The ABS one looked better, the chopped one kind of ruined the aesthetic, but not too bad. I doubt Manny's pigs care how it looks lol.
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I know what my line up will be now,
Forget the Pup, ..........I will turn my pistol into a carbine ( I like that BuckRail unit )
Then get a shorty.
Forget the Pup, ..........I will turn my pistol into a carbine ( I like that BuckRail unit )
Then get a shorty.
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I still think the lower part of the hump also needs to go but I'll test that on the next grip, if there is one.
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Steve-I,
Is this chamfer you mentioned exclusive to the GK1's magazine bores or is it also a feature of the K1 magazines?
Brian
Is this chamfer you mentioned exclusive to the GK1's magazine bores or is it also a feature of the K1 magazines?
Brian
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