Huben pistol.

[Jimcking]

What length suppressors do you guys think is the most ideal for the GK1 when using iron sights?

I’m gonna start modifying my existing suppressor designs for the GK1. One will be 26mm or less (the Huben design is 26mm I believe) and the other will be like a SilencerCo Osprey once I get a design like that working and matured like my existing designs). The one pictured is 4.25” X 2.02” and results in a dB reduction of 10.3 vs the DonnyFL which is sized almost identically and achieves a reduction of 4.7 on the GK1 .25.

This testing was done while dry firing with the power set to between 69 and 47 ft-ibs (69 peak at 350 Bar, 47 trough at 160 Bar).

I haven’t started selling any airgun parts yet, but will add my current designs to my website and be ready to start shipping within the next few weeks. If there is interest, I’d be willing to start selling the ones for the Huben earlier than the rest. Their design will be more plain than the others (at least the early models for the Huben) since I didn’t order any PA12 MJF decorative end caps in 24-26mm like I did in 1.51 and 2.02” for my other designs that include the “For Airguns Only” text and caliber designation/American-Gadsden flag hybrid design.

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How are you getting the matte finish on your 3d prints?

 

[TeslaToTheMoon]

Interesting internal structure. At first glance I thought that the orange part was impossible to remove supports for baffles during printing and not the pressure absorbing cells themselves. I played with similar design in the past except that I constructed the shell out of a PVC pipe and used foam to absorb the sound. Just as a proof of concept. It is indeed quite efficient for airguns.

Here’s the Split View printed, much easier to discern the internal structure here.

How are you getting the matte finish on your 3d prints?

I think it is a combination of variables, I believe the most relevant ones are the filament type I’m using, layer height, print speed, fan speed, and temperature.

Filament: 3DXTECH Black ASA
LH: 0.16
Outer Wall Print Speed: 40mm/s
Infill Print Speed: 75mm/s
FS: 40% (I find that in my particular printer, I need at least 40% fan speed to avoid overheating distortion)
First layer temp: 235
Subsequent layers: 260

May or may not be super relevant, but nozzle size 0.6mm, wall widths are 0.8mm, infill width 0.6mm.

*Edit: Oh, also Fuzzy Skin in Cura or Prusa slicer, I’m not sure if any of the other slicers have that setting or not.

I’ve found that lower layer heights come out less shiny for me than higher ones, for example, 0.14 comes out even more matte than 0.16 for me but adds a little too much print time for my liking on this printer, once I get the new one which should be able to print 2-4 times faster (Qidi X Max 3) I may bump it back down to 0.14mm. This particular suppressor takes 10 hours to print on the current machine (Qidi X-Plus), so I think it should come down to one every 2.5-5 hours with the new printer. I can’t wait to try printing out a 12-13 incher with the new printer, lol.

 

[-Ricochet-]

Thanks for sharing. This has inspired me to experiment with a few designs, internal patterns etc.

 

[DonEnzone]

How are you getting the matte finish on your 3d prints?

I usually sand my prints down by hand. It gives them a matte finish, and gets rid of imperfections as well as those line/grid patterns you typically see on 3D printed objects. It takes a loooong time and is incredibly tedious, but the result is often worth it. Especially on rounded parts.

 

[TeslaToTheMoon]

Here is V1 of an offset suppressor design for fully unobstructed iron sight usage. This iteration is 4.25" X 2.25" X 1.5" and is resulting in a 9.7 dB reduction vs unsuppressed at 69 ft-ibs in my testing, the plan is to make them in lengths of 4.25", 6", and possibly 7.8" if there is interest and it ends up working well in testing.

*Edit: LOL, my hair, I just noticed how bad it was. When you clearly need a shower but were too busy designing and testing to get it done.

 

[airgunmike56]

Wow I am sure that off set Moderator is pretty light, Looks way cool, keep us informed , If your going to sell them and how much you asking , When i get my adapter in I plan to use a few Moderators I made out of carbon fiber tubes , I am sure I will upgrade pretty soon, Short is good, Fat is OK as long as you can still use sights , Light weight is king..
Mike

 

[TeslaToTheMoon]

Wow I am sure that off set Moderator is pretty light, Looks way cool, keep us informed , If your going to sell them and how much you asking , When i get my adapter in I plan to use a few Moderators I made out of carbon fiber tubes , I am sure I will upgrade pretty soon, Short is good, Fat is OK as long as you can still use sights , Light weight is king..
Mike

Will do. I will be selling these on my website (bettertrigger.com). The weight of the V1 4.25” variant shown here is 100 grams. For comparison, the DonnyFL Fatboy in the same length weighs 193 according to my scale.

 

[IMADMAN]

Will do. I will be selling these on my website (bettertrigger.com). The weight of the V1 4.25” variant shown here is 100 grams. For comparison, the DonnyFL Fatboy in the same length weighs 193 according to my scale.

Will it be user serviceable?

 

[TeslaToTheMoon]

Will it be user serviceable?

It is a single piece 3D print with a threaded insert, so the best you’d likely be able to do is toss it in an ultrasonic cleaner in hot water and roll it around a few times/stand it upright for a portion of the ultrasonic cleaning to allow the lead debris to make its way out through the threaded insert end. I wouldn’t suggest using the built in heating though, since I’ve tried that with H&N slugs and melted about half of them, lead definitely has a higher melting point than ASA.

I have managed to clip the final baffle of one of my test suppressors when using .250 NSA slugs in the GK1, and that pretty much rendered in KIA, so you’ll definitely need to make sure you aren’t using anything that may be likely to have a wonky flight path like loose fitting slugs. I’ll be making all of these for .25 and reaming the bores out to 7mm (0.2755”) and for the first 25 I sell I’ll replace them for free in the event of a baffle strike or failure that renders the suppressor inoperable and make any design alterations as needed to address any issues that crop up, assuming there are any.

*Edit: The length of the suppressor that I got a baffle strike on was roughly 6.75” and it occurred on the last baffle at the end of the suppressor. I’ll post a picture of what that looked like at some point in an additional edit to this post some time later today.

**Edit #2: Finally added the pictures of the baffle strike.

 

[M0ist0ne]

Here's an alternative for people who already have an adapter similar to one of the male-male ones pictured below, you can thread it into this remix of @-Ricochet- 's model of the factory adapter. This allows the plastic part to be a lot beefier while also being reinforced by the stronger metal adapter. This one hasn't failed on me and I don't think it is going to unless I beat on it.


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Well done design! No support needed internally, brilliant!

 

[Jimcking]

The gun has always had what I consider to be a hair trigger. It does not go off when safety is on and does not go off when banging it.

Lately it has started sometimes firing multiple pellets from one trigger pull. I know there are two adjustments for the trigger. Anyone know which one to try and which way to turn it to possibly stop this? Thought it might just be a twitchy trigger finger.

Thanks,

Jim K.

 

[Ezana4CE]

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Great looking setup there. This looks very promising.

 

[-Ricochet-]

@Jimcking

Maybe this can help, assuming the action is similar to K1 in this regard:

GK - adjusting the trigger on K1

 

[Pale_Rider]

@Jimcking your second stage is likely to blame and is set too light. This can lead to the huben going full auto if set light enough.

The screw to the left is the second stage tensioning screw. Turn that in a quarter turn at a time until it doesn’t fire multiple times.

 

[TeslaToTheMoon]

I know what I’m trying with my trigger pretty soon.

@Jimcking your second stage is likely to blame and is set too light. This can lead to the huben going full auto if set light enough.

The screw to the left is the second stage tensioning screw. Turn that in a quarter turn at a time until it doesn’t fire multiple times.

 

[lbc_PSI]

I’m waiting for someone to make an offset moderator so the iron sights can be useable. That one will sell like hot cakes if it works well. Unfortunately my skills are more caveman like, but hey sometimes it works.

You could probably mod a Leshiy Classic extension. It would end up being ~4”

 

[Jimcking]

@Jimcking your second stage is likely to blame and is set too light. This can lead to the huben going full auto if set light enough.

The screw to the left is the second stage tensioning screw. Turn that in a quarter turn at a time until it doesn’t fire multiple times.

Thanks for all the help on this guys. I turned both trigger adjustment screws 1/4 turn clockwise and it works great now. Thanks again for all of the answers on this.

Jim K.

 

[Genob]

Manage to get my Ruger 10-22 Docter sight base on yesterday and mounted advance optics micro dot. Wow I'm loving this more and more. getting 1-1/2" groups at 30 yards with my old eyes, yes I rested the tank on sand bag. Had to repurpose one of my Dewalt tool bag as it won't fit the oem case with the micro dot.

 

[FLgunner]

How do you have that Micro-Dot mounted? Looks great!

 

[Genob]

How do you have that Micro-Dot mounted? Looks great!

On the back I use the rear sight elevation screw, only longer. on the front you have to remove the dowel pin to locate the shroud. I tried using small vice grip but keep slipping off, finally I clamped it to my milling vice ( gun upside down) and while pulling on the grip I wiggle the grip and it came off easy. I then installed the barrel shroud tight and tapped the slut for M3. Only other issue was torx screw on top of the action, I had mill a clearance hole for it. You can drill it with 1/4" drill and it will be good.