25 yards 5 shot groups & 19 shots. My top row was best. All the flyers were me. This gun is capable of some very good accuracy. I got it set for 850 with .22 Hades. My biggest complaint/only is how hard it is to open & close the cylinder lever. You need to be careful not to let the lever slip from your fat fingers.
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My bad.

Thanks. Looks like these could definitely work. One option would be to heat them up and melt into place. Anyway, I've included the .stl for the adapter for anyone that would like to try it. I'm thiking that PCTG would be a good material for this unless it's printed at an angle. Use at your own risk..

View attachment GK1-Adapter_V3.zip
 
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@steve-l Good and valid points, in general. I'll just add two things. Alignment would be an issue on a longer part. This one is practically self aligning due to the fact that it's almost completely enclosed by the shroud. That is of course if your 3D printer is working correctly and does what it's supposed to. Normally they print quite straight objects. And several big manufacturers produce 3D printed parts, including suppressors for much more powerful weapons. You'd be surprised how tough some of these materials are. I am of course not referring to cheap PLA etc. But as always, use common sense. If something doesn't look or feel right, don't use it.
 
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I caution the use of these in this application. Not because they are not good or do not work, but maintaining barrel alignment and unit concentricity would be very difficult if not impossible. Further, as stated before in other threads, most 3D plastics just don't cut it for either strength or stability.
My test moderators are running on 100 FPE 30 cals now. PETG with a wall thickness around 2.5mm. I do encapsulate them in a CF tube.
 
3d printed mods have their place; just not on the muzzle of this finely built pistol. Besides the lack of precision compared to a CNC metal part, it seems sacrilege to put a cheap 3d printed plastic mod on this pistol. Like putting some cheap Walmart tires on a Ferrari. Sure it will work but it just ain’t right. Luckily for us, Ares tactical is selling mod adapters made from good ol Aluminum.

Another problem with 3d printing is it’s not as simple as upload a file and hit print. For instance, printing with PETG can be tricky if you have too fast print speed or fan speed. 3d printing/ designing are skills that must be honed in order to make precision parts. I own a 3d printer but like many am just a hobbyist and have not mastered it enough to have confidence that I can produce a part as precise as a CNC’d alum part.
 
3d printed mods have their place; just not on the muzzle of this finely built pistol. Besides the lack of precision compared to a CNC metal part, it seems sacrilege to put a cheap 3d printed plastic mod on this pistol. Like putting some cheap Walmart tires on a Ferrari. Sure it will work but it just ain’t right. Luckily for us, Ares tactical is selling mod adapters made from good ol Aluminum.

Another problem with 3d printing is it’s not as simple as upload a file and hit print. For instance, printing with PETG can be tricky if you have too fast print speed or fan speed. 3d printing/ designing are skills that must be honed in order to make precision parts. I own a 3d printer but like many am just a hobbyist and have not mastered it enough to have confidence that I can produce a part as precise as a CNC’d alum part.
My 3d printed moderators are impressing my test shooters with their accuracy.

IOW my 3d printed moderators will shoot with the best machined moderators.

Perhaps it's more of a design issue than you realize?

The only place that machined aluminum has an advantage is in durability. It gives up that advantage in the form of weight/performance.

That's an opinion. But it's an informed opinion.

I do agree that 3D printing is a skill. Some plastics are harder to work with than others. PETG is not the only plastic suitable for use in moderators. I like it and I tend to use it but PLA can easily be made to work for baffles and internal parts.

It's all about design and implementation. Material is a distant second.
 
My 3d printed moderators are impressing my test shooters with their accuracy.

IOW my 3d printed moderators will shoot with the best machined moderators.

Perhaps it's more of a design issue than you realize?

The only place that machined aluminum has an advantage is in durability. It gives up that advantage in the form of weight/performance.

That's an opinion. But it's an informed opinion.

I do agree that 3D printing is a skill. Some plastics are harder to work with than others. PETG is not the only plastic suitable for use in moderators. I like it and I tend to use it but PLA can easily be made to work for baffles and internal parts.

It's all about design and implementation. Material is a distant second.
Machined aluminum does work better with the correct internals and also longevity. Neil Clague for example are much more effective over a 3d printed design. A closer comparison is my tester and a Tanto, Tanto is much quieter.
 
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Machined aluminum does work better with the correct internals and also longevity. Neil Clague for example are much more effective over a 3d printed design.
This I believe is an opinion. Pretty much just like my own opinion stated above.

I'm just saying that testing shows that a 3D printed moderator can perform at the same level as any other product on the market and be as light or lighter than any other product on the market and they can cost half as much and be profitable.

Your mileage may vary in your opinion is certainly as valid as anybody else's.
 
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My 3d printed moderators are impressing my test shooters with their accuracy.

IOW my 3d printed moderators will shoot with the best machined moderators.

Perhaps it's more of a design issue than you realize?

The only place that machined aluminum has an advantage is in durability. It gives up that advantage in the form of weight/performance.

That's an opinion. But it's an informed opinion.

I do agree that 3D printing is a skill. Some plastics are harder to work with than others. PETG is not the only plastic suitable for use in moderators. I like it and I tend to use it but PLA can easily be made to work for baffles and internal parts.

It's all about design and implementation. Material is a distant second.
Well OldSpook you are at a skill level above many 3d printing amateurs, like myself.

However, true as it is that you can produce a 3d printed mod that is concentric to the bore and can withstand the pressure of each shot; it still is just plastic as the end of the day. petg is just not ideal as a moderator. The lack of durability compromises the longevity of the recess that holds the EZ threaded insert. It is inevitable and probable that the gun will drop or get banged up every now and then. Eventually that petg will crack at the location where the threaded inserted is installed.

*Aluminum is pretty dang light and in this application is a negligible difference compared to the weight of petg. Being the part is so small. Maybe a few grams difference

@OldSpook you should be printing in ABS if you want a strong plastic. Maybe ever carbon fiber reinforced plastic
 
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Well OldSpook you are at a skill level above many 3d printing amateurs, like myself.

However, true as it is that you can produce a 3d printed mod that is concentric to the bore and can withstand the pressure of each shot; it still is just plastic as the end of the day. And petg being even weaker than PLA is not ideal as a moderator. The lack of durability compromises the longevity of the recess that holds the EZ threaded insert. It is inevitable and probable that the gun will drop or get banged up every now and then. Eventually that petg will crack at the location where the threaded inserted is installed.

*Aluminum is pretty dang light and in this application is a negligible difference compared to the weight of petg. Being the part is so small. Maybe a few grams difference

@OldSpook you should be printing in ABS if you want a strong plastic. Maybe ever carbon fiber reinforced plastic

petg-v-pla.jpg

I appreciate your kind words. The reason that I lean heavily on PETG is actually the UV resistance.

You are absolutely right. The durability of aluminum is far superior to plastic, any plastic other than PERHAPS some a resin print plastics. I don't really know. @bigHUN knows a whole lot more about that than I do. He would be the one to ask.

I'm not saying a fine pistol does not deserve a finely built moderator, either. Some do. If you are going to drop hundreds of bucks on a shooter; another hundred and a half is really not that much. I feel the same about optics. Someday, someone, will print an optic, It will be cheap as dirt. I wont be interested. But you see;, optics are not regulated in this country, moderators UNFORTUNATELY are, that means we need to be able to say UNEQUIVOCALLY "This moderator is not designed to be used on a firearm." Plastic says that very clearly. Aluminum may well say that, while someone is running it on a PB. So there is that issue as well.

I've got several moderators, among them a Tatsu which I really like. Donny makes a fantastic product at his price point. Unfortunately he is still wrestling with some sort of problem which, most likely, has very little to do with anything he did wrong. Plastic avoids that.

To each his own, but printed mods CAN BE (present market examples generally EXCLUDED) as accurate and as quiet as the best machined moderators on the market and they can look good too.

BUT TO YOUR CREDIT ~ DONT DROP YOUR GUN. The aluminum will likely hold or be repairable. The pl;astic not so much.:)
 
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In this case, we are talking power. 3d printer works for low power, but once it gets past certain levels it is not an option. Who wants a sweet ass pistol or rifle and then put on a soda can or paint can in plastic, instead of an also sleek just as effective smaller machined unit.
How much power does this pistol develop?

You are right though it would be a bear to build something that could run on a 357 or 45 or even larger. I wouldn't do it. I just built one for a .30 and TBH it was a PITA. It is the size of a Huma (MODEL 50 Standard) and damned heavy at 256 grams. I believe the Huma costs $255 and weighs 311 grams. It goes without saying I would not even mention it, If I didn't think it was as accurate as the Huma. I will put 4 to 1 that it is also quieter than the Huma because the tester to whom it is going j;ust tested one with one less baffle in it and says he thinks that one MIGHT be quieter than the Huma. That one is about 180mm long and weighs 30 grams less than this one. This one won't be as durable as the Huma for sure but you could buy two of mine for the price of the Huma so...

I'm going to stick that monster on my Condor this afternoon for grits and shiggles and maybe I'll post some pics. I doubt seriously that I will ever make another one. Like I said, it was a PITA. ;)
 
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Just to clarify. My goal with this adapter was to give a temporary solution until the original adapter is delivered to you free of charge from Huben. I make parts out of aluminum too, for applications that require that.

In summary, If you believe that a milled adapter is going to serve you better for a few months then definitely get that instead. As a bonus you'll have one spare 😉

I seriously thought that some would benefit from this after reading all the posts about how loud GK1 is. Oh well.
 
I think its less about power the gun itself makes, rather how inefficiently it does it, and how much energy remains in the AIR instead of going into the projectile as it suddenly leaves the muzzle ... fwiw that figure could easily be 6x the energy that is behind the projectile (in this pistols instance, most pcps are closer to 3-4). So really you're building a moderator to withstand not 60-80 fpe, but rather a 300-480 fpe blast of air behind the 60-80 fpe projectile...

-Matt
 
I think its less about power the gun itself makes, rather how inefficiently it does it, and how much energy remains in the AIR instead of going into the projectile as it suddenly leaves the muzzle ... fwiw that figure could easily be 6x the energy that is behind the projectile (in this pistols instance, most pcps are closer to 3-4). So really you're building a moderator to withstand not 60-80 fpe, but rather a 300-480 fpe blast of air behind the 60-80 fpe projectile...

-Matt
Well then I guess I am building them to withstand the 300-500 FPE muzzle blast as I am getting that part done now. :) Since we can't actually measure that without a lot of additional instrumentation talking in FPE greatly simplifies the discussion between people building moderators. KWIM?:rolleyes:

Hey Bubba, I have this enormously inefficient muzzle loading 50 cal air rifle. It generates 500 FPE but I'm guessing I am throwing more like 3000 FPE through the moderator, can you build that out of plastic for me ;) (Prolly not) or (Sure do you have a wheel barrow to carry it?)
 
Well then I guess I am building them to withstand the 300-500 FPE muzzle blast as I am getting that part done now. :) Since we can't actually measure that without a lot of additional instrumentation talking in FPE greatly simplifies the discussion between people building moderators. KWIM?:rolleyes:

Hey Bubba, I have this enormously inefficient muzzle loading 50 cal air rifle. It generates 500 FPE but I'm guessing I am throwing more like 3000 FPE through the moderator, can you build that out of plastic for me ;) (Prolly not) or (Sure do you have a wheel barrow to carry it?)

It's simple to measure it without instrumentation, most physics is observed via math first and foremost before instrumentation if any instruments are developed to observe it... such as gas laws...take your attitude elsewhere.

-Matt
 
It's simple to measure it without instrumentation, most physics is observed via math first and foremost before instrumentation if any instruments are developed to observe it... such as gas laws...take your attitude elsewhere.

-Matt
Bahahhah Thanks for the education, Matt you done tutoring me?
 
I got mine from Kelly today shot a few rounds through it in the basement trying to get a fps reading but the FX pocket chrony wasn't reading so I'll have to setup my labradar or pro chrono when I get back home Tuesday from visiting family in Branson, mine is number 51, I love how lite it is and it does have a great trigger.
 
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