Huben k1 before and after barrel polish

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Asher said:
Yes there's residual swage lube on my slugs

Emu do you speak from experience with a huben k1 of your own?
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I do not have a HUBEN K1, but I have made same procedure of option 1 to other of my rifles. And worked perfectly.

Two improvements to share.

1.- Recrown on the barrel of my Daystate Woverine HP HR. 25 Cal. I decided to recrown the barrel of this rifle and the accuracy became insane at 100 yards. 2.- Made wider the entrance of the projectile to the barrel of my Bantam sniper. I change the barrel to my Bantam Sniper HR. 25 Cal...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Emu said:
I worked at a barrel manufacturer for a bit. And learned a lil bit. In my youth I ruined a shieln chrome Molly barrel by lapping it wrong way. I had money then and just bought Benchmark premium lapped bench rest barrels. Yes they were great like shiny mirror inside. Now I have a Texan 50 cal. 34 inch lother Walter barrel. My barrel was horrible rough you could see machine marks on the lands. 3\4 down the barrel was a huge ring that was a lead trap. Powder coating my slugs or lubricant didn't really fix it. I wanted a perfect premium barrel but at$475.00 now I couldn't afford. I have a the lead pots for casting my own slugs so hand lapping the right way with multiple poured lead laps was now possible. I watched a pod cast of BRUX premium rifle barrels they actually explained there lapping process. They start at 100 grit lapping compound and work up from there. I probably poured at least 5 laps and I started at 120 grit valve lapping compound. I could feel the rough spots easily and would work them out. I did this in steps than with220 grit compound and 320 and then finally 420 grit compound. My lother Walter barrel was terrible rough it would only shoot if you cleaned it properly every 3 rounds. After my lead lapping procedure it is now like the premium bench rest barrels I was used to my youth. If your barrels rough JB won't take out tooling marks. I just used cleaning brushes to make my lead laps with. Pretty easy. There's some good videos o. You tube on hand lapping. Any questions ask. Have a nice day friends
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I recrown the barrels of my rifles with this tip and the drill:
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I will consider this. I was wondering if the baffles in the shroud are doing something too. I may take the shroud or at least the baffles out and see what happens. Next time I have it apart I will take a look at the crown and see if it seems rough. When I polished the barrel with the non embedding jb, I did feel it get smoother. Looking down it, it seems to be pretty dang good
 
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Legionair said:
I would reconsider using a hand drill to do any barrel work unless it was a cheap crosman barrel. If you want to shoot slugs more accurately put an unchoked barrel on there. The stock barrel does best with pellets
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You know, that is what I heard with regards to my .25 huben. I had Kelly put a TJ unchoked barrel on it for that reason. It was terrible with slugs. Had him send me the stock barrel, and after putting it on it did much better.

I don't understand it either
 
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I have polished many barrels, never really to improve accuracy, it was to make it easier to clean as I am a slug shooter.

Accuracy with slugs can only come from a .001 over groove diameter fit between slug and groove diameter. I have preached this for years to mostly deaf ears, but still wouldbe slug shooters want to just throw money at a fix that will only work by accidentally stumbling on the correct diameter.

I used Corbin staging die’s for over 25 years, to buy a Corbin setup without knowing your groove diameter for Dave Corbin to set it up is a horrible waste of money.

Regards,

Roachcreek
 
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Roachcreek said:
I have polished many barrels, never really to improve accuracy, it was to make it easier to clean as I am a slug shooter.

Accuracy with slugs can only come from a .001 over groove diameter fit between slug and groove diameter. I have preached this for years to mostly deaf ears, but still wouldbe slug shooters want to just throw money at a fix that will only work by accidentally stumbling on the correct diameter.

I used Corbin staging die’s for over 25 years, to buy a Corbin setup without knowing your groove diameter for Dave Corbin to set it up is a horrible waste of money.

Regards,

Roachcreek
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Thanks for the information. Looking to make my own swaging dies in a couple of months. Did you ever notice a difference in flat base or dish base slugs? I'm thinking a dish base might offer a slightly better seal?
 
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Correct slug to groove -diameter will seal better and shoot better.

Knifemaker, who I introduced into casting, determined that a flat base was a better option. There are no clear advantage to me in using boattail bullets, the are harder to cast without a trailing fin on the base to make it worthwhile, but those into graphs will disagree.

Airguns will move lead down the barrel, but lack the power to increase the diameter of the slugs on firing.

I have at times when ordering a mold, sent a slug that I slugged the barrel with just to reduce error in measuring between my calipers and the mold maker.

R C
 
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Roachcreek said:
Correct slug to groove -diameter will seal better and shoot better.

Knifemaker, who I introduced into casting, determined that a flat base was a better option. There are no clear advantage to me in using boattail bullets, the are harder to cast without a trailing fin on the base to make it worthwhile, but those into graphs will disagree.

Airguns will move lead down the barrel, but lack the power to increase the diameter of the slugs on firing.

I have at times when ordering a mold, sent a slug that I slugged the barrel with just to reduce error in measuring between my calipers and the mold maker.

R C
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RC, thanks for the reply. I have no interest in casting except to cast plugs to swage into slugs. LOL It will be easy enough to experiment with making cup based, dish based, or flat based slugs once I determine the the proper OD and get the forming die made.

Ken
 
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Legionair said:
I would reconsider using a hand drill to do any barrel work unless it was a cheap crosman barrel. If you want to shoot slugs more accurately put an unchoked barrel on there. The stock barrel does best with pellets
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I bought the LW barrel to replace the original one that had a very bad accuracy.

I took the new one to machine it and made it fit in the Bantam. Precisely. So I am not afraid of working with the barrels. They just need to fit precisely.

1667842098423.jpeg

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Roachcreek said:
I have polished many barrels, never really to improve accuracy, it was to make it easier to clean as I am a slug shooter.

Accuracy with slugs can only come from a .001 over groove diameter fit between slug and groove diameter. I have preached this for years to mostly deaf ears, but still wouldbe slug shooters want to just throw money at a fix that will only work by accidentally stumbling on the correct diameter.

I used Corbin staging die’s for over 25 years, to buy a Corbin setup without knowing your groove diameter for Dave Corbin to set it up is a horrible waste of money.

Regards,

Roachcreek
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Yes in hindsight I agree. At least I went too big and can fix with a sizer. To be fair, I had Dave Corbin try to match the diameter of the huben slugs I used to make with their crappy swage die. Their slugs were much different though, being essentially a boat tail with a wider driving band on them. So yes I should've tested more before having a die made but at least I didn't make this mistake again with my .25 cal
 
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Yeah, I have the MPMolds 25 cal 8 cavity that I am told was made for the Huban. I bought it for my Kratos but since getting the Bighorn, I/it prefers the MPMolds .252.

I hardly ever buy cast bullets unless I am interested in testing the design to see if I want a mold made. The AVS .254 bullets are the way to go if your groove diameter is .251 to .254 and you size them to what your groove diameter is. I bought some recently and found them slower due to the difference in bearing surface, but still for a non-caster they should be the ticket.

Bottom line you really need to slug your barrel before you buy.

RC
 
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Roachcreek said:
Yeah, I have the MPMolds 25 cal 8 cavity that I am told was made for the Huban. I bought it for my Kratos but since getting the Bighorn, I/it prefers the MPMolds .252.

I hardly ever buy cast bullets unless I am interested in testing the design to see if I want a mold made. The AVS .254 bullets are the way to go if your groove diameter is .251 to .254 and you size them to what your groove diameter is. I bought some recently and found them slower due to the difference in bearing surface, but still for a non-caster they should be the ticket.

Bottom line you really need to slug your barrel before you buy.

RC
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Well, I didn't slug my .25 huben barrel before buying the .254 die that i have on the way but I did do more extensive testing with different diameters, and found the .254s to be the best by far. I did however slug my challenger bullpup barrel and found it to be closer to .46 than .457. You can't really find air gun slugs in this diameter for sale but thankfully I was able to get a .460 die made that's on the way. Also ordered a sizer to reduce to .457 for my don cothran. What's interesting is that the challenger is fairly accurate with the .457s. Here's hoping it's even better once I start making the .46s
 
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Emu said:
I bought the LW barrel to replace the original one that had a very bad accuracy.

I took the new one to machine it and made it fit in the Bantam. Precisely. So I am not afraid of working with the barrels. They just need to fit precisely.

View attachment 303618
View attachment 303619
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When you said drill I thought you meant hand drill. You have the right machine for barrel work sir👍
 
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Asher said:
You know, that is what I heard with regards to my .25 huben. I had Kelly put a TJ unchoked barrel on it for that reason. It was terrible with slugs. Had him send me the stock barrel, and after putting it on it did much better.

I don't understand it either
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The TJ barrel is .250, were you still using .254 slugs? Or did you get the custom mag for .250 slugs?

*if you were using the correct .250-.251 slugs in the TJ barrel with the stock mag that would explain the terrible accuracy as you know the .250 slugs would be loose in the stock mag and negatively affect accuracy
 
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