"How to tune" RAW HM1000X LRT guide or video?

In back of the receiver you use an allen wrench counter clockwise to lessen the power and clockwise to increase bit they do come perfectly tuned straight from the factory. There's no guarantee it's going to be more accurate if you increase the power because they shoot perfect from the factory. 

You can remove the regulator to get more power and fill to 3000psi instead.
 
If I remember correctly, many of the RAW HM1000X LRT are tuned for the 25.39gr pellets. If you want to adjust the gun, you have to take the stock off to adjust the regulator. If you don’t have a regulator tester, you have to just adjust the regulator a little at a time and go by the velocity and then fine tune up or down with the hammer spring. The hammer spring adjustment is at the rear of the action. Clockwise tightens the spring, counterclockwise loosens it. Shoot over the chronograph to get a baseline velocity, give the HS a couple turns, shoot another group and so on. When the accuracy is where you want it, leave it alone. Those are the only two adjustments but they’re all you need. If you crank the hammer spring too much, it gets pretty harsh to shoot. Ours shoots the 33.95gr JSB’s best right around 900-910fps. It’s not real finicky though, it’s a great shooter.

Stoti
 
It’s exactly the same process as tuning an impact.



The hammer cap alters the spring tension thereby increasing or decreasing the force the hammer its the valve. However, there is only a limit of velocity adjustment unless you also adjust the reg pressure.

so...back the hammer,p cap out, take a shot making a note of the velocity. Slowly screw the hammer adjuster in, as more hammer spring load is applied the velocity should increase. At some point the velocity will plateau, that is the maximum power the gun will give at that reg pressure. Ideally that maximum power should be about 20fps faster than the velocity you would like to shoot, you then back off the hammer until you achieve your ideal. If the maximum is more than about 50fps faster then you should reduce the reg pressure slightly. If the maximum is less than what you would like then you will need to increase the reg pressure.

If you want to alter the power massively say form 50 down to 12pfe or from 12 up to 50fpe then you will almost certainly need to fit a different strength/length hammer spring and you may also need to look at the port size in eith the barrel or the top port of the valve, or you may need alter the orientation of the Belleville washers. For lower reg pressures the washers (depending on the thickness as newer raw fit thicker washers) the stack would look like this(())(())(()) for higher reg pressure the stack would be like this ((()))((()))

Its not difficult but it’s a bit of a faff because you have to remove the block from the stock but you can’t do that with the bottle attached, and once you have set it all up perfectly you have to take the bottle back off to fit it back into the stock.



The rapid 7 owners club R7OC it the place to get technical help and advice on all things Rapid and RAW related.


For what it’s worth, I have had an impact, it’s really easy to make adjustment on velocity/power. It is more of a faff with the RAW but I have never been able to get anywhere near the consistency of a RAW with the impact.



Bb


 
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i picked up a RAW reg tester from ROWAN ENGINEERING U,K IF IT HELPS,,Good luck HYNZIE 4Ss

This is a cheap and effective method 



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Bb
 
I just love this forum and appreciate the creator, the moderators, and most of all, the members very much.

The insight and advice given on the response posts is not only incredibly informative, but very useful.

This morning, after reviewing all of your posts, I removed the stock and patiently made some much needed trigger adjustments, not any fault of Ken Hick's at SPAW, but because not long after receiving it, I played with the adjustments and messed them up, turning it into a single stage trigger, and had never taken the time to fix it. I now have it nearly perfect with a slight first stage and a very crisp and clean second stage break.

After reassembling the rifle, I verified that the FPS was exactly what I thought, and an average of about 874, and proceeded to sight the rifle back in using my 18 yard indoor range after having had the stock off. It was off about an inch.

I then followed all of your input, and changed the power setting until I reached an average of 908, with an SD of 4, and an ES of 6, for a 10 shot group.

I then took it out and began to work with it on my outdoor range - at my maximum available distance of 87 yards. The results were pretty incredible.

Image 1 is a target I shot last week while comparing the JSB King Heavies to the new FX Hybrid Slug. You can see that the average group size was +/- 1.75".

Image 2 is the last target shot this morning after all of my adjustments, and before I headed off to work. With the flyer, it is 1.21" C-t-C, without the one flyer, it is about 9/10ths of an inch.

Thanks so much, guys. Your help is truly appreciated.

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Assuming you are going to stay in the HP power range, you should not need to touch the reg, Martin set it up right. The spring tension is the only fine tuning you should need to make. If you go to a power range requiring a different spring, then you will likely need to change or adjust the regulator. I've done that on my standard power RAW. It's not difficult, but without a reg tester it is tedious, as it usually requires several dis-assemblies and adjustments. 
 
Finding the ideal regulator setting for your pellet or slug.

My idea , adjust the regulator to its highest setting 230/250 bar and get the gun's bottle pressure to a level that would normally be “off” the regulator. Then tether the gun to your tank using a dual regulator like the Regman 2.0 y Air Tanks Plus (https://airtanksplus.com/product/regman2-external-pcp-airgun-regulator/) and controlling the pressure from the Regman at a low pressure starting point holding a constant pressure of “x” as you shoot your projectiles making adjustments to the hammer and record your velocity and precision. If greater adjustment is needed, you can simply turn up the pressure on the Regman instead of removing the stock and making the regulator adjustment. Thoughts?
 
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You will hav a very very harsh shooting gun if u pull this off.
I question if the gun has the HS energy to even open the valve under that pressure.

Possibly you could remove the regulator in the gun. And tether at around 135-145 bar
Good point about max regulator pressure and the HS may not have sufficient energy to open the valve if the tank on the gun was fully pressurized. My thought was to max the regulator while having low to no pressure in the tank on the gun, then pressurizing it controlling the tank pressure with an external regulator like the Regman or RegBoy starting at a low pressure setting, say 130 bar and testing projectile performance/precision along with HS adjustments. Then return the HS spring to its original setting and increase the regulator pressure up say 10 bar and test again find the sweet pressure spots for your selected projectiles.

If the airgun regulator is removed, how do you pressurize the gun?
 
The raw regulator is unique in that u can pull the whole piston without adjusting the washer stack.

Now you can’t just remove the piston as then you would get air coming out the vent hole.

However, I’m wondering what would happen if you wouldn’t fully seat this assembly. Effectively not allowing the reg seal to contact the brass nipple. Thereby bypassing they regulator.

Not sure if this is the best advice I’ve ever given. :)
But if you’re wanting try this…I could test the idea on my end.

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In back of the receiver you use an allen wrench counter clockwise to lessen the power and clockwise to increase bit they do come perfectly tuned straight from the factory. There's no guarantee it's going to be more accurate if you increase the power because they shoot perfect from the factory.

You can remove the regulator to get more power and fill to 3000psi instead.
Just curious, I have a .30 RAW shooting 70fpe. If I take note of the exact power adjustment, and I wind it in to try higher power setting, how much more power might be available? Just as an experiment.