How to separate pellets from ductseal?

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I think you pretty much nailed it.

dirty jobs.1617629604.jpg

 
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I layer mine with fiberglass cloth. Allows it to be peeled apart ( mostly) to 1” slabs.. Makes it easier to grab the lead. Much of it gets caught at the cloth too. Mine is 6” ( 6 slabs) thick with fiberglass cloth between each layer, plus one on the front which makes targets easy to mount. 

Maybe roll it like a noodle? Bigger lead might stick out and make removal easier. 


 
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When I built my pellet trap, I used a steel plate tilted at 45 degrees to deflect the pellets into an old blanket for easy retrieval. Used construction adhesive to glue a piece of drywall to the back of the steel plate, very little noise due to the drywall deadening the ring, much easier to retrieve the smashed pellets. Couldnt afford the ductseal for my trap that is 36" x 78" opening, yea it is a big one!
 
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@AirShot,

I think that I am going to go back to the 45 degree steel plate style of trap. I made one when I bought my FWB 124 and foolishly sold it.

I like your idea of using drywall for sound deadening, the trap that I made had 2 inches of dry sand behind the steel. The sand worked well but the trap was pretty heavy. 

The one thing that worked for killing the energy on the pellet was adding a 1/8 inch thick steel plate that was "leaned" (and secured) against the 45 degree back plate. The pellet would hit the back plate, slide down along it to hit the 1/8 inch "shear plate" and tear itself into curly fragments that would fall into the bottom of the trap.

Hank 
 
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Thanks for the input guys!

Looks like the lead is lost as I don't think that trying to melt it with ductseal on it would be a good idea. 

It might be possible to clean the ductseal though. Was thinking about drilling some 1/8" holes in a piece of iron plumbing pipe, putting a wad of used ductseal in the pipe and using a close fitting wooden dowel as a ram to compress ductseal and extrude it out through the small holes. I have a bottle jack (or an electric log splitter :) ) to apply the force. 

Cheers, 

Hank 
 
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Thanks for the input guys!

Looks like the lead is lost as I don't think that trying to melt it with ductseal on it would be a good idea. 

It might be possible to clean the ductseal though. Was thinking about drilling some 1/8" holes in a piece of iron plumbing pipe, putting a wad of used ductseal in the pipe and using a close fitting wooden dowel as a ram to compress ductseal and extrude it out through the small holes. I have a bottle jack (or an electric log splitter :) ) to apply the force. 

Cheers, 

Hank
Click to expand...


I was referring to melting the ductseal, not the lead. 

GsT
 
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@Moog,

Interesting, what power airguns are you using with your trap?

I ask because as kids we used to hang a couple of flannel blankets (a few inches apart) to stop pellets and BBs from our low power (350 fps and less) airguns (and also our slingshots) when shooting indoors during the winter. The soft, light, blanket would move with the pellet and absorb the energy. 


 
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@Moog,

Interesting, what power airguns are you using with your trap?

I ask because as kids we used to hang a couple of flannel blankets (a few inches apart) to stop pellets and BBs from our low power (350 fps and less) airguns (and also our slingshots) when shooting indoors during the winter. The soft, light, blanket would move with the pellet and absorb the energy. 

Click to expand...

I mostly shoot my break barrel rifles in .177 and .22 caliber into the trap at ranges usually from 25 to 50 yards. The rifles are just over 15 fpe.

It's interesting that the pellets don't tear up the blankets and sheets. It's the way you described it. The material just moves with the pellets and does not get torn.
 
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Its listed as synthetic polymers and oils with trace minerals as its makeup. I wonder if you couldnt dilute it and turn it to liquid with some type of cheap oil? If you can get it liquid enough then you should be able to have the lead fall out. Obviously you are going to lose your duct seal doing this but it sounds easier than picking out 15,000 pellets with pliers. 

 
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If you want an easier to recover pellet trap... I use a big cardboard box filled with DRY dirt. I have it surrounded by a box made of 2X4's just in case, and have a square of outdoor carpet in the back of the box before the wood. I've never had a pellet hit the carpet let alone wood. When you shoot, the dirt moves on impact and stops the round, then falls back down and covers up the "wound channel" so to speak. If you use wet dirt, it will not fall back down and you'll shoot through your trap in a few shots. I bet sand would work but would make lead recovery difficult. I havent tried anything crazy powerful in this, but it handles 30FPE at 7yds just fine. 

For lead recovery, I just dump the whole thing in a large tub and fill it with water. I let the mixture sit overnight while stirring it a few times. Then you can scoop the bottom up with a metal screen of sorts (I use a kitchen strainer from the dollar store) and sort out all of the pellets and rocks from your mix. The mix of lead/rocks/debris gets laid out to dry, and then put in a COOL cast iron pot and heated with a propane burner until melted. Pick out the big rocks or they will explode. Never ever put this sort of stuff in melted lead, unless you want to see a really cool explosion. Basically this is exactly how you recover lead rounds from a shooting range. 
 
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