How to push your CF tank pressure to 4500 psi w/o pushing your compressor to it

So lets be honest, whether you're using a Yong Heng, a DAVV, an Air Venturi, (etc) to fill your CF dive tank, they all by and large operate the same way, and are susceptible to the same issues. Those little compressors operate under a tremendous load. And the harder you push them, the more likely a failure. Some of the compressors say they are designed to fill up to 4500 psi, but in the same sentence they will say 300 BAR. Which is actually 4351 psi, not 4500 psi. Some compressors will say 310 BAR, which is a true 4500 psi. However, to push pressure beyond that is a risky endeavor. Can the compressor do it.... Yes. But for how long? In pushing mine to extreme pressures (beyond manufacturer recommendations), I've had failures. And there's nothing more frustrating waiting 3-4 weeks for parts from China to arrive in order to fix it. So the following is my personal experimentation on how to achieve max pressure in your CF tank without pushing your compressor to it's limits. The less strain you can put on the compressor, the longer it will last. I have no problem pushing my compressor to 4500 psi. It's a DAVV 2 stage compressor. But I don't like to push it beyond 4500. But there are guys on here who may not like to push their compressors beyond 4100 or 4200 psi. What is I told you there's a way to get 4500 psi in your CF tank only pushing your compressor to 4100 or 4200 psi? Let me explain.

The air in that CF tank is under tremendous pressure. Have you ever noticed that if you store the tank in a cold environment, the pressure gauge will drop? This is because the cold air increases on the exterior of the tank increases the density of the air inside the tank as it cools. This is the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics as it pertains to equilibrium. As the air heats up, it expands. As it cools, it becomes more dense and contracts. So this is what I do. I've attached pictures for you to see. I'm confident I can push my compressor to 4500 psi, but if you don't want to push yours that high, then that's perfectly fine. It's entirely up to you.

The first picture is the starting pressure on the tank. The angle is weird, but it's 4500 psi on the dot. This was after filling the tank to 4500 psi in a 60-70 degree environment, letting it settle, and topping it off to ensure it was locked in at 4500 psi. It's very important this step be done in a room temperature environment for consistent fill pressure:

Tank 1.1609173033.jpg


Next picture is how to get the air to become more dense before adding more air. I stuck my tank in a small trashcan, filled it with ice, added water to make a slushy slurry, and left it sitting for 20-25 minutes:

Tank 2.1609173251.jpg


After 20-25 minutes, the pressure in the tank dropped from 4500 psi to about 4150 psi. This is confirmed on the gauge on the tank itself as well as the pressure gauge on the pump when it regulated with the pressure in the tank as I started to refill it. Leave your CF tank in the ice water the entire time your filling it back up. :

Tank 3.1609173353.jpg


Tank 4.1609173363.jpg


After topping back off to 4500 psi, I removed the CF tank from the ice bath, and set it in my normal storage spot in my garage at home. I live in San Diego, so my garage typically hovers between the low 60's and the low 70's. After the temperature of the air in the bottle equalized with the ambient temperature of the air in my garage, this is what the pressure gauge on the CF bottle read:

Tank 5.1609173548.jpg


Now to all the naysayers out there that are going to focus in on safety, the bottle is hydro-tested at 2x's the suggested storage pressure, and the burst disk on the valve assembly of the bottle is 6000 psi. I'm thinking the pressure is hovering at 4900-5000 psi after doing this. Easily within safe storage pressure. But if you pushed your compressor to 4200 psi, stuck the CF bottle in the ice bath for 30 minutes, dropped the pressure to 3800, then topped it back off to 4200 psi, when the air temp in the bottle equalized with the ambient air temp of your garage or house, the pressure would creep up to 4500-4600 psi. And you never pushed your compressor to the upper limits of it's capabilities.

It's just something I do to maximize the pressure in my bottle (i.e. I got 10 more top-off's on my air rifle by doing it this way). But if you think this is something you might like to try, I've shared it with the world.

My disclaimer is this however..... I'm not liable if you push your bottle too far. I recommend going no higher than 4500 psi on your compressor- EVER!








 
It has less to do with getting the extra shots and more to do with getting longevity from your compressor. The extra fills are just a positive byproduct. Most guys fill their tanks the night before they go shooting. If you have 2 CF tanks, you can put them both in the ice bath at the same time. To top them off after chilling them takes 10-12 minutes each. But you'll get 8-10 extra top-off's per tank by doing this. Plus (and most importantly) you didn't have to push your compressor past 4200 psi.
 
This is not an uncommon thing. I've seen it at most dragstrips I've been to when staff is topping off nitrous tanks using booster pumps. They ice the tanks so that the booster pump doesn't have to work as hard. Same thing at work in a CF tank but I'm not sure how much you are gaining in compressor longevity. Possibly a noticeable amount but not sure. If you feel better doing it then no reason not to.
 
SAME Like people filling their PCPs all the way to 300BAR max fill rating I really cringe reading about it even if the manufacturer says it's rated to fill that high.

Sure they got a warranty but why even chance the leak or failure? You then end up paying out of pocket money for shipping and insurance when sending the gun and compressor back for warranty effectively adding to the initial cost of purchase and ownership price right there.
 
I agree with you Odoyle. But imagine filling your tank to 4000 psi, icing it down to get the pressure to drop to 3600 psi, then while the tank is still in the ice bath, topping it back off to 4000 psi. Then let it come up to the ambient temp of wherever you're storing it, and the pressure will magically rise to 4400 psi. You never pushed your compressor beyond 4000 psi, yet got 4400 psi of fillage from it.
 
I agree with you Odoyle. But imagine filling your tank to 4000 psi, icing it down to get the pressure to drop to 3600 psi, then while the tank is still in the ice bath, topping it back off to 4000 psi. Then let it come up to the ambient temp of wherever you're storing it, and the pressure will magically rise to 4400 psi. You never pushed your compressor beyond 4000 psi, yet got 4400 psi of fillage from it.

In theory, it might sound like a fantastic method of boosting without overstressing your compressor but I think that you will find that in practice you will struggle to see the results that you are expecting. When you try to top the tank off after chilling, the temperature inside it will climb fast enough to counter a fair amount of the chilling. There is merit in keeping the outer skin cool during the filling process and some dive shops submerge the bottles in a water tank whilst filling to avoid having to wait and top off. While some dive shops believe overfilling and letting the pressure drop to the required number after cooling is a better method. There is also the problem of having to buy ice unless you have an icemaker. Sorry to rain on your party but I think that you will find that filling to a lower pressure more often will be much more practical if you are worried about over-stressing your pump. Another thing, working a compressor or gun to its recommended maximum working pressure will not cause any problems. Do you think that a manufacturer would recommend practices that would invite warranty claims or bad reputations for the sake of bragging rights? There are always large safety margins engineered into HP devices.
 
I agree with you Odoyle. But imagine filling your tank to 4000 psi, icing it down to get the pressure to drop to 3600 psi, then while the tank is still in the ice bath, topping it back off to 4000 psi. Then let it come up to the ambient temp of wherever you're storing it, and the pressure will magically rise to 4400 psi. You never pushed your compressor beyond 4000 psi, yet got 4400 psi of fillage from it.

In theory, it might sound like a fantastic method of boosting without overstressing your compressor but I think that you will find that in practice you will struggle to see the results that you are expecting. When you try to top the tank off after chilling, the temperature inside it will climb fast enough to counter a fair amount of the chilling. There is merit in keeping the outer skin cool during the filling process and some dive shops submerge the bottles in a water tank whilst filling to avoid having to wait and top off. While some dive shops believe overfilling and letting the pressure drop to the required number after cooling is a better method. There is also the problem of having to buy ice unless you have an icemaker. Sorry to rain on your party but I think that you will find that filling to a lower pressure more often will be much more practical if you are worried about over-stressing your pump. Another thing, working a compressor or gun to its recommended maximum working pressure will not cause any problems. Do you think that a manufacturer would recommend practices that would invite warranty claims or bad reputations for the sake of bragging rights? There are always large safety margins engineered into HP devices.


Well, how about I keep experimenting with the aforementioned pressure settings? I've used the method twice now, and so far I'm 2 for 2. I understand that the air you're pushing into the bottle will somewhat compensate for the chilling (density) process, but each time I've used the method, regardless of whether the new air going into the tank was hot coming from the compressor, the result was identical. A 400 psi increase from the time I shut the pump off after filling the tank in the ice water bath, until the time it equalized with the ambient air temperature. I'm batting 1000 with the technique. I have 1 large CF dive tank. So when I take it out shooting with me, I need that thing to last me all day. Or I have to resort to hand pumping. And believe me, trying to hand pump a .5L CF bottle on an air rifle from 200 BAR to 260 BAR is ARDUOUS! Plus it gets your hear rate going, which reflects in your sighting in on targets downrange. The pumping heart beat can clearly be seen when peering through your scope. I'd rather use a large dive tank to top off.

Science by definition is formulating an hypothesis or theory based on observation, testing, and the ability to make predictions. I've tested, observed the results, and can predict with certainty that you will see an increase in the pressure in your CF bottle without stressing your compressor beyond where you feel comfortable pushing it. I have zero problems pushing my compressor to 4500 psi. It's when I get froggy and start pushing it to 4600 or 4700 that I encounter issues. That's why I won't fill past 4500. I feel comfortable doing this. But I covet the extra fills and top-off's that I get on my air rifle from a 4900 to 5000 psi fill. I get 10 extra minimally. So this is a technique I use to achieve the higher pressures and shot counts without over-stressing the manufacturer recommended settings. Other people on here may not feel comfortable going beyond 4000 psi. That's they're prerogative. Who am I to tell them that you're wrong for being conservative with the very expensive compressor you bought, and that you want to work for years and years without issue?

Also, dive shops often fill tanks from near zero pressure (with the exception of air gunners bringing in their tanks with 2000 to 2500 psi left in them). That's definitely going to generate some heat inside of the large bottle. But I typically refill my tank when it hits 3500 psi. So I'm increasing the pressure by 1000 psi. This takes about 20 minutes. Before I would let it settle and it would drop by 50-100 psi. Now I just throw it straight into the ice water and go grab a "cold pop" and wait 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, it has dropped by 400-500 psi, and the skin of the bottle is ice cold. And I know the air inside is ice cold as well. So I top it back off to 4500 psi, pull it, and let it settle. The pressure climbs to 4900 to 5000 psi. It does it every time. It's just a technique I like to use. But to say that I will struggle to see the results that I'm expecting is inaccurate. Because so far I've achieved the results every time I've done it. Not trying to tit-for-tat with you, but my results don't lie.

BTW- I have access to an ice maker. But even if I didn't, I'd go to the store and buy a 10 pound bag of ice for $5. To me it's worth it.


 
I use the same method for filling my tanks. I use the freezer to cool my bottle down. 

I started a topic about 2 years ago called "Chilled fill". It was not well received do to safety concerns at the time.


Yeah, it's funny to me how many people have "safety concerns" about filling a tank to (or slightly) above the recommended settings. If you look at the hydro test sticker on the tank, you can see that the pressure was pushed FAR beyond the recommended settings. Also, the bust disk on the bottle valve is set for 6000 psi. I'm not even coming CLOSE to that with using the "chill fill" method. But what I was also proposing was a way for the guys and girls on here that are trepidatious about pushing their compressors too hard and shortening their life to get a 4500 psi fill from only pushing their compressors to 4100 or 4200 psi. It's a win-win. 

For all the safety naysayer's, let me remind you that every time you line up on your rifle, you have 3000+ psi within an inch or two of your face. That's whether it be the bottle on the rifle itself, or through the valving when the gun is fired. Some rifles will have 4200-4500 psi in the bottle. When you fill the dive tank using the "chill fill" (I gladly give credit to Kayakairgun for coining that term), you're not keeping the bottle right next to your face. And every time you refill your rifle, you're alleviating pressure from the large CF bottle. If you don't feel safe filling to over 4500 psi, then don't. But even if you feel the reward outweighs the risk, you don't have to keep 4500+ psi stored in the large bottle all the time. Just use the method before you're about to go hunting or target shooting.