How do I fix this? Need some creative help.

[r1lover]

From what I am looking at when the stock is installed it appears as though someone got both screws crooked and cross threaded. In the picture with the stock removed the screw on the left side of the gun (right side of the picture) now appears more square with the steel tab leading me to believe you may have engaged the original factory threads when putting the screw back in so it went in straight.

I would examine the threads in those steel tabs first to see if they are cross threaded. If they are, I would consider simply drilling them out and re-threading them with a slightly larger SAE thread and new screws. You'll probably need to make larger stock screw holes to accommodate the larger screws..

The wood in the hole on that one side looks bad. I would glue a hardwood dowel in place. When dry I would insert a bit through the opposite side hole in the stock and using both holes as pilots drill completely through the center of the dowel. Use a bit that will drill a flat, square bottom in the screw holes from the outer side when drilling to accommodate the screw head diameter.

 

[Pea-shooter O.G.]

I can confirm that the screws/bolts are 5mm. 

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

From what I am looking at when the stock is installed it appears as though someone got both screws crooked and cross threaded. In the picture with the stock removed the screw on the left side of the gun (right side of the picture) now appears more square with the steel tab leading me to believe you may have engaged the original factory threads when putting the screw back in so it went in straight.

I would examine the threads in those steel tabs first to see if they are cross threaded. If they are, I would consider simply drilling them out and re-threading them with a slightly larger SAE thread and new screws. You'll probably need to make larger stock screw holes to accommodate the larger screws..

The wood in the hole on that one side looks bad. I would glue a hardwood dowel in place. When dry I would insert a bit through the opposite side hole in the stock and using both holes as pilots drill completely through the center of the dowel. Use a bit that will drill a flat, square bottom in the screw holes from the outer side when drilling to accommodate the screw head diameter.

If there stripped they won't tighten to the proper torque. I think Arnie by mentioned that one is stripped. I can definitely see them getting stripped inserting them at that angle. I think going to a 6mm oversize bolt is a little large. According to a chart I looked at a #12 screw is .210". I've used a dial caliper on a #10 and it is .210". A #12 is also shown as 5.5mm so who knows ! The other issue with increasing screw diameter is you have decrease the head diameter.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Delete

 

[Arnie]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

 

[JayJay]

Regarding the superglue wood repair. Try superglue and baking soda. https://boostuphome.com/tools/adhesives/super-glue-and-baking-soda/

But mind their cautions about the toxicity. 

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

Are we taking about the screw or yoke bracket? If you plan on removing that yoke let me know because you should be aware of some things to do it right.

 

[OTmachine]

Delete

FYI, # size screw diameter. Number size of screw X .013” + .060”

10 X .013 + .060 = .190”

HTH

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Delete

FYI, # size screw diameter. Number size of screw X .013” + .060”

10 X .013 + .060 = .190”

HTH

I know the formula but the #10 stainless screws I have dial caliber out to .210"

 

[Arnie]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

Are we taking about the screw or yoke bracket? If you plan on removing that yoke let me know because you should be aware of some things to do it right.

Yes I’ll be removing the yoke bracket and replacing it with a new one.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

Are we taking about the screw or yoke bracket? If you plan on removing that yoke let me know because you should be aware of some things to do it right.

Yes I’ll be removing the yoke bracket and replacing it with a new one.

Those brackets can be a pain to remove because they were attached with the concept of being permanent. You'll notice a straight strike mark that was done to keep the screw from backing out. Plus, pretty sure they used a permanent epoxy on the fastener before tightening it down. Get a old appropriate fitting Phillips screwdriver that you won't mind heating up. Get it hot to where it turns blue but not red hot. Insert the hot screwdriver in the screw and hold it there for about a minute. That will break the bond of the epoxy. Apply a similar epoxy or Loctite 262 or 272 to the screw. I tightened mine down to around 40-45 in lbs. Now get a small center punch with a tip in the 1/16" range. Support the receiver tube on something rigid. Your going to strike the screw head with the center punch near the edge of the screw. Not the edge ! Approximately 1/16" from the edge. Strike it firm enough where you leave some dimples that distort the edge of the screw. I do it in 3-4 places evenly spaced around the screw head circumference. I also slightly tilt the punch so my impact force would actually be going in the direction of tightening the screw. If you lean the punch the other direction your impacts might even loosen the screw. Naturally, you don't want to angle the punch to much because it might slip instead of producing the dimple. Let it cure overnight. I've also used a 100W solder gun to heat the screw in order to remove. Sometimes this screw will break free easily without heating. These are probably the rifles that the screw coming loose will become an issue.

 

[Arnie]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

Are we taking about the screw or yoke bracket? If you plan on removing that yoke let me know because you should be aware of some things to do it right.

Yes I’ll be removing the yoke bracket and replacing it with a new one.

Those brackets can be a pain to remove because they were attached with the concept of being permanent. You'll notice a straight strike mark that was done to keep the screw from backing out. Plus, pretty sure they used a permanent epoxy on the fastener before tightening it down. Get a old appropriate fitting Phillips screwdriver that you won't mind heating up. Get it hot to where it turns blue but not red hot. Insert the hot screwdriver in the screw and hold it there for about a minute. That will break the bond of the epoxy. Apply a similar epoxy or Loctite 262 or 272 to the screw. I tightened mine down to around 40-45 in lbs. Now get a small center punch with a tip in the 1/16" range. Support the receiver tube on something rigid. Your going to strike the screw head with the center punch near the edge of the screw. Not the edge ! Approximately 1/16" from the edge. Strike it firm enough where you leave some dimples that distort the edge of the screw. I do it in 3-4 places evenly spaced around the screw head circumference. I also slightly tilt the punch so my impact force would actually be going in the direction of tightening the screw. If you lean the punch the other direction your impacts might even loosen the screw. Naturally, you don't want to angle the punch to much because it might slip instead of producing the dimple. Let it cure overnight. I've also used a 100W solder gun to heat the screw in order to remove. Sometimes this screw will break free easily without heating. These are probably the rifles that the screw coming loose will become an issue.

Fortunately for me…it came out easily. I didn’t even have to heat it. Just came out with a philips and some force. When I put the new one in…I’ll apply some loctite. The only loctite I have in hand right now is loctite 638…should work.

 

[Pea-shooter O.G.]

I used an impact driver(the kind you strike with a hammer) and the appropriate phillips bit to secure that bracket screw. And I staked it with a cold chisel bit as described above. I also applied a bit of threadlocker as you all guys already discussed. Sounds like your making progress. 

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".

Metric size is M5x10mm. By the way, there are sites I can buy it from. They’re out of country though.

Are we taking about the screw or yoke bracket? If you plan on removing that yoke let me know because you should be aware of some things to do it right.

Yes I’ll be removing the yoke bracket and replacing it with a new one.

Those brackets can be a pain to remove because they were attached with the concept of being permanent. You'll notice a straight strike mark that was done to keep the screw from backing out. Plus, pretty sure they used a permanent epoxy on the fastener before tightening it down. Get a old appropriate fitting Phillips screwdriver that you won't mind heating up. Get it hot to where it turns blue but not red hot. Insert the hot screwdriver in the screw and hold it there for about a minute. That will break the bond of the epoxy. Apply a similar epoxy or Loctite 262 or 272 to the screw. I tightened mine down to around 40-45 in lbs. Now get a small center punch with a tip in the 1/16" range. Support the receiver tube on something rigid. Your going to strike the screw head with the center punch near the edge of the screw. Not the edge ! Approximately 1/16" from the edge. Strike it firm enough where you leave some dimples that distort the edge of the screw. I do it in 3-4 places evenly spaced around the screw head circumference. I also slightly tilt the punch so my impact force would actually be going in the direction of tightening the screw. If you lean the punch the other direction your impacts might even loosen the screw. Naturally, you don't want to angle the punch to much because it might slip instead of producing the dimple. Let it cure overnight. I've also used a 100W solder gun to heat the screw in order to remove. Sometimes this screw will break free easily without heating. These are probably the rifles that the screw coming loose will become an issue.

Fortunately for me…it came out easily. I didn’t even have to heat it. Just came out with a philips and some force. When I put the new one in…I’ll apply some loctite. The only loctite I have in hand right now is loctite 638…should work.

Thats good ! I would still use a center punch to make sure it stays tight. There's alot of vibration in the 34's firing behavior.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

I used to have the exact same model and problem. The way to avoid this is to leave all the stock screws very loose until all have been clearly started without any force having to be put on them. Always start a screw back turning it counter clockwise or backwards until you feel it drop into the starting thread. Then proceed to start getting the bolt clearly into the treads. Always tighten the problem or stubborn bolt first. 

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

To avoid eroding the tiny bit of wood in the bottom of the stock holes I’ve used JB weld and glue a flat washer to the bottom of the hole. Then a star washer to lock the screw. If one glues in the washer and reassembles the stock to the receiver acting as the clamp, there will always be perfect alignment and the contact points will also always align.

If you want a temp fix until you get a new yoke, I wouldn’t alter the stock, just drill out the stripped threads so the screw passes cleanly through and straight in. Then with the magic JB weld just add a small nut on the inside of the yoke and weld it to the yolk. Same clamping procedure as above. It should get you by until you get the part.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

To avoid eroding the tiny bit of wood in the bottom of the stock holes I’ve used JB weld and glue a flat washer to the bottom of the hole. Then a star washer to lock the screw. If one glues in the washer and reassembles the stock to the receiver acting as the clamp, there will always be perfect alignment and the contact points will also always align.

If you want a temp fix until you get a new yoke, I wouldn’t alter the stock, just drill out the stripped threads so the screw passes cleanly through and straight in. Then with the magic JB weld just add a small nut on the inside of the yoke and weld it to the yolk. Same clamping procedure as above. It should get you by until you get the part.

I've done the washer trick. On my 34 I just use the brass washers I made with no star lock washers and the screws stay tight. If I used the stars the fastners would come loose. Go figure !! The star washers directly on the wood are a joke! 

Using a nut on the forearm screws would be tricky as room to work is limited. Plus, a jam nut would be needed.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

A jam nut is a good idea. I have also used the JB weld to glue a piece like the nut we’re discussing in place ( as a temporary holder) then when it’s dry take the receiver back out of the stock and with a fine wire welder drop a tiny bead on it. No harm no foul because the yoke is getting replaced anyway. These crazy days who knows how long it will take to get a part like this.

Another way to solve this without having to replace the yoke would be to find the proper jam nut and with a drill or drill press and a dremel with a cutting wheel turn down the collar on the jam nut to a size that would insert in a predrilled oversized hole in the yoke.very little almost an unnoticeable amount of the nut would show. Could be glued or welded in place.

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

If you could find a rivet nut or equivalent your done. I would keep the same threads. If I had to change the thread from metric to sae ( couldn’t find the rivet nut in metric) I would do both sides of the yoke. Probably would anyway. Can only work if there is enough meat on the yoke. 

New a man back in Michigan that had a company that built up very tiny edges on expensive steel molds (micro welding) for companies and got the molds back to specs. He could easily fill that hole in and retap. Maybe someone around you could do this.

 

[GoldenStateAIRGUNer]

Even with a jam nut being able keep it from turning when you tighten the forearm screw would be tricky. Maybe a pair of long small needle nose pliers could hold it still ?? But I doubt it because the jaws of the pliers aren't going to make enough contact with the nut to hold it place when you start turning the screw. There was a member from Colorado who just used JB Weld on the end of the screw (and in contact with the yoke tabs) once he had them torqued down. After letting it totally cure the screws stayed put. To remove them he used the hot screwdriver method I already described. The RivNut idea might work except the clearance between the inside surface of the yoke tab and cocking arm is pretty tight.