How do I fix this? Need some creative help.

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Arnie

Arnie

Member
Aug 12, 2020
143
7
California, United States
Hello there. I’ve got an issue with my Diana 34 stock screw…it screws in sideways. The culprit is the stock itself. Could there be a way for me to fix it without buying a whole new stock? What if I placed a piece of wood there that perfectly fits in the hole and has a hole in the middle…basically a washer except wooden. Or perhaps a washer even? Any idea would be appreciated. I know a lot of you here are very creative.


Pictures: 

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Well you do need a metal washer before the bolt on both sides...looks like the bolt dug into the wood and that is why a metal washer is used,also you do not crank that bolt down that hard,,,,look at a parts list for it and order a couple of washers and get the torque specs for the bolt......and you do not tighten one bolt down hard ,you want the stock to have some play so you can make sure the holes are lining up right.......then tighten one some ,then the other one some, maken sure the gap is even where the stock and lever is.




 
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As boscoebrea said, the steel washer protects the wood.

Now that the wood is gone, make Oak (dowel) or beech plugs and fill the hole and re-drill. I use brass Mac1 like spacers on my Weihrauch Springers. You'll have to stain or Poly finish and blend to existing stock. I've used Varathane one-step poly spray for little jobs like this. The final look will depend on repair skills.
 
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Not sure if I'm seeing it correctly but in your first photo the yoke forks look like it doesn't run parallel with the rest of the rifle. They look bent. Could be just an illusion. My suggestion is if the screws aren't cross threaded in the yoke tabs then don't worry about it. The issue with the M34 is that yoke is secured to the receiver tube with a large Phillips head screw. This screw tends to come loose on some rifles. With the stock off grab that yoke with your hand and rock and twist it to see if it moves. If it does it can effect accuracy of the gun. Mine had this problem but I corrected it. Check yours and if it moves I'll give you a solution.

Screenshot_20211210-063212_Gallery.1639146830.jpg

 
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Have someone turn you a pair of steel pillars. You'll have to drill the hole larger and epoxy the pillars in.
Click to expand...

^^ This ^^
But first. I think you need to determine if those tabs that the screws thread into are supposed to be parallel with the receiver. I looked at my Diana Mdl 34 and they run parallel. But my stock looks a little different than yours. ( maybe mine gun is a newer version) 





 
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Looks like from the photos the holes were drilled and tapped at an angle, which would be a bummer. It might explain the depth wear on one side of the counterbore. If the stock counterbore didn't align with the centerline of the tab (and the tabs were at an angle, straightening them would make the alignment worse), they may have just compensated by drilling/tapping at an angle and called it a day. You might try and fab a tapered washer, or try something called a "leveling washer" from McMaster-Carr, but it may effect the screw standout a bit. Just an idea. Good luck!
 
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Two suggestions. First, the application of Superglue on the wood surrounding the through hole will stop most wood compression. Let it dry thoroughly for two days and it will be rock hard. I usually do this during the removal of factory "universal " grease and relube on a new springer.

The second is to use a brass stock cup from Tim. They come in various sizes and provide a metal spacer - much like a washer - but also add a nice finishing touch. You might also want to grind a little off of the screw tips to make them a tad shorter.
 
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Looks like from the photos the holes were drilled and tapped at an angle, which would be a bummer. It might explain the depth wear on one side of the counterbore. If the stock counterbore didn't align with the centerline of the tab (and the tabs were at an angle, straightening them would make the alignment worse), they may have just compensated by drilling/tapping at an angle and called it a day. You might try and fab a tapered washer, or try something called a "leveling washer" from McMaster-Carr, but it may effect the screw standout a bit. Just an idea. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Good point ! With the stock off install the screws into the tabs. If they are crooked the holes in the tabs were tapped at a angle.
 
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Not sure if I'm seeing it correctly but in your first photo the yoke forks look like it doesn't run parallel with the rest of the rifle. They look bent. Could be just an illusion. My suggestion is if the screws aren't cross threaded in the yoke tabs then don't worry about it. The issue with the M34 is that yoke is secured to the receiver tube with a large Phillips head screw. This screw tends to come loose on some rifles. With the stock off grab that yoke with your hand and rock and twist it to see if it moves. If it does it can effect accuracy of the gun. Mine had this problem but I corrected it. Check yours and if it moves I'll give you a solution.

<img src="
Screenshot_20211210-063212_Gallery.1639146830.jpg
" />//www.w3.org/2000/svg%22%20viewBox=%220%200%20210%20140%22%3E%3C/svg%3E
Click to expand...

Well what do you know…it seems the bracket itself was stripped on one side (the yoke more specifically). So first thing that needs to be done is a new bracket…anyone know where I can buy one? By the way, it does not move.

image.1639169998.jpg

 
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Well you do need a metal washer before the bolt on both sides...looks like the bolt dug into the wood and that is why a metal washer is used,also you do not crank that bolt down that hard,,,,look at a parts list for it and order a couple of washers and get the torque specs for the bolt......and you do not tighten one bolt down hard ,you want the stock to have some play so you can make sure the holes are lining up right.......then tighten one some ,then the other one some, maken sure the gap is even where the stock and lever is.



Click to expand...

image.1639170194.jpg

These “washers” come stock with the rifle from the 90s. Should use circular washers?
 
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I got a Diana Original 45 a while back whose stock fore end screw holes bore the same damage as yours. Mac1 screw cups are no longer available, and Tim said he wasn't making anymore. There isn't much wood to work with there. So, with limited tooling, I used the bodies of a couple rivets that I had and cut and fit them. I then used JB weld and set them in the stock and lightly installed new screws with the epoxy set up. The end result is an insert that is pillared in. They have seen a few thousand shots and have held up real well. Wish I had taken pictures with the action out.
20211210_132720.1639172509.jpg
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You might consider re tapping just slightly larger. Wouldnt be much to move up one size thread. I usedvto replace all my stock screws with socket head cap screws, better quality screws, strongerbthread than the cheap lesser quality screwscthat the factory uses. By tapping your own, you can decide whether to stick with metrics or switch over to american standard threads. Over the years I have had to retap many actions from owners getting heavy handed when tightening the screws or cross threading from being impatient when starting the screw. The soc hd cap screws use an allen key so they maintain their good looks much longer than a phillips head style screw. Give it some thought!!!!
 
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Arnie...I doubt you'll find that yoke bracket. Did you try moving it to see if it's tight ? If it's loose it can effect accuracy.

Don't use those star lock washers directly in contact with the stock. They won't stay tight and will just eat away at the stock.

As mentioned, you could just step up the screw size. Doesn't have to be metric either. Being that those tabs are not that thick I would recommend a fine thread. Wonder if a 10-32 would work ? Can't remember what the factory metric thread size is. Others may chime in. I believe a #10 screw is .210" in diameter which just might work. You probably will have to turn the head of the screw down to apx 400".
 
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