Holdover using scope clicks

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efem09

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Jun 16, 2017
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Hi all,

After using the old method, were you go in to a field, set various targets, and see where the pellet hits and adjust with crosshairs.

I want to learn how to use the scope using clicks, after seeing Matt and other popular Youtubers do it.

Is there any basic tutorial how to learn this? i do understand if you want to do this, you need atleast a MID tier scope, i would say quality wise Athlon+.

For example, if i zero my Kral PB in .25 at 30 yards, and have a PB range to 55 yards. There is a crow at 75, instead of using holdover, i want to click the scope and want to aim dead-on.

Thanks for reading, and any help is appreciated.
 
All I can do is tell you how I did it. I have targets set up at known measured ranges and I set my zero at 40 yards and start target practicing at each different range and adjusting my scope until I figure how many clicks up it takes from zero for each distance. I write it down and keep it under the scope cap for quick reference. Not the fanciest or maybe most precise way but it works for me
 
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Zach said:
All I can do is tell you how I did it. I have targets set up at known measured ranges and I set my zero at 40 yards and start target practicing at each different range and adjusting my scope until I figure how many clicks up it takes from zero for each distance. I write it down and keep it under the scope cap for quick reference. Not the fanciest or maybe most precise way but it works for me
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Great idea, so lets say your target is at 70 yards.

u click 15 times for example up right?
 
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After a full summer of using come ups on my reticle I am going to switch over to dialing. So I’ll be doing the same thing you’re going to do (like @Zach said).
I will be making a new dope card like my come up dope card but it will just show a yardage and a click amount.
My scope has a zero stop on it which is handy so you can confidently click down to zero.
With my short attention span and excitement of shooting something I will need to discipline myself to be sure and make my elevation adjustment.

4A7638DE-0651-4C86-8D74-453BCBBE5DA1.jpeg
 
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Doing what you are asking is easy enough. A lot of those guy's (like Dubber and other's who shoot at pests at varying distances) use small yardage stickers on the scope cap. That way they can just range the target and dial the scope. These are easy to place and give shooting experience in dialing as well.

The tutorial goes like this: You simply range the target at a known distance, usually starting at your zero distance. Then shoot and move the elevation knob until you're dead on and place a yardage sticker on the cap with known the yardage. Move back a known additional amount and do it again and again until you are at the furthest back that you shoot. The further you shoot the more spread out the stickers, and more precise ranging and dialing needs to be, among other factors.

If you download an app like Chairgun or can get Strelok Pro you can make a "dope chart" for the ammo and speeds that your shooting at. This will give you the holdover clicks and also let you find tune them as well. This app is wonderful, but the chart requires you to either memorize it, look at the phone while hunting, or printing the chart to have at the ready.

If you let us know the projectile, weight, FPS speed, and zero distance, we can post a chart from one of the apps that is pretty close. This won't be super precise because every gun is unique, but close.
 
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First sight in your scope at the top of your pellets trajectory so you only click one direction and always come back down to "zero". I don't count clicks. If your scope has 8 clicks per moa and you need to go up 8.5 moa, that is 70 clicks. My range card will have elevation as a decimal number like 3.1, 6.2, 8.5.... I read that as 3moa plus 1 click. If I get a range card dialed in and am not going to change it, I have a tape made for the turret with the yardage markers instead of moa's. It is very simple once you get that.
 
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Make sure you get a scope that has turrets that match the reticle. If not you are going to have problems. A zero stop is a great thing to have as well, to return back to your zero location quickly.

Then it is just about practice. I use both methods depending on what's getting shot. If something pops up quick you may not have time to dial.

Some turret stickers are great as well, makes dialing quicker.
 
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If you dial for every shot the turrents will always match the center of the crosshairs. I have a Hawke scope that has a moa turrent but mil reticle. No problem if you dial for every shot or use points on the vertical croshair. If you change power with a 2nd focal plane scope the points on the vertical line will be different but the center crosshairs will be correct when dialing. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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SDellinger said:
If you dial for every shot the turrents will always match the center of the crosshairs. I have a Hawke scope that has a moa turrent but mil reticle. No problem if you dial for every shot or use points on the vertical croshair. If you change power with a 2nd focal plane scope the points on the vertical line will be different but the center crosshairs will be correct when dialing. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
Yes, you are correct. It's a good thing most new scopes are being manufactured with corresponding reticles and turret values so there doesn't need to be any work around there.
 
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