Here I go again with my Disco!

[Arkmaker]

Had this one set up nice. Shooting 800 fps with very accurate groups using JSB 7.87. 

Then the fill nipple started to dump all my air when finished pumping up. Needle valve not sealing. I removed the nipple and cleaned it- but also noticed a very sticky coating on it as well as the inside of the tube.

Tore everything down and did a complete cleanup. Problem is I believe I cut my valve orings on re-insertion. Leaks down 5-600 psi over night. So back in I have to go. This time I'll do a little deburr work on the tube slots before sliding the re-oringed valve in.

Anyone have any other suggestions for minimizing oring cuts. I've used a little bit of silicon grease in the past, but I'm kinda worried that the stickyness I found was a result of over greasing by the previous owner.

Thanks

 

[clgraham82]

Go slow! I use a small flat blade screw driver and help guide the orings past the opening. Keep plenty of orings on hand lol. 

 

[hitech]

Try silicone oil instead of grease if you have any. That's what I use on my Orings without any issue.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Yea, silicone grease looks kind of disgusting after being in the tube for a while. I don't think it hurts anything though, and does make a good barrier to any moisture that might make it into it. Silicone oil makes it easier on the install. O-rings slide along better, but might not provide long-term protection to the steel surface.

De-burring can be done with a ball hone bit in a dremel. I recently got a Flex-Hone for Mrod tube , to polish an RAI tube to fix a slow leak. It should work wonders on slots/holes, too. You would want one in 3/4" size. They run about $35 so might not be worth it unless you have multible tubes that size.

 

[biohazardman]

I often use a thin folded piece of 400-600 wet dry sandpaper slid in the slot of a cotter pin and then chuck it up in a drill and spin it inside the tube to take off burrs. If the sand paper is the right length like two or three times the diameter of the tube it will center itself while it is spinning. After a cleaning I use silicone grease on the o-rings and then assemble things. When I do this religiously I never have damaged o-rings or leaks.

I have also used a brake cylinder hone to smooth the tubes out. It needs to be a small one or it won't werq.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I often use a thin folded piece of 400-600 wet dry sandpaper slid in the slot of a cotter pin and then chuck it up in a drill and spin it inside the tube to take off burrs. If the sand paper is the right length like two or three times the diameter of the tube it will center itself while it is spinning.

A coat hanger can also work. I put some electrical tape on the shaft to prevent chance of scraping tube.

 

[-Blue]

You could try making a diy cutout plug.



I used a product called InstaMorph to make a plug for my disco and marauder. Put the valve in the tube but rotated so only the smooth valve body shows through the cutout. Press a warm blob of plastic into the cutout and when cool you’ll have a perfectly fitting plug to keep the o-rings from pushing up as they slide past.

 

[Arkmaker]

Thanks for the tips guys. I've used some of them in the past.

I just finished up deburring with my dremel and followed up with 600 grit on a wood dowel for good measure. I'm just waiting to get back into town for new orings. 

Also, one of the good guys over on the GTA sent me a new 3K pressure gauge. So I should be good to go this time once I get onto town again.

 

[Arkmaker]

Actually surrendered and sent for an oring kit from captain oring. 2 full sets of all the orings for 12.75. I can live with that. Should be here tomorrow according to tracking info.

Ahhh... I need my Disco back