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Help with Scope Zero

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easyridemm

easyridemm

Member
Nov 29, 2019
112
37
Blevins, Arkansas
I have a Hawke 8x32x56 scope that is used primarily for 100 yard shooting. Once in a while I might want to shoot at a critter at a lesser distance of 50 or 75 yards. I zeroed this scope with adjustable rings at 100 yards with minimal turret adjustment needed. This scope does not track well enough to go from 100 yards down to 50 yards and be on target the very next shot. My question for you guys is where would you zero the scope to be able to shoot all distances from 25 to 100 yards using my holdover or hold under? Keeping in mind that I would like the best possible clarity at 100 yards. Thanks for your help.
 
Zero and clarity are separate things. If the scope is adjustable for parallax, then you simply focus for clarity. Regarding the zero, there are numerous methods and all have followers. Some folks zero at the rifle's trajectory apex, so every hold off zero is a hold over, never hold under. Or, zero for dead on at your preferred distance. I don't see as it makes a difference, simply a preference. Either way, it is necessary to know the POA at various distances, so it's just a matter of practice and accurate ranging.
 
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easyridemm said:
I am shooting a RAW 1000X LRT in .25. cal. I am shooting JSB 33.95 @ 915 to 920fps.
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Well you're in a tough spot. The cheapest course of action would be to just zero at 75yds and hold under 5 MOA at 50yds and holdover 6 MOA at 100yds. The better option would be to just get an optic with reliable turrets. Athlon would be my first choice on the more budget friendly side of things.
 
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easyridemm said:
I was under the impression that you would achieve maximum clarity from your scope when it was optically centered. As you move towards the edge of your turret adjustment the scope picture would not be as clear as the center at range.
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It needs to be centered to yield the maximum adjustment range in all directions. And yes, the center is generally a sharper focus with less distortion, and more so in less expensive scopes with lower quality glass. But that's all a separate issue from your method of zero.
 
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easyridemm said:
I have a Hawke 8x32x56 scope that is used primarily for 100 yard shooting. Once in a while I might want to shoot at a critter at a lesser distance of 50 or 75 yards. I zeroed this scope with adjustable rings at 100 yards with minimal turret adjustment needed. This scope does not track well enough to go from 100 yards down to 50 yards and be on target the very next shot. My question for you guys is where would you zero the scope to be able to shoot all distances from 25 to 100 yards using my holdover or hold under? Keeping in mind that I would like the best possible clarity at 100 yards. Thanks for your help.
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I think what you can do is use PBR calculations. That's Point Blank Range. Google " Point Blank Range calculator ". You'll need the weight and bc of your Projectiles, fps at muzzle and distance from scope center axis to bore center axis. Choose a random " kill zone" size, also called " pipe". Maybe start with a 2" kill zone. After entering the required info hit the continue or calculate or whatever it says. You will get first zero and second zero distance. Also there will be a graph showing bullet path. If 2" doesn't give you the results you want, increase or decrease the size of the kill zone. When you find the PBR that looks good set up 4 targets at 1st zero, 2nd zero and the other 2 spaced equally between the two. Remember, you will be low from muzzle to first zero. This will depend on scope highth. PBR calculator will get you close, but you'll need to prove it on paper. Have fun.
Bill and Addi.
 
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