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Help with AV compressor problem

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Heyday33

Member
Aug 4, 2017
18
0
Arkansas, United States
I have a 4 year old Air Venturi 4500 psi compressor with a problem and hope somebody can help. It has about 10 hours run time with multiple oil changes according to the AV instructions. 

I was attempting to top off my 74 L tank - all was going well until I turned off the compressor to answer the phone. After the call I tried to turn the compressor back on but it would not re-start - I then closed the valve to the tank, bled the line, and disconnected the tank - I also opened the pressure release valve on the compressor to make sure the compressor had no residual pressure in the system and closed the valve. I tried again to restart the compressor but it would not start.

The compressor is getting power (the water cooling pump runs) so I checked the fuse in the compressor with a multimeter to see if it had blown - the fuse was still good.

Current condition is that the System Reset button is in the OFF position and will not reset to the ON position. The water cooling pump receives power and is operating.

I spent time waiting on the AV service line but gave up. Any thoughts about getting me back up and running are very much appreciated!

Alan
 
Thanks triggertreat - it has been a couple of days since it failed to restart so the system was cool when I tried to re-start it again this morning. I will definitely keep the Airgun Nation community informed - there is a lot of expertise on this board and I have benefited from it on several occasions. 

To give credit to Air Venturi, Roger from their help line called me back within an hour - alas, I was on the phone again when the call came in and was unable to connect before the AV guy left a message. Figures!
 
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I'm not familiar with that compressor but I would try holding the reset switch in while turning on the power. Maybe that switch is bad.

"After the call I tried to turn the compressor back on but it would not re-start – I then closed the valve to the tank, bled the line, and disconnected the tank"

Starting the compressor under load is a good thing to avoid. It's definitely a different animal but the Nomad unit has been know to blow the circuit board when started under load.
 
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The way I fill my tanks is I use the inline check valve built into my Stikman fill assembly. I open the tank's valve fully before starting the AV compressor/fill. This method puts the remaining tank pressure (typically 3000 psi) against the check valve. The check valve will open once the pressure from the compressor exceeds the tank pressure. This way I don't have to time the opening of the tank's valve and risk blowing an AV burst disk when I guess the valve opening wrong. I have blown a few burst disk, but none since filling using the check valve. There is no back pressure on the compressor this way starting out and I can walk away and check back later for compressor temp and progress, also bleed the line of any water. Usually every 5 to 10 minutes. Also, if a hose pops off or the AV burst disk blows (they become weak over time) I won't/shouldn't lose any tank pressure.

I hope it is an easy fix. I have had mine almost five years now without issues (except simple burst disk that was my fault), and have used it quite a bit filling two large tanks for five different guns. Two of which are big bores a shoot a lot. I am curious as to what the tech help says...I know my day is coming on mine, but has already paid for itself many times compared to the dive shop schedule/trips/fills it replaced.

 
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The way I fill my tanks is I use the inline check valve built into my Stikman fill assembly. I open the tank's valve fully before starting the AV compressor/fill. This method puts the remaining tank pressure (typically 3000 psi) against the check valve. The check valve will open once the pressure from the compressor exceeds the tank pressure. This way I don't have to time the opening of the tank's valve and risk blowing an AV burst disk when I guess the valve opening wrong. I have blown a few burst disk, but none since filling using the check valve. There is no back pressure on the compressor this way starting out and I can walk away and check back later for compressor temp and progress, also bleed the line of any water. Usually every 5 to 10 minutes. Also, if a hose pops off or the AV burst disk blows (they become weak over time) I won't/shouldn't lose any tank pressure.

I hope it is an easy fix. I have had mine almost five years now without issues (except simple burst disk that was my fault), and have used it quite a bit filling two large tanks for five different guns. Two of which are big bores a shoot a lot. I am curious as to what the tech help says...I know my day is coming on mine, but has already paid for itself many times compared to the dive shop schedule/trips/fills it replaced.
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A check valve is a nice idea but it wouldn't have prevented the damage that the OP is reporting. The check valve keeps the tank from losing air without closing the valve if you walk away and you have a leak in your fill lines. It would have no effect of protecting a compressor if someone shuts it off and then restarts it without draining the back pressure in the compressor.
 
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The way I fill my tanks is I use the inline check valve built into my Stikman fill assembly. I open the tank's valve fully before starting the AV compressor/fill. This method puts the remaining tank pressure (typically 3000 psi) against the check valve. The check valve will open once the pressure from the compressor exceeds the tank pressure. This way I don't have to time the opening of the tank's valve and risk blowing an AV burst disk when I guess the valve opening wrong. I have blown a few burst disk, but none since filling using the check valve. There is no back pressure on the compressor this way starting out and I can walk away and check back later for compressor temp and progress, also bleed the line of any water. Usually every 5 to 10 minutes. Also, if a hose pops off or the AV burst disk blows (they become weak over time) I won't/shouldn't lose any tank pressure.

I hope it is an easy fix. I have had mine almost five years now without issues (except simple burst disk that was my fault), and have used it quite a bit filling two large tanks for five different guns. Two of which are big bores a shoot a lot. I am curious as to what the tech help says...I know my day is coming on mine, but has already paid for itself many times compared to the dive shop schedule/trips/fills it replaced.
Click to expand...

A check valve is a nice idea but it wouldn't have prevented the damage that the OP is reporting. The check valve keeps the tank from losing air without closing the valve if you walk away and you have a leak in your fill lines. It would have no effect of protecting a compressor if someone shuts it off and then restarts it without draining the back pressure in the compressor.
Click to expand...

Yes, this is true and I am aware of this. I have started my AV many times under pressure (before the check valve) without any issues other than causing the compressor to complain a bit and having to hit the switch a couple of times to get it to turn over. Not something I liked doing, but some situations required this, like wanting a full tank for the range.
 
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That was the one thing of many that I liked about the hatsan Lightning, as it had a feature that was a fail safe, that protected itself should one turn on the compressor under load. 

Even with that feature, there were warnings in the instructions to not turn on the compressor under load. Doing so is pretty much the death of low to mid level compressors.

In an effort to assist the OP, I’d start by taking off all four side panels and I’d be checking wiring and terminal ends for any signs of electrical shorts as my first step in diagnosis. Hopefully it’s something minor, and not a bent crankshaft or piston rod that’s causing the seize up
 
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"Not something I liked doing, but some situations required this"

I can't see how any situation would "require" starting under pressure.
Click to expand...

They do exist.
Click to expand...

Feel free to explain.
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That would be pointless and would not fix the OP's issue. The OP has already given one example of a situation. Lets wait and see what the tech comes up with tomorrow. Hopefully it is something minor.

While we wait, what is the real issue with turning on a compressor under a reasonable load? Understanding loads do vary per incident. I have done this on a number of occasions myself without any issues. Only when I am up near say 4000 to 4300 psi have I had start up issues and had to hit the switch a time or two to get the motor to turn over. My thinking has been it is better to have a small load at least on start up. Kind of like revving a car motor in neutral type of thinking. I would like to hear someone knowledgeable speak on this matter as I really don't know the why and why not either way.
 
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OK - talked with Roger at Air Venturi today - from my description he said that he believed the problem was electrical and suggested a blown fuse (which I had already checked and was fine) or a possible relay issue (a blue-colored relay next to to the fuse box). He said that if the relay was bad the blue plastic cover could appear smoky or clouded - I took a look at mine and it looked clear and undamaged. He did mention other possible electrical issues as well - circuit board, etc., things well beyond my limited abilities to repair. I did ask him about repair at Air Venturi/Pyramyd and he said it would likely cost about $200 to ship to them and $60/hr tech time for repairs. They take care of the return shipping cost. Maybe the worst of it is that turn around to get the compressor back to me would be 4 to 6 weeks. Hearing that I ordered a Yong Heng from Amazon and I am still thinking about whether I will send the Air Venturi compressor for repairs.

Out of curiosity, how much would the fine members of Airgun Nation consider sinking into the repair of a four-year old compressor now retailing for $1499? If you wouldn't buy a new Air Venturi compressor, what would you consider buying instead? I know you can go north of $3,000 for a compressor - are they worth it?

Thanks for all the comments/suggestions/wisdom.

Alan
 
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If you've already ordered a Yong Heng, I'd say use it and see how it works for you but possibly someone near you can help with a repair for the AV. A recent thread on a Tuxing compressor indicated that many (most?) of the electronic components can be found online. I've had a Yong Heng for 3+ years and it still works just fine. Several people have reported similar but many have also reported quick failures. I bought a gas powered Coltri MCH6 a while back (new versions around $2500 plus shipping) because of the possible failure of the Yong Heng. Probably depends on your budget and the need for peace of mind.

As to starting under load, I would doubt that it would damage the compressor section but the electrical system seems to be another matter. Starting HPA compressors without load sure seems to be widely recommended and I've never seen a need to do otherwise.
 
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