There's only 4 things that come to mind when valves are stuck in bottles..
1, they're cross-threaded or wayyy over-tightened in there.
2, thread locker was used to make sure they didn't budge.
3, there's enough air pressure in them to create more of a seal / resisistance.
4, the wrong removal methods / tools are being used for the job..
We'll rule out 1 - for now.
Thread locker. This is an industry standard, so, that will have to be dealt with..
As mentioned, to break thread lock down, you must adequately and evenly apply heat to it.
We're talking high heat, and a specific temp range. So no hair-dryer, only high temp heat guns and or gas/flame.
Tank pressure - as mentioned previously, just make 100% sure to purge any/all pressure from inside of the tank.
1 for easier disassembly, and 2 for the obvious - Safety.
Methods / Tools - From the looks of the assembly that you're trying to remove..
you'll need a specific sized spanner wrench [pin diameter / size] to fit into the holes bored in the flange..
The pin diameter should be large enough so that it won't just wiggle around and/or snap off.
The Quality of the metal used to make the tool / spanner wrench in this case should be more than 1/2 way decent..
Very low priced / low quality tools are fine if/when they work, but obviously a terrible choice if/when they fail..
Something like this requires good metal for good strength for good results.
Me personally.. I'd take a caliper or other measuring device.. Measure the hole diameter,
get the corresponding adjustable pin spanner wrench, and call that part good..
Chuck the tank in a padded vise, so it won't move/spin..
Have a proper heat source - hit the heat to the end of the bottle and valve, work all around the circumference...
Once the heat is equally applied and the locker is deactivated, it's time to spin the valve out..
Be careful to seat the spanner pin into the hole - so it's not going to pop out..
Once bottomed out in there, and w/ the wrench squared up, apply even / hard pressure until' it budges..
Have somewhere for the valve to go, because it should be and will be Hot. Don't get burned..
Clean threads with acetone / alcohol / solvent and/or also hit w/ a fine bristle wire / copper brush
This is why I use blue colored Loc-Tite in the red bottle and not red colored Loc-Tite [requiring heat]
Or whatever they're using now [sometimes black]
Anyways..
When you're working with Carbon Fiber - Use Extra Precaution!
It can / will have sharp edges, It can / will cut you, it can / will chip and/or splinter if not handled with care..
So in this case, when reinstalling a valve [installing it into a carbon fiber bottle]
Make sure that the tool is Only on the metal part of the valve, and that is is not making contact w/ the carbon fiber..
This also means - Make sure that when you're doing the final snugging / tightening, that the wrench is thin enough
to avoid hitting the carbon outer section.. Thicker bodied / handled tools tend to rub the end of the cf sometimes,
and that'll end up shaving a bit of material off. Not the end of the world, but, should be addressed by sanding / re-sealing.
[Glue in a pinch - Epoxy recommended]
Sam -
