Help. Setting up a new scope Parallax Wheel Focus Distance Tape.

I'm getting ready to setup a new scope. The first step after mounting a large comma parallax wheel is to note the yardage on the wheel tape. What do you use to focus on to mark your parallax wheel? I have used several different items with limited success. Last time I used a cereal box next to my squirrel knockdown target. My thought was the print on the box would help refine my adjustments but this turned out to be a total fail. The print was not as sharp as I would have liked. DO they make a background target just for this part of setting up a new scope? I would appreciate your experiences. Thanks
 
I use an old white knock down target mounted on a short chunk of 2x12. This target has been repainted many times without removing the old paint so it has a rough texture. My SIII really locks in on the slight shadowing created by the old painted over chips on the face. For me this works better than a flat piece of news print or eye chart for focus ranging. Uj
 
  • Like
Reactions: cavedweller
I use an old white knock down target mounted on a short chunk of 2x12. This target has been repainted many times without removing the old paint so it has a rough texture. My SIII really locks in on the slight shadowing created by the old painted over chips on the face. For me this works better than a flat piece of news print or eye chart for focus ranging. Uj

I agree with UJ.

I've used photographers "focus pages" before with success, found online and downloaded/printed. But Since then I've been using Rusty tin cans to focus on. Something similar to what I will be focusing on in a Field Target match- usually a shot up target, cinderblock texture, or pull chain. I figure if I set up my wheel focusing on something similar to match conditions I will be most familiar with what "focused" should look like. 

Just my preference.
Dead Eye


 
  • Like
Reactions: beerthief
oh man......

That shcart (above) is great, but you need many things of many colors....

I use circles, black and orange, of 3/8 to 2 inches on the page, lines of the same lenght, a 3 inch square sticker of my wife's art work, a 1 inch oragne sticker and Ive likely forgot something. IMO you need a variety of things and colors to focus on. IF you only use the lines, your eyes may not "see" a circle of the same diameter as the line legnth as the same size.



Also, you should do the setup at the brightest time of day (here in Montana at my place that 1 pm to 4 pm...)
 
I had been using normal targets for previous rifles like others have mentioned, and it has worked out great. This past week or so I have tried using the eye chart for a new setup like others have mentioned. I’m not sure I like the eye chart.

For a while I can see the very smallest items. Then later, I have to shift up to other rows, because the smaller stuff is just too small to see. It probably isn’t any different from focusing on other targets, but it feels like I’m focusing on different items and I wonder I’m how that affects repeatability. Focus comes in quicker on the larger items. I’m wondering how repeatable this is going to be when I switch to focusing on a real target. If the point is that repeatability where the target first comes into focus, it feels like it might be off.

I only made it thru half the wheel as cold as it was, so I’ll probably throw a squirrel target up next week if it warms up enough and see how comparable it is before I keep going down this road.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cavedweller
I have used the eye charts. I find that something with dimension is reputable for me and my scope. At matches I look at the bolts, pull string connector or pull, and the holes in a cinder block. As Dead Eye said above. I now use at home to set up what I use at the match. I shot once in the forest. Pine tree bark seemed better than anything I have seen. But pine trees are pretty scarce in the desert.
Some guys I shoot with swear by using a lit target at nite, but I never tried it.