Help! My Hatsan Lightning Compressor won't start or build pressure—Fixed!

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Bringing back LLeons tread from the past, as I recently had a failure in both the cooling and compressor switches. 

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Compressor worked well two days before, but just as LLeon had said, it was making an unusual noise. Sounded more like I possibly had an air leak, which I knew I didn’t. Anyway, went to use it two days later to top off a tank and the voice comes on to say good to go, but no power to the compressor. Looked at the compressor switch and one leg was fried, and the spade terminal just snapped off of the switch upon light handling. The coolant switch wasn’t that bad, but the leg that ties in from the compressor switch to the coolant switch terminal was slightly fried. 

Called Hatsan at 1:30pm CA time and Sean answered. After letting him know what happened, two new switches were on the way. To all the ones out there that have any doubt in Hatsan’s customer service, let this be proof that they are A1 in that department. To date, they have never let me down on any issues I have had with two of my Hatsan purchases, the Lightning compressor and my Hercules Bully. Thank you, Hatsan Sean!

Got both switches in place, but this time I soldered the terminals to the new wiring I used. I also increased the wire size one size up, and also soldered the push on terminal to the switch legs. I truly feel the vibrations from the compressor loosen these terminals and cause sparks which end up in fried parts. Common sense tells me solder will prevent this. I also used one wire at each leg, vs piggy backing two or three onto one spade like it came from the factory, and used wire nuts down hill to re connect bundled connections. Didn’t use just electrical tape on the connections, either, but instead anti vibration tape.



I turned on the compressor, and man, it sure sounds way different. Sounds like it’s brand new, no clacking, hissing, nothing. Makes me think when wires aren’t making solid contact with electrical connections, it would sound like bad timing in a vehicle, causing weird noises. 



I also found a source on Amazon for these exact same switches. They are inexpensive, so I’m going to pick up a couple more just to have as back up. 

To any AV and Lightning owners, my advice to you all is to make it a maintenance step to pop off the metal housing covers and check on your switch terminals for any signs of burn marks on them, so you can catch it before anything catastrophic happens. I consider myself lucky that only the switches fried.

https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-KCD4-Rocker-Switch-Motorcycle/dp/B01M0S57NA
 
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Well You guys convinced me. I am buying the Lightning. I re-wired my Tuxing with 14 gauge wire. One leg got so hot it caught the insulation on fire! Probably will just re-wire the lightning right away.



Dennid
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I believe that you’re gonna really like the Lightning compressor. 



Do a search on this sub sub forum on Lightning topics, as us lighning owners have gone back and forth with each other sharing tips and tricks on these compressors. 



For the price point and what it has to offer, I feel it is the best residential type compressor in its class. 
 
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Hey Bigragu

Glad to see you got your compressor fixed up. Looks like the same issue I had. I have put 3 hours on mine since I replaced the switches and fixed the wiring. It purrs like a kitten now and runs so smooth. I have it on a 24x36 roll around cart from Harbour Freight with a rubber floor matt under it. Makes it very handy to move around now.

In my opinion Hatsan should upgrade the terminals as it seems to be a recurring problem. I have access to top quality terminals at my work so that's what I used. The ones that came on it were weak. The vibration would make them come loose on the terminal spade of the switch. Plus I had one come off the wire as it wasn't crimped tight. 



Also the switches from Pyramid Air are the same and pretty cheap too.
 
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Randy, that link I put up from Amazon, come in 10 switches to a pack. I accidentally ordered two packs,lol, so I gotta call amazon to return one pack. I don’t plan on going thru 20 switches in this Lightning’s lifetime, lol



The amazon switches are exactly the ones on the hatsan. I feel if the terminals are soldered they should last a bit longer.
 
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Mine arrived last night. Man what a pain in the ass getting the covers off.! Both sides center screws where stripped, I had to drill them out. Got it programmed. Haven't synced the pressure yet. Did the break in it held 4350 PSI for 20 minutes before it started to bleed off. Hopefully this will be a winner.



Dennis
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Good luck with your new compressor Dennis.
 
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Dennis, if you have an Ace hardware close by, take one of those panel screws in with you. In those bins, you will find stainless pan head screws close to the ones hatsan has on the compressor, should you one day need to replace them. 

Me, I am going to switch mine out eventually to number 8 hex head self tappers in stainless. I’d rather use a nut driver tool to remove the screws than a Phillips tip any day.

set your purge time for 10 minutes, as I’ve learned topping off a tank from 3000 to 4500 usually takes 18-20 minutes. From 3200 to 4500 around 15 minutes, and from 3400 to 4500 around 12-13 minutes. Either way, I am guaranteed at least one full purge of moisture in any of those fills. I like to get two purges in any top off I do, one at midpoint, and one at the end.

Dont ever use an extension cord to power up your compressor. Plug straight into a 20amp outlet.

Dont ever try to start it with any air pressure in the system. Like if you shut it off at midpoint of a tank fill cause wifey called you in the house, then go back out and re start the compressor. You’ll have to bleed the system and start over.

Set your BAR or PSI shut off pressure BEFORE you turn on the cooling fan. Like right after you plug it in and hear the voice, “you can turn on power”. If you don’t, no big deal, it’ll just shut off at the last setting you programmed it at to shut off. I’m just letting you know, in case you need to fill a gun and you want it to shut of at say, 3000 psi, and you last topped off a tank and had it shut off at 4495. Always set the shut off before turning the cooling fan on.
 
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Thank you! 

I am going to leave the panels off for better cooling and access. I broke it in gently a couple times. When I did the leak test it held air great, My tank was already topped off from my other compressor, I couldn't stand it, Drained it down to 3400 and hooked her up. It got to 3635 and stopped, wasn't climbing. Maybe I was impatient. I did the leak test again and this time watched the gauge, sure enough it stuck on 3635 for a few minutes temp went to 145 and then it filled up to 4450. I then hooked my tank back up to the old machine and it topped it off so it wasn't the tank. I'll try again later today



Dennis
 
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Dennis, last night after I sent my last post on this tread I went on Hatsan’s website, looked up the Lightning compressor, and see they have a series of 4 videos you can watch. The first one was the video on initial set up. At the end of the video you will see links to video #2, which is to set up the auto purge and auto stop. Another video does the set up for gage calibration, and the fourth one shows how to fill a pcp gun using the compressor. 

everytime I fill it will hang onto 3400 psi for awhile, then at around 4064 it’ll hang for awhile, then lastly at 4350 it’ll hang for awhile. But it’ll only take 20-25 minutes total to go from 3000 to 4500 all in all. If yours isn’t moving steady you may still have a sufficient leak somewhere. Mine initially was at the fill whip connection.



Lastly, for now, I find re tightening of the hard line connections are best after the compressor shuts down, when everything is hot. Make sure and use a back up wrench when tightening down.

on he sheet metal lid that covers the cooling fan, to protect fingers from getting in there, unscrew the four nuts on top about 3/4-1” upwards. Raise that plate, and underneath there should be another set of nuts. Bring those up and lock that plate up. This gives you a gap now between plate and cooling fan, which will allow the fan to flow more air. You’ll never get your mittens in there anyway, so don’t worry about that safety precaution. More important to aid in cooling airflow, the way I see it.

oh, I’m on a role now, lol. Is you follow the coolant lines coming out of the tank, you will see that they are against that cover plate. Go get yourself some automotive split wire loom and wrap it around those coolant lines, where they touch that plate. If’n you don’t, in time those hoses will chafe against that plate with the vibration.
 
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I have that timer works great! I will get a cover now that I know it works like it's supposed to. I'm going to find a fan to point at the control box to try and cool it off some. This unit is harder to work on than the Tuxing only because there was more thought in lacing the wires like they should be. Man that auto purge is going take some getting used to!
 
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Oh, on that auto purge, next time you got a buddy over have him go out to the garage and look for that left handed crescent wrench that you set by the compressor, and have that auto purge function in sync with when he’s looking for that hard to find tool, lol. Have video camera ready, I might add.

i know that hatsan video shows Sean using 100% distilled water, but I use Zerex G-05 diesel coolant, at a ratio of 60%water to 40% coolant, and I also add a water wetter coolant additive, just 6 ounces. It’s made by Redline, and found at all auto parts stores. During the summer months, for tank top offs, I never see it really go past 165 degrees. I made a note to myself to shut it down at 180, even though Hatsan says do not exceed 190 degrees in temps.

Dennis, have you actually gone thru all the fittings with a spray solution of dish soap and water? Also, make sure and spray the end cap at the top of the gold filter, as there is an o ring in that cap. Spray around the aluminum block that your fill whip is attached to, also.

dont forget the fill whip factory pressed on connections, either. That was one of the first faults on mine, and hatsan replaced my fill whip licketty split fast as soon as I sent them a video of all the air bubbles.

As far as oil goes, to each their own, but I spent the extra coin and put in Amsoil compressor oil. ISO- 100 SAE 30/40 weight. Not really that bad at $15/quart, and I get approximately 2.5 fills in a quart.
 
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LOL...…. I have a buddy coming over Saturday, I'm going to scare the living bejesus outta him HAHAHAHA. Yes I did check for leaks, All was good until I took that filter off. It was a pain in the ass getting that line back on so it didn't leak. I didn't check the whip. I'll do that later.

Those reading along that may be on the fence with buying a compressor...…..Once you have your own air source? It really does change the game. Buy what you can afford and get to know it, All require some attention at some point, I am not a good wrench but I have been able to keep my Tuxing running. Like most of us that have these? You will need to do some basic stuff like rewiring, oil changes, ect ect. I could afford a Coltri but I just could not make it pencil out. Even the AV was a stretch and it failed in less than a month so here I am with the lightning. + one to Bigragu. I appreciate all your advise sir.



Dennis
 
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That pic on Hatsan’s website must be an early prototype then, and yours and my purge units must be the latest and the greatest. Good to know, especially since I’ve had mine for 15 months now. So no current changes have been made.

As far as decked out, all I did was find three of the strongest magnets with swivel hooks at the Home Depot fastener isle to hang my cord and the removable fill whip. I still have the original whip that comes with the compressor, but opted for a longer one thru Outdoor guy on eBay. My goal was to make the whip removable for easier storage. I used a new dowty bonded seal and installed a female BSP quick disconnect on the aluminum block, and to keep it clean popped in a dead head plug.

Those cord/hose organization clips are a ratcheting type, and also sourced thru Home Depot and found at the end caps of the fastener isle. They come in tiny sizes for cleaning up computer cable wiring all the way to large ones to tidy up construction electrical cords.

My compressor is stored on a roll around pvc construction cart, with a 24” x 30” x 1/2” thick soft rubber pad directly underneath the compressor to help with taking up of the vibration. The top of the cart has enough room to hold the compressor, a 6.8 cubic foot air tank, a binder with all compressors manuals and log time sheets. Underneath the cart I keep all things pcp related, which include misc. pcp fittings, targets, a pellet trap, all the maintenance gaskets, seals, and foam filters for the compressor, and on the top storage slots of the cart are all the tools to service the compressor. It s very handy, because I shoot out of my garage and I can roll that cart to my shooting table and shoot tethered to my tank, then when done plug into an outlet and top off my tank.
 
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