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HeliBoard speed in Red Wolf HP

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Centercut

Centercut

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Jun 9, 2017
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I ran into an issue with my .22 RW HP with HeliBoard at RMAC. I was going to shoot my DW .25 in Speed but the gun had an issue with a broken microswitch so I had to use my RW HP instead. I found out that I could “get ahead” of the gun when shooting very fast. I’d shoot, then cock and shoot again, but nothing would happen until I pulled the trigger again. There was definite delay with the HeliBoard and Speed shooting with it seems like a non starter.
I’ve heard from others that they have the same problem. I’ve removed my HB and reinstalled the stock GCU2.0. I can go as fast as I want with it.
Anyone else run into this issue?
 
ctshooter said:
Not clear if you are saying the problem was the HeliBoard or the stock GCU - but regardless it sounds like it's taking longer than desired to recharge the capacitors to fire the solenoid again. Probably not much that can be done without altering the circuit.
Click to expand...
Yes, problem with HeliBoard.
 
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engfred said:
are your heliboard the first generation.. running of 2 cells. or the new high power version with 3 cells? i gues yours is the older version. My HP redwolf runs with the 3 lipo cell11.1 voltage version and it is instant ready again.
Click to expand...
Three cell 11.1 vdc battery. The RW HP has GCU2.0. I’m not the first to experience this issue. I was shooting 25.4 grain RD Monsters at about 980 fps. Maybe the power capacitors have aged over the past 20,000 shots….?
So as fast as you can cock gun and pull trigger it fires?
 
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When you open the bolt or flip the safety off, the Heliboard is powered down. I asked Jack how long it takes to charge (be ready to fire) when the bolt is closed. He said about 350 milliseconds... about 1/3 of a second(if I'm recalling correctly). It seems unlikey that you're outrunning it but sounds like you actually are. It seems like others have mentioned it, also. The GCU2 does not turn off when the bolt is cycled... only through timeout.
My Heliboards came with a cable and small switch to aid the programming process. It keeps the board on and is intended to use while programming so as not to have to start the sequence from the beginning with every change made. I had mine remoted to the battery compartment door and you could then have it ON or NORMAL at the click of the switch.
Seems like that would be a good option for Speed.
Bob
 
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Thanks Bob. John Tafoya told me he had the same issue. I don’t really need the HeliBoard anymore since all I shoot with the RW Bleu is RD Monsters. It used to shoot .217 JSB KO slugs lights out but no longer likes them.
I emailed Jack G who makes the HeliBoard and he said this:

No this is not a known issue.
If you noticed a significant change in capacitors recharge speed and you are sure about your battery
i would suggest to measure and maybe change the resetable green fuse (2A/16+ volt).
Those components are known to fail in usb ports.

Here’s the photo of the fuse.

1A581757-4D97-4134-8F05-45FA23CDAF59.jpeg
 
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Hi Centercut,
Have you tried a new fresh lipo cell?
do you have the 80 voltage capacitors also, - my heliboard can be set to work from 81 Voltage to 94.9 voltage.
I run most of my programs at 85 voltage then I can reduce the voltage a bit to reduce the speed overall in that program or vice versa.
I tried yesterday to fast shoot and I was not able to cock and shoot fast enough to experience that it would not fire.

I chatted with Jack (heliboard) last year about adding a charge / discharge protection board between the lipo and the Heliboard.
(Since I am a bit stupid i managed to forget to switch off the rifle 3 times running the Lipo empty)
I did install the protection board but since then I never forgot to switch of since.
Forgetting to switch off the rifle and running a Lipo empty is really devastating for the Lipo. It will kill it for sure.
Anyway he told me that the re-charging time can be checked by following

Something to tjek from a reply I received from Jack...
"After a shot ,if you release and press and hold rapidly you will see the remaining voltage on the capacitors.
If you see <15v then the pulse is too long and withdraws almost all the energy. After this you are starting to stress the battery.
The re-charging current from empty capacitors has a peak of max 1.5 amperes, much lower than rc batteries are able to deliver."

Just something to check?

Good investigation :)

Claus
 
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I had a RWHP.22 running the heliboard with the remote switch run to the battery compartment as well.
I never messed with it much once I set it up, but then again I also never had speed delay issues shooting my RW either.
Nonetheless, I did find that when shooting speed with my RW, I'd hit that safety switch to the off position always when in speeeeeeeed mode. I may bring tape this year to EBR, just in case.

Anyway, I see huge advantage using the heliboard, lots of flexibility and easily adjustable. But there is nothing wrong the standard low med hi settings that come standard with the RW either. The RW board is quality, but its just not as user friendly as the heliboard, nor does the standard board offer the opportunity to change settings on the fly (standard board requires purchase of additional programming interface at $300+) However, it should also be noted that if you put a heli in your Red Wolf or Pulsar, it might void the warranty by Daystate.
 
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Questions and more questions. I have a Gen 1 .22HP. Last time to AoA I had them upgrade/change the hard parts to Gen2 (Hardened hammer I believe) in anticipation of getting a Helliboard.
Mine is currently shooting the Redesigns on High at 910 FPS 1" at 50 yards and the 18.3 on med around 1000 FPS, 0.5" at 50 yards.
Which board to get??? The Gen1 board with 7.1v or his Gen2 board with 11. 1 IIRC. Won't the new board have the upgraded capacitors for more power?
Will it be build from scratch or already come with tables loaded?
Can you adjust all the tables in Excel and upload them or click the trigger like the videos?

Jack will be back tomorrow so just curious.
Smitty
 
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