I plan on ordering a new FX Wildcat soon, but would like to ditch the all black look. I considered having it dipped from the dealer, but don't really feel like waiting and would like to have the option of touching it up over time. Has anyone here tried plastic specific spray paint or hydro dipping one of these "soft touch" stocks? If so, how did it hold up?
Has Anyone Painted the "Soft Touch" Stock on the FX Wildcat? How did it hold up?
- Thread starter JohnnyRambles
- Start date
TRUCK BED LINER PEELS CHIPS FLAKES OFF. But easy to touch up. Ask me how I know and this includes painting over the Walnut stock too which was such a shameful IDIOTIC MOMENT at that time 
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I would like to hear the answer to that also I am not a big fan of the whole black look either and I was planning on having mine hydro dipped when it arrives I guess I didn't realize it was a soft-touch finish. Call me crazy but I've been looking around to see if I could have mine hydro dipped in a walnut pattern
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You can apply a color coating to anything; the key is surface preparation and selecting a like coating that has the same hardness and or flexibility of the surface to be coated.
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Like Felix said, preparation is the key. The softer the stock material, the more it can flex and is prone to chipping and flaking.
There are wood patterns used for hydro dipping these days that are so realistic and good looking it's crazy...All kind of different woods, lots of character, beautiful patterns, colors and designs.
Lets face it, not everyone can afford a custom, $1000 stock for an air gun, or any gun for that matter. Almost nobody would be able to tell the difference with some of these designs because they look so good. Without inspecting it closely anyway. I'd love to see the finished product when you're finished if you decide to have it done.
Have a good one!
Stoti
There are wood patterns used for hydro dipping these days that are so realistic and good looking it's crazy...All kind of different woods, lots of character, beautiful patterns, colors and designs.
Lets face it, not everyone can afford a custom, $1000 stock for an air gun, or any gun for that matter. Almost nobody would be able to tell the difference with some of these designs because they look so good. Without inspecting it closely anyway. I'd love to see the finished product when you're finished if you decide to have it done.
Have a good one!
Stoti
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Back when I owned/operated my custom shops,
I used to offer 'soft touch finishes'. The only brand/type I sprayed was Alsa.
Alsa was always one of the leaders - [if not The Leader] in automotive / custom / industrial paint applications.
From their regular lines to their custom and special effect lines, I've always been beyond impressed!
Their soft touch system was Awesome!
https://alsacorp.com/?s=soft+touch+paint&search=
If I still had a shop and means to spray [professional quality level] this is the only way that I'd go.
All that said - Fast forward to now.. No shop, no spray equipment, etc..
When I wanted to do a soft touch topcoat to refinish / protect my P15,
I opted to go the rattle-can PlastiDip route. If/when done correctly, the stuff actually works great!
[I accidentally got semi-gloss vs. the flat/matte that I wanted, but, the finish still looks / feels nice]
*** Surface Prep is almost always 75%+ of the key to having things adhere and cure properly.
With the PlastiDip sprays, things are Much More Forgiving. That's always a nice thing..
There's a few shots: Prep / Curing / Reassembled:
The final topcoat gave a nice added layer or protection to the OEM wood finish,
it enables me [or someone else] to **remove the finish - Which is a nice option,
and if I had to describe the actual feel..
Well, it's not 100% the same as 'soft-touch', but, it does offer a nice feel..
It's a soft / rubbery / grippy / tacky sort of coating.
As soon as I find the space / time again, I'll probably even do a re-coat on this one..
Again, I mentioned wanting 'flat/matte', not 'semi-gloss', but I received the wrong stuff..
I'd like to re-shoot in flat/matte. The nice thing is - It can just be sprayed over the existing coats
with next to no effort other than some basic prep and pre-cleaning.
Sam -
I used to offer 'soft touch finishes'. The only brand/type I sprayed was Alsa.
Alsa was always one of the leaders - [if not The Leader] in automotive / custom / industrial paint applications.
From their regular lines to their custom and special effect lines, I've always been beyond impressed!
Their soft touch system was Awesome!
https://alsacorp.com/?s=soft+touch+paint&search=
If I still had a shop and means to spray [professional quality level] this is the only way that I'd go.
All that said - Fast forward to now.. No shop, no spray equipment, etc..
When I wanted to do a soft touch topcoat to refinish / protect my P15,
I opted to go the rattle-can PlastiDip route. If/when done correctly, the stuff actually works great!
[I accidentally got semi-gloss vs. the flat/matte that I wanted, but, the finish still looks / feels nice]
*** Surface Prep is almost always 75%+ of the key to having things adhere and cure properly.
With the PlastiDip sprays, things are Much More Forgiving. That's always a nice thing..
There's a few shots: Prep / Curing / Reassembled:
The final topcoat gave a nice added layer or protection to the OEM wood finish,
it enables me [or someone else] to **remove the finish - Which is a nice option,
and if I had to describe the actual feel..
Well, it's not 100% the same as 'soft-touch', but, it does offer a nice feel..
It's a soft / rubbery / grippy / tacky sort of coating.
As soon as I find the space / time again, I'll probably even do a re-coat on this one..
Again, I mentioned wanting 'flat/matte', not 'semi-gloss', but I received the wrong stuff..
I'd like to re-shoot in flat/matte. The nice thing is - It can just be sprayed over the existing coats
with next to no effort other than some basic prep and pre-cleaning.
Sam -
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You've probably seen these before but here they are again. Note, these did not have the FX soft touch but were just hard synthetic. After hydro dipping the shop applies a soft touch coating. Gets you're camo and soft touch combined. They feel great in hand and so far its been pretty durable. Had 5 done so far and 4 there right now getting dipped this weekend. Plus maybe a couple more in a week or two..not all mine of course.
I would talk it over with your shop and see what they have to say.
I would talk it over with your shop and see what they have to say.
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Mine was Hydro dipped before I bought it . Local Gun stores have local recomendations
sfor
Nice! I like that pattern.
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BTW, [with auto grade materials anyways]
If there's need to shoot any type of material that bends/flexes/twists,
there will be another step or two..
*Adhesion Promoter [Bonds the coats to the surface]
*Flex Additive [Adds flexibility to the topcoats after they're cured]
The two combined will allow the primer/paint/clear to properly adhere
with both a chemical and/or tooth [physical] bond, as well as flex.
I've painted countless polyurethane, plastic, rubber, fiberglass, etc.
parts over the years, and those are two chems / steps that I always used.
The same process can actually be used with *some 'bedliner finishes'...
This is one of my old airbag'd Mighty Max minitrucks..
It was a 'dragger', so no fancy paintjob.. Just 'flat black'.
Murdered out "Murder Max". haha
I used Duplicolor brand bedliner coat in the 1 gal container,
thinned I believe 3 parts reducer to 1 part bed coat..
"Bulldog Adhesion Promoter" was 1st sprayed to the entire truck..
That's what guaranteed the coats to bond and stay stuck!
Sam -
If there's need to shoot any type of material that bends/flexes/twists,
there will be another step or two..
*Adhesion Promoter [Bonds the coats to the surface]
*Flex Additive [Adds flexibility to the topcoats after they're cured]
The two combined will allow the primer/paint/clear to properly adhere
with both a chemical and/or tooth [physical] bond, as well as flex.
I've painted countless polyurethane, plastic, rubber, fiberglass, etc.
parts over the years, and those are two chems / steps that I always used.
The same process can actually be used with *some 'bedliner finishes'...
This is one of my old airbag'd Mighty Max minitrucks..
It was a 'dragger', so no fancy paintjob.. Just 'flat black'.
Murdered out "Murder Max". haha
I used Duplicolor brand bedliner coat in the 1 gal container,
thinned I believe 3 parts reducer to 1 part bed coat..
"Bulldog Adhesion Promoter" was 1st sprayed to the entire truck..
That's what guaranteed the coats to bond and stay stuck!
Sam -
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There are some really good ones available online, you just have to look. This is just one sample page I found with a quick search. There are a ton available.
Stoti
Stoti
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As stated the key is to insure that
1. adhesion many of the plastics and rubbers outgas causing issues with your base chipping. I do not know what “soft touch” paint is used on the stocks many of the companies that sell quality hydrographic dips also sell some very good adhesion promoters.
2. You will need to use a primer, base, and clear coat that has the same flexibility. Don’t skimp on your hydrographic this is important find an actual supplier not some deal on amazon or other cheap source, liquid print here in Tyler TX is a great source of both your supplies and advice , they can also do the dip
3. Hydrographic application has some very precise temperature limitations along with angles and application tricks to keep the graphics looking good it takes a lot of practice.
1. adhesion many of the plastics and rubbers outgas causing issues with your base chipping. I do not know what “soft touch” paint is used on the stocks many of the companies that sell quality hydrographic dips also sell some very good adhesion promoters.
2. You will need to use a primer, base, and clear coat that has the same flexibility. Don’t skimp on your hydrographic this is important find an actual supplier not some deal on amazon or other cheap source, liquid print here in Tyler TX is a great source of both your supplies and advice , they can also do the dip
3. Hydrographic application has some very precise temperature limitations along with angles and application tricks to keep the graphics looking good it takes a lot of practice.
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Mine was Hydro dipped before I bought it . Local Gun stores have local recomendations
sfor
I'd love to get mine done similar to this
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Great looking guns! I'll probably end up going the DIY route, not sure about which method yet. Either way, I'll try and post up here when if it's done. Thanks for all the replies! John.
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Mine was Hydro dipped before I bought it . Local Gun stores have local recomendations
sfor
I love this pattern but I can't find it
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Don’t forget your base color changes the pattern color
here is something similar
https://www.liquidprintone.com/store/film-gallery/military-urban-camo-film-gallery/multi-cam-2/
here is something similar
https://www.liquidprintone.com/store/film-gallery/military-urban-camo-film-gallery/multi-cam-2/
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Thats a pretty sick color too...
It’s called red cobra
https://www.liquidprintone.com/store/film-gallery/animal-prints-film-gallery/red-cobra-film-gallery/
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