I’d have rebuilt the Hill pumps that got junked for ya at no cost other than shipping. If anyone else has any older Hill sitting around maybe we can get ya aired up.
I’ve moved up to this Alkin W31 Mariner.
I kept my Hill MK III. It’s an excellent pump and easy to rebuild. Enough rebuild/reseal parts, pure silicone grease, for anything needed for a lifetime. Nothing in them that can’t be fixed or replaced.
I actually miss the exercise but I shoot my PCP’s more. I don’t care if a airgun is a air hog any longer. The compressor has allowed me to get into .22 to .257 slugs. I wouldn’t want to be hand pumping for this endeavor or waiting on the old Shoebox.
The advice on taking breaks is a must if you want it to last. Depending on the climate you pump in makes a big difference (Arizona Desert dry or Hawaiian tropical humidity) but if you maintain your pump, it will last. Moisture & heat are going to build up in your pump. That’s just Thermal Dynamics. So here’s what I think you should know & do.
Any hand pump I’ve ever had is cranked together overly tight from factory. A padded vice & proper wrenches are required. Once any hand pump is sealed it only needs to be hand tightened. And, always lean on it slightly & spin handle clockwise 3-4 revs. Gets the lube at bottom of base and ensures piston is screwed in. I have an extra but this is pumps. They require maintenance like any compressor.
That’s usually the hardest part about a reseal. Once you break a pump down, it should be degreased & wiped clean. A shop rag pushed through with a dowel. If your pump is maintained and lubricated correctly you’ll see beads of moisture in main compression tube cylinder during the recommended break down & cleaning. Depends on the climate and amount of use. Be warned I’ve seen used hand pumps with excessive corrosion in them.
The common problem is the tiny SAE #005 main piston seal. It’s a friction bearing ring and simply will eventually wear out. Not all O-rings are created equal and Hill’s patented green main seal lasts longer than any others I’ve tried. Every O-ring should have 100% pure silicone grease on them when installed. Main tube that houses piston and outer tube rides on should be wiped clean and lubed when dry, or black grease seen at base. Silicone is clear. It turns black as the big friction/static bearing ring wears.
Every pump I’ve seen uses ball check valves at top. One or two, either way, these should not be lubed up. Just wiped clean during maintenance so they can do their job without sticking and causing the pump to become locked up. The air flow holes they sit in should be cleaned well with Q-tips. Be careful not to loose those. They’re replaceable but no airgun place carries them. McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc. The O-ring Store online is where I get any type/size/material/Durometer needed.
I wouldn’t buy a 4 stage.
In comparison the Benjamin pumps were horrible. I’m talking loose tolerance wearing out monthly or faster. Junk unless modified.
I’ve got a donated G7 in parts with a new kit, & a FX 4 stage. I’m not affiliated with Ernest Hill pumps in any way but I will say they’re the best pump I’ve ever used.
I’ve heard BULL pumps are built well but I’ve never tried one. They’re sold online. I don’t know about pre sized kits or support.
I’m gonna warn you about this last thing & go top off my SCBA. The manufacturers don’t usually offer service. The company that last serviced the 4 stage charged the guy over $200 to reseal & ship back. That’s not cool at all.
If you’re going to hand pump I suggest an ad for a Hill MK3 or ask vendor if any new old stock is available.