Is anyone using an oil/water seperator for their GX4 compressor? Like one that's rated for 350 bar?
Gx4 moisture seperator
- Thread starter Stewy1412
- Start date
I run a standard Amazon filter on my CS4 and have no problems filling my crown to 250bar. I also have a small secondary filter from my hand pump for added moisture removal.
Creation Core High Pressure PCP Hand Pump Air Filter Water-Oil Sparator with Female and Male Quick Connect for High Pressure Air Compressor Pump 30Mpa Blue https://a.co/d/afWyNEu
Creation Core High Pressure PCP Hand Pump Air Filter Water-Oil Sparator with Female and Male Quick Connect for High Pressure Air Compressor Pump 30Mpa Blue https://a.co/d/afWyNEu
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I was getting at are you actually filling something to 350bar? Or do you just want one because your compressor is rated for it. Sorry for confusion
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I seem to recall seeing a water trap / filter that was rated for 6000 PSI but I am not able to find it. I believe it was about $400.
This $400 Alpha wasn't the one I remember, but it appears that the max working pressure on the Alpha filter is 5000 PSI. You would think they would list the working pressure on the website selling these filters, but none I checked did. Not quite the exact 5076 PSI of 350 BAR but pretty darned close. The gauge on the CS4 isn't accurate enough to discern between 5000 PSI and 5145 PSI anyway. Maybe the one on the Alpha is? ( I doubt it.)
As I have commented / suggested in similar threads, the CS4 water trap is very efficient so you may not need an additional water trap / filter for filling the tiny air cylinder on the GK1. The key to keeping moisture out of your gun is to bleed the water out on the CS4 purge valve frequently. Just a quick open close of the valve while the compressor is running will show you how much water is in there. You can easily test it on your CS4 with a small, inexpensive water / oil filter that you have filled with color changing molecular sieve beads at 300 BAR. Since you are only using it for a short duration to test efficiency you can get away with having the beads not enclosed in a plastic tube. Do use some kind of a fiber filter on the gun side to keep dust / particles from the beads from entering your gun. When done testing, remove the beads so you don't get corrosion in the filter.
Maybe purge it every 1-2 minutes to start and see how it goes. If you are getting signs of moisture in the color changing beads, and you want the driest air you can get you are probably going to have to spend almost as much as you did for your compressor for a 350 BAR rated filter.
If you end up getting a large filter that handles 350 BAR (I would want one that does 400 BAR for possible future use) you will probably want to install a one way valve on the compressor side and a shutoff valve with a bleed valve on the gun side so you can keep the filter at 350 BAR, otherwise your gun fills are going to take a lot more time than without those widgets in place.
This $400 Alpha wasn't the one I remember, but it appears that the max working pressure on the Alpha filter is 5000 PSI. You would think they would list the working pressure on the website selling these filters, but none I checked did. Not quite the exact 5076 PSI of 350 BAR but pretty darned close. The gauge on the CS4 isn't accurate enough to discern between 5000 PSI and 5145 PSI anyway. Maybe the one on the Alpha is? ( I doubt it.)
As I have commented / suggested in similar threads, the CS4 water trap is very efficient so you may not need an additional water trap / filter for filling the tiny air cylinder on the GK1. The key to keeping moisture out of your gun is to bleed the water out on the CS4 purge valve frequently. Just a quick open close of the valve while the compressor is running will show you how much water is in there. You can easily test it on your CS4 with a small, inexpensive water / oil filter that you have filled with color changing molecular sieve beads at 300 BAR. Since you are only using it for a short duration to test efficiency you can get away with having the beads not enclosed in a plastic tube. Do use some kind of a fiber filter on the gun side to keep dust / particles from the beads from entering your gun. When done testing, remove the beads so you don't get corrosion in the filter.
Maybe purge it every 1-2 minutes to start and see how it goes. If you are getting signs of moisture in the color changing beads, and you want the driest air you can get you are probably going to have to spend almost as much as you did for your compressor for a 350 BAR rated filter.
If you end up getting a large filter that handles 350 BAR (I would want one that does 400 BAR for possible future use) you will probably want to install a one way valve on the compressor side and a shutoff valve with a bleed valve on the gun side so you can keep the filter at 350 BAR, otherwise your gun fills are going to take a lot more time than without those widgets in place.
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Do you know exactly what valves and where to get them? The one way and shut off with bleeder?
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I would love to use nitrogen. Unfortunately some of us live in places where using Nitrogen to fill my 3 large tanks every week for a year would cost more than buying a $6000 diving compressor.
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I don't know if the links on this post are still valid, but there are other options for all the parts mentioned. Just search the airgun sellers websites, Amazon, Aliexpress and Ebay.
Fill multiple guns without dumping the air from your large water trap/filter each time
This is an update to some older posts of mine with new information about the defective bleed valve on the small Tuxing filter with the shutoff valve on it. If you buy this part, be sure to replace the bleed valve assembly with a better built bleed valve so as to not have a dangerous situation...
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First off what is your Idea of a lrg size tank ? how many cubic feet? How many shots do you take a day??
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The only local place that does nitrogen has it in a liquid state in a tank called a duer and it costs more per month just to rent the tank that is about 5 feet tall and 2 feet around, than some of my compressors. Filling is very expensive as well. I did all the math last year and it was totally out of the question. I wish there was cheap nitrogen around here....
I fill about 10 guns ranging from a tiny cylinder Beeman 2728(?) pistol to several 550 CC carbon bottles, SCBA tanks 1 - 30 minute, 2 - 45 minute and 1 - 60 minute. I fill the tanks to about 300 bar with my Yong Heng then take them all to 310 bar with the CS4. We have 4 to 5 shooters slinging lead each week, in the family.
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There may be a welding gas supplier that can set you up with nitrogen if you decide to go that route.
What city in WI do you live in ?
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Well the weld shop you work at probably has nitrogen if they do any purging, but if not talk to your boss and tell him you would like to get N2 for your airguns and ask the rep from the supplier or the driver that delivers tanks and see what you can arrange and what it will cost welding regulator for mig or tig will work just fine on a nitrogen tank . Thats what I use set about 25 cuft hr on the flowgauge works perfect. Hey and with Nitrogen you run NO Oxidizers into your compressor or guns no detonationin the pump and your guns will shoot faster due to n2 being a smaller lighter molecule
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