I've done the same thing and have had similar results. Even the air that exhausts from the bleed valve of the CS4 has a lot less moisture than when I bleed my Benjamin or Hill compressors.
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GX CS4 Compressor - Initial Impressions
- Thread starter FLgunner
- Start date
FLgunner
I see in the first post that you flushed the cooling system with water first. Is there a drain plug for draining the cooling fluid? Could you explain how you flushed the system? I did a search for "CS4 flush" on the forum and didn't see anything describing the process.
-PJ
I see in the first post that you flushed the cooling system with water first. Is there a drain plug for draining the cooling fluid? Could you explain how you flushed the system? I did a search for "CS4 flush" on the forum and didn't see anything describing the process.
-PJ
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I went back and re-read all of the posts and I now see the blog that was referenced that covers the details on flushing the system:
Setting Up & Testing the GX CS4 PCP 400 Bar/5,800 PSI Air Compressor
In the last post I discussed purchasing a new GX CS4 compressor and showed you some photos of it out of the box. In this post, I want to give you some recommendations on setting the unit up and tes…
blog.roninsgrips.com
I'm reading through it now.
-PJ
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I did it next to my kitched sink. I filled it with distilled water and then turned on the main switch so the coolant pump ran for a minute or so to flush everything out of the lines. Then turn it off, removed power and just tilted the compressor sideways over the sink to drain the coolant reservoir. I then filled the tank with a 50/50 pre-mix of Dexcool and turned it back on so the pump ran. After the lines and radiator was full, I added a little more Dexcool to top off the reservoir.
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Thanks for that write up, very useful.
I just got a CS4 last week, and made sure I flushed and drained the water that came in it. To drain it I pulled off the "push" connect hoses, held them lower than the system and tilted it to get everything out.
When I filled it I had to gently blow through the reservoir port to prime the pump, and just topped up the level. I only used about 200 to 300 ml of solution.
Overall, quite straight forward, but making sure the pump is primed is important.
I just got a CS4 last week, and made sure I flushed and drained the water that came in it. To drain it I pulled off the "push" connect hoses, held them lower than the system and tilted it to get everything out.
When I filled it I had to gently blow through the reservoir port to prime the pump, and just topped up the level. I only used about 200 to 300 ml of solution.
Overall, quite straight forward, but making sure the pump is primed is important.
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I’m curious how many check valves are in these gx compressors? Where are they located and how to best service them? I’m convinced from my hand pumps that failure of small compressors is largely due to these check valves not working. The hand pump ones need servicing a lot. When they stop workin as they should that HPA air in the line flows back into the guts of the working parts. Easy to tell on a hand pump not whatsoever on a loud compressor of course until the back pressure kills it. Am I crazy or does this make sense?
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FLgunner
The first time I ran distilled water in it I had to take the compressor and tilt, turn, rotate, gyrate, etc several times to finally get it to prime. After that I screwed up because instead of tilting the reservoir to the side and pouring it out I tried draining all of the water by rotating, tilting, etc and then I had to re-prime it all over again. After the 5th time I came to realize I didn't need to drain it completely and I just tilted it to the side and drained it then refilled it. I was able to do this 5 more times fairly quickly without having to re-prime the pump. It finally was free of specks and sediment.
Initially my coolant reservoir looked like it had rusty water in it and after flushing it several times I saw what looked like slime and algae in the system. There were rusty looking specks everywhere inside the cooling system and one of the hoses coming from the top of the piston cooling cylinder to the radiator had orange rusty stains in it. The clamp on the electric water pump was rusted from what looks like when they drained the water when testing the unit it somehow spilled into the case:
There must have been a lot of sediment in the water as there were what looked like hard water stains on the bottom and sides of the case. It was a little disappointing to see, but I guess it should be expected seeing where it was assembled.
I ended up using Zerex 50/50 coolant per the blog (although the blogger used a 70/30 mix). I filled the system several times with Zerex and drained it to try and get the distilled water out of the system and get a better concentration/ratio of 50/50 coolant mix and not a more watered down ratio because of the distilled water I previously used to flush the gunk out.
Some things I learned:
1. You definitely want to take the orange case cover off so that you can scope out the hoses as well as see where there are air bubbles in the hoses and radiator.
2. Be sure to tilt, angle, rotate the compressor in just about every direction (while the compressor is running) to get the air out of the radiator (be sure you have the coolant cap on and tight).
3. Squeeze the braided coolant hose tightly and let the water pump build pressure to bleed out the bubbles and air pockets (this really helped me finally get the system primed).
I have the system set up and ready to start filling and testing. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.
-PJ
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Mine had some sediment in it, but not nearly what you described. I just flushed the system once, dumped the reservoir and filled it with coolant. I wasn't that worried about the mix ratio since the manual indicated it could be run on straight distilled water. Quite honestly, as slow as it runs, plain distilled water is probably all you need.
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FLgunner
I was more concerned about using something with corrosion inhibitors after seeing the rusty specks and stains. I would have expected aluminum and plastic to comprise the cooling system, but it looks like there might be something that can rust.
I guess when it gives up the ghost I will check it out and see if I can find out where the orange sediment is coming from.
-PJ
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Yea, that part was strange. I had the while particles but none that looked to be rust. I would think the whole coolant system would be plastic and aluminum. And, if they tested it using their specs, there shouldn't have been any mineral deposits if they were using distilled water.
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Man, I was thinking of getting a CS4 when they come back around, but after reading what you guys went through, I'm having second thoughts. I don't have a degree in engineering.
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LOL! I think he went well above and beyond! Like I said, I filled it with distilled water, ran the cooling system for a minute to flush the lines, dumped the water down the sink and refilled with the 50/50 mixture of coolant. Mines working fine and the temp has never gotten to within 10 degrees of body temperature, so it’s sure not going to over heat!!! The manual says either or for the water or coolant. I do recommend flushing the system just to ensure you get and debris from manufacturing out of the system, but again, mine was running clean after one flush.
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? They're easy peasy. Add coolant, plug it in, turn it on and top off the coolant. Ready to fill...
Add a filter if you want
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Max B.
I wouldn't let that deter you, I have crazy luck so it is expected for me. Flush the system until it is clean, fill it with distilled water or coolant and you should be fine. One extra thing I would recommend is using a moisture/water separator.
-PJ
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Hello All,
ordered my CS4 to days ago and am waiting on the porch for delivery, I too want to know how the grease pot distributes the lubrication to all the necessary points. Seems like a lot of channels to clog or clean eventually, Inquiring minds what to Know!
Good luck to us all with the CS4.
Take Care
ordered my CS4 to days ago and am waiting on the porch for delivery, I too want to know how the grease pot distributes the lubrication to all the necessary points. Seems like a lot of channels to clog or clean eventually, Inquiring minds what to Know!
Good luck to us all with the CS4.
Take Care
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I may have missed it, but any recommendations on a run hour meter? I believe there are ones that sense either movement or power usage to log run time.
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OK!, got mine off the porch and find there was NO Grease in the pot...... You guy's better check the system, got an email to the shipper to find out what the hell is going on ,But wtf, I was expecting better........................ ankul is the supplier/shipper.
see the Black diaphragm, for a off the head description.
![100_1016[1].JPG](https://www.airgunnation.com/attachments/100_1016-1-jpg.350205/ "100_1016[1].JPG")
see the Black diaphragm, for a off the head description.
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Me too, 20 mins ago ! Haven't checked the grease, so I will now... Yes, filled with yellow stuff.
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That isn't the pot. The pot is the part you removed. It has a piston that extrudes grease into the area pictured.
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