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GX-CS4 $529/$477 with discount code

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Ta-Ta Toothie said:
Unless you picked up a blue light special cell phone charger, it's listed and has to be.
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Really? UL is a private company and any company that wants to PAY for them to test their products can do just that. But they have to PAY for those tests. But there is NO law requiring their products be tested by UL.

If you know of such a law, then please post the links to it. PLEASE!

No, no, PLEASE post the law that requires ANY company to PAY for UL to test their product. Go ahead... PLEASE!

All my best!

Kerry
 
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BackStop said:
Really? UL is a private company and any company that wants to PAY for them to test their products and do just that.

There is NO law requiring ANY product to be tested by UL to my knowledge. If you know of such a law, then please post the links to it.

No, no, PLEASE post the law that requires ANY company to PAY for UL to test their product. Go ahead... PLEASE!

All my best!

Kerry
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No, you can look that up yourself. You can start with the NEC.
 
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Ta-Ta Toothie said:
No, you can look that up yourself. You can start with the NEC.
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So you want me to prove a negative? In this case, you want me to show proof that you are right? Please.

If you are so sure/certain that a UL listing is required by law, then certainly you can quote the law you are relying on?

No?

Sorry Charlie... You are simply wrong. Admit it and we will both move on.

Or prove it and I will humbly admit that I am wrong.

The proof is up to you because you are the one making the claim. Not me.

All my best!

Kerry
 
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Ta-Ta Toothie said:
Unless you picked up a blue light special cell phone charger, it's listed and has to be.
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Wrong, wrong, and... WRONG. Here are two of the best-known chargers in the world, RAV and Anker:

1707963478407.png


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The charger that came with my phone, my drone, my outdoor BT speaker... none are UL nor RU.

Underwriter's laboratory is a third-party certification company, and while it's NICE to have their seal of approval, it is FAR from necessary. And even with UL, some companies are allowed to use their symbol on their devices, even though UL has never tested their devices.

The UL logo has about as much meaning as ORGANIC.
 
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BlackICE said:

Are UL listed materials required by NEC?

As the title says. Are products I install daily, required to be UL listed? Or just listed for the application/purpose, such as direct burial? Say a product says, "suitable for direct burial, under bridges, manhole terminations....but then down in fine print says, "Note: Not UL listed"
forums.mikeholt.com
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No inspector I ever came across will pass you on none listed equipment. UL is just one of them that accept.

The relationship between NEC, UL, NRTL, NFPA 79, "Listed" and AHJ in industrial electrical installations - Right Hand Industrial - Wire, Cable & More

Adopted in all 50 states, the National Electric Code (NEC) or NFPA 70 is the set of rules and regulations for safe electrical design, installation and inspection of electrical wiring and equipment in residential, commercial and industrial occupancies alike. Whether you’re wiring a house or an...
righthandindustrial.com righthandindustrial.com
 
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SpringerScooter said:
Is it reasonable thinking, to plan on getting 50 fills before encountering major parts problems with a gx-cs4, or any other small compressor like this?
(88/98 c.f. tank, from 2500psi to 4500psi).
Im great with maintence, oil changes, and keeping an eye on temperatures while running.
Is that reasonable thinking, or perhaps way too optimistic?
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Mine has been relatively trouble free. At about 15-20 hours it did start to develop a loud squeal however. I partially stripped it down and discovered a crank bearing that appeared to be completely dry. I greased it with moly grease and reassembled it and about 4 hours later I have had no further problems.

I isolated the noise using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope, holding the handle against my ear and touching the tip to various places on the pump.
 
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redtrucker61 said:
You guys really have me thinking about getting one of these. It would free up some floor space compared to my Yong Heng and the 30 gallon water tote I keep next to it. Would be using it to top off my 6.8L tank. This should last me a long time. I only get a chance to go out and shoot 1 or 2 times a month.
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Do it!
Do it!
Do it!
 
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One thing I've got to say in favor of it is that when I stripped it down everything about it appeared to be solidly constructed. The radiator and fan assembly were about the only plastic parts I remember seeing on it and the metal parts were beefy and solid. Sometimes you'll be working on a product and thinking, "what a cheap POS, I should just throw this in the trash and walk away." I got none of that when I had the GX CS4 apart.
 
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F6Hawk said:
I find it odd that when watching YT videos on it, there are cylinders that are smooth and ones that are fluted for cooling. Here's hoping mine arrives with the flutes.
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Another interesting thing I discovered when I had the compressor partially disassembled was the uneven distribution of heat when it was running. I had been gauging the temperature by opening the radiator cap and dipping my finger in the coolant and by that standard it never got very hot. With the cover off on the other hand I could check the outside temperature of other parts of it and they got much hotter than the coolant ever did. It wasn't anything that scared me or made me think I had damaged the compressor, but it was much hotter than I had expected based on the temperature of the coolant.

Before running it with the cover off I would charge SCBA bottles for an hour or more at a time, but afterwards I cut that down to 20-30 minutes at a time with 10 minute cooling periods. That 20-30 minutes should be more than enough to charge a 580 or 700 cc bottle, but if you're charging a 60 minute SCBA tank it will take way longer.

I believe the manual says it can run for 4.5 hours at a time and perhaps it can, but be aware that the parts inside are heating up way more than anything on the outside of the compressor is.
 
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Sawney Bean said:
Another interesting thing I discovered when I had the compressor partially disassembled was the uneven distribution of heat when it was running. I had been gauging the temperature by opening the radiator cap and dipping my finger in the coolant and by that standard it never got very hot. With the cover off on the other hand I could check the outside temperature of other parts of it and they got much hotter than the coolant ever did. It wasn't anything that scared me or made me think I had damaged the compressor, but it was much hotter than I had expected based on the temperature of the coolant.

Before running it with the cover off I would charge SCBA bottles for an hour or more at a time, but afterwards I cut that down to 20-30 minutes at a time with 10 minute cooling periods. That 20-30 minutes should be more than enough to charge a 580 or 700 cc bottle, but if you're charging a 60 minute SCBA tank it will take way longer.

I believe the manual says it can run for 4.5 hours at a time and perhaps it can, but be aware that the parts inside are heating up way more than anything on the outside of the compressor is.
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Good to know, and thanks for sharing. I purchased this to help with temperature monitoring: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C39TKV4X

Also bought an hour meter. Plan to do a cylinder removal/teardown before I use it to get a peek at the insides, as well as to check out the bearing on the crank; read that one owner found a dry bearing there.
 
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MrP said:
Are there vibration based hour meters sensitive enough to work on the cs4? I have a cheap one and it seems the machine operates too smoothly to start the timer.
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Not much luck with those from what I've read on here. So I went with this:

Installed it vertically on the back panel, opposite side of the power cord.
 
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