Silly beginner question, but I can't seem to find any info on Google pertaining to the type of grease to use at the "break" part of my break barrel pellet guns. I just got a new Gamo rifle , and it came from the factory loaded with grease so it's good, my older one has none left and I would like to add some. I'm talking about the pivot point that breaks open , around where the pellet goes ,I understand the seals get silicone lube ,and not much not often, but I dunno what type of grease to use for the other .
Gun Grease
- Thread starter Sublimemoon0000
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Ballistol is an all purpose lube, cleaner, anti rust that a lot of us use. There might be something more specific to the application you asked about but Ballistol is great all around stuff. Can even use it on gun stocks with no worries.
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I want to throw in a question too. I understand Ballistol as a general airgun safe cleaner but with regards to grease I understand silicone grease is the safe choice for anything associated with high pressure air. Was up at the Kittery Trading post today and couldn't find anything in the gun cleaning product shelves that was plainly labelled as silicone or otherwise safe for airguns/HPA. Would be grateful for a recommendation with maybe a link so I can get some. Regards
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Silicone Grease is good for the seals themselves but does not work well for metal against metal parts. I would suggest you get some moly grease.
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I use Moly Grease you get in the little one ounce can. Air Venturi is one brand, there are several. I just use a Q tip and paint the lock up parts with it once or twice a year depending on how much you shoot a particular rifle.
Silicone oil for pivot points you cannot get too without disassembly and ONE DROP of silicone oil down the air transfer port hole every six months or so.
Less is more and the moly bonds to the metal and works even when it looks dry.
Kit
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Also, when oiling the pivot point / lever do not stand the rifle upright for a few days as the excess oil has a way of getting to the chamber.
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Moly grease for external pivots and contact points like detent chisels. Oil, silicone or otherwise has no place lubricating anywhere in on or around a springer. Oil washes out grease that protects parts better. Even RWS silicone oil can detonate and damage your gun if you accidentally put one drop too many down the transfer port. Oil doesn't have the load capability of grease and would have to be added periodically to maintain protection, thus making a mess of your gun.
Balistol is great for wiping down all parts of the gun. I love the stuff. It was developed for the German army in or about WWI as a does all protectant for wood, leather and metal infantry equipment. To this day it can't be beat in those combined roles. It's basically medical grade mineral oil. It's non toxic and environmentally safe too. Of all the great things it is, it's certainly not a lubricant..
Balistol is great for wiping down all parts of the gun. I love the stuff. It was developed for the German army in or about WWI as a does all protectant for wood, leather and metal infantry equipment. To this day it can't be beat in those combined roles. It's basically medical grade mineral oil. It's non toxic and environmentally safe too. Of all the great things it is, it's certainly not a lubricant..
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Expensive but excellent lube IMO is Krytox GPL-205 which I use in my HW95L. This lube was recommended after the new rifle damaged the piston seal from dieseling caused by the Weihrauch factory over oiling/greasing.
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Detent chisel!! That's the exact part I'm asking about, it looks like a chisel lol, makes sense . Ok so moly grease on that and silicone on the seals correct ?
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I'm confused because all over the Internet 100% silicone oil is said to be used on both the seals and a drop down the air chamber once every thousand shots , there's even YouTube videos made by umarex and daisy that has these guys putting silicone oil on the hinge points, the seals and down the air chamber . What am I missing ?
Also! What are you guys using to clean and preserve the finish on the outside metal on these break barrels ? I have a few rust spots starting on my prowler and I want to get rid of them ofcourse , but also I want to leave a protective coating on the outside and a nice shine .thank you!
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Don't believe everything you see on the internet. For over twenty years I was a high end dealer auto mechanic including eleven years as a BMW master technician. For a decade I was involved with drag racing and built several engines and transmissions. The last fourteen years I've been a railroad machinist. I know a little bit about mechanical things.
Re-read my post in this thread. I'm pretty sure I clearly explained why not to use oil, silicone or otherwise. Springers need very little lubrication. They just need a little of the right grease in the right places. To clean a gun and wipe it down at the end of the day I use a soft rag very lightly damped with Balistol.
Re-read my post in this thread. I'm pretty sure I clearly explained why not to use oil, silicone or otherwise. Springers need very little lubrication. They just need a little of the right grease in the right places. To clean a gun and wipe it down at the end of the day I use a soft rag very lightly damped with Balistol.
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Makes sense , do the synthetic seals ever need anything ? Specifically the ones around the pellet housing. When I push a pellet in, after a few I notice a little lead rubbing off on my finger, I'm sure it's getting on that seal as I push the pellet all the way down ,I know my finger makes contact with that seal. Does that need anything?
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There is a lot of nonsense discussed reg Silicone oil.
The original legend that it has disastrous consequences in airguns, probably came from in-pure grades, and uneducated use. Then we have silicanes, silicones and impure types.
Maybe 30 types and grades…
A decent Silicone gun oil like RWS chamber lube would have been pure Silicone and that is where to start.
Now, Silicone (even the correct stuff) may well cause a touch of galling if used on the breech lock up face.
This is the high pressure relocation of 2 steel surfaces, but i have never encountered it causing an issue on sliding fit surface like a piston in a piston chamber with the typical 0.2mm. clearance but because of all the jumping on the bandwagon on the web, you are being put off using a fantastic none drying lube for the seal, providing remarkable consistency which has never been bettered for that aspect by all these modern Molys etc….misinformed, or mis- user across the web ….causing the issues.
I once ran some Abbey 35 Silicone gun oil in a bearing with a rotating shaft, on a lathe all day at high speed without noticing a hint of galling and the silicone still wet and in place.
I have used it for eons on springer seals with never a single issue ..
The original legend that it has disastrous consequences in airguns, probably came from in-pure grades, and uneducated use. Then we have silicanes, silicones and impure types.
Maybe 30 types and grades…
A decent Silicone gun oil like RWS chamber lube would have been pure Silicone and that is where to start.
Now, Silicone (even the correct stuff) may well cause a touch of galling if used on the breech lock up face.
This is the high pressure relocation of 2 steel surfaces, but i have never encountered it causing an issue on sliding fit surface like a piston in a piston chamber with the typical 0.2mm. clearance but because of all the jumping on the bandwagon on the web, you are being put off using a fantastic none drying lube for the seal, providing remarkable consistency which has never been bettered for that aspect by all these modern Molys etc….misinformed, or mis- user across the web ….causing the issues.
I once ran some Abbey 35 Silicone gun oil in a bearing with a rotating shaft, on a lathe all day at high speed without noticing a hint of galling and the silicone still wet and in place.
I have used it for eons on springer seals with never a single issue ..
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The issue with silicone oil is that most including the RWS stuff will detonate in the compression chamber if you put one drop too much. I know, I've done it like a bone head. It's best avoided.
Also most oils including silicone will break down petroleum based greases. This usually washes the grease off the parts it was intended to protect. Oils in general don't like to stay on high load, vertical or overhead surfaces. Oils would have to be reapplied frequently to maintain protection. Grease is a better choice because it has a higher load capability and stays put longer. Oils in general have little place in a springer other than some trigger parts.
I don't want to argue, nothing I said is unfounded internet hype. Some of my springers have well over 50k shots with out lubrication issues. You use whatever works best for you.
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It detonates because it mixes badly with grease. Even a slight meniscus can cause detonation, or spot missed below the seal….If you do add it, the internals need to be very clean.
The flash point is crazy high…higher than most grease but the alternatives really do play havoc with seals over time.
Moly separates out causing inconsistency over time and can be a pain in the ass in cold temps.
Lithium can dry out ….its a real tricky subject..
The great British tuner Tony Leach advocates fine grad Silicone mixed with touch of graphite powder. He spent years of testing to arrive here …
I have zero problem with a hint of moly on the rear piston bearing if kept to a tiny hint rubbed in…
The flash point is crazy high…higher than most grease but the alternatives really do play havoc with seals over time.
Moly separates out causing inconsistency over time and can be a pain in the ass in cold temps.
Lithium can dry out ….its a real tricky subject..
The great British tuner Tony Leach advocates fine grad Silicone mixed with touch of graphite powder. He spent years of testing to arrive here …
I have zero problem with a hint of moly on the rear piston bearing if kept to a tiny hint rubbed in…
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For the internals I use a very light smear of grease around the shoulder of a Vortek seal and the ends piston.. The same grease will be very lightly rubbed on the spring and guides. As for which grease, it depends on the gun, condition of the sealing surface, the purpose of the gun and the climate its used in. I'll choose between Krytox, Almagard 3752 or the thinner tan petroleum based lube that comes with the Vortek kits. Honestly I'm not sure what the Vortek grease actually is but I've been using that since 2016 with good results. I don't argue with good results.
I never mix and match lubes in the same guns internals. Less is more when it comes to lubing the internals. It's very easy to overdo it and wind up with dieseling. Controlled dieseling will bump up power but can have adverse effects on accuracy. IMO it's best to run a clean gun if you want accuracy.
Outside the spring and compression chamber I use hi content molybdenum paste. This includes pivot bolts, fork shims, chisel detents an trigger sears. Moly paste is best lube I know of for these high load, heavy use items because it burnishes into the surface of the metal.
My first Hw30 has to have over 80k shots on it and amazingly still hasn't worn out the barrel pivot or compression tube. Ohhh it's been through 4 springs, probably 5 piston seals and the cocking linkage is a little floppy but all the main parts are still in good shape. I gotta be doing something right.
The only place I sometimes use oil, is a small drop on trigger pivots.
There's more than one one way to skin a cat. This is what's been working for me. Ymmv
I never mix and match lubes in the same guns internals. Less is more when it comes to lubing the internals. It's very easy to overdo it and wind up with dieseling. Controlled dieseling will bump up power but can have adverse effects on accuracy. IMO it's best to run a clean gun if you want accuracy.
Outside the spring and compression chamber I use hi content molybdenum paste. This includes pivot bolts, fork shims, chisel detents an trigger sears. Moly paste is best lube I know of for these high load, heavy use items because it burnishes into the surface of the metal.
My first Hw30 has to have over 80k shots on it and amazingly still hasn't worn out the barrel pivot or compression tube. Ohhh it's been through 4 springs, probably 5 piston seals and the cocking linkage is a little floppy but all the main parts are still in good shape. I gotta be doing something right.
The only place I sometimes use oil, is a small drop on trigger pivots.
There's more than one one way to skin a cat. This is what's been working for me. Ymmv
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