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N/A Guide Making on a Lathe For Beginners by a Beginner

So my goal for today was to make a video detailing how I make a TX200 guide out of acetal on a mini lathe. I spent the better part of the afternoon making this video only to discover during editing that all of my source material for the second half had no audio. Why you ask? Because I am dumb and forgot to charge my wireless mic. Now you may ask, "But Jon, why wouldn't you check your work as you went so you could catch things like this?" Well my answer to you would be the same as before. Because I am a dumb dumb.

Anyway, this is basically how I go about making the actual guide portion of the guide. If you would like I can upload the audio-less second half but OH MY GOSH is 15 minutes of video without audio hard to watch. I tried adding audio over it but that was way too much work trying to remember why my hands were doing this and that and honestly trying to make lathe noises by mouth is not easy and I started getting dizzy from the constant screeching. Lessons were learned.

Any who, here is my beginner guide. If you are not a beginner or notice something I can/should do differently, I am more than open to critiques here. Honestly I would appreciate them because I have zero formal training and am basically winging it.


Sorry for the poor audio by the way. It was my first attempt at any sort of real video and definitely need to work on how I record the audio especially when dealing with background noise. Live and learn!

As a final thought, I likely would have done this guide as a single piece in the future. I was mostly experimenting with re-using the factory base on my own guide and the only way to learn new things is to try new things. I will see how this setup holds up with time and go from there.

Here is a screanshot from my audio-less video that shows the completed main guide:

20231104_190941.jpg


A top hat was also made and added after this but I don't really have any good pictures of it.
 
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honestly trying to make lathe noises by mouth is not easy and I started getting dizzy from the constant screeching.
:ROFLMAO:

If you are not a beginner or notice something I can/should do differently, I am more than open to critiques here. Honestly I would appreciate them because I have zero formal training and am basically winging it.
I'm in the same boat. I like the ingenuity of using the live center to peck a starting point for the drill bit. If you don't already have a set of center drills, they will come in very handy to make a starting point in anything harder (aluminum, brass, steel, etc.), Thick-bodied to resist deflecting the way a drill bit does.
center drill.jpg



A HSS set like this will suffice for most hobby shop tasks. If your projects eventually wander into hard-to-drill materials, look for a set of M35 cobalt center drills.
 
:ROFLMAO:


I'm in the same boat. I like the ingenuity of using the live center to peck a starting point for the drill bit. If you don't already have a set of center drills, they will come in very handy to make a starting point in anything harder (aluminum, brass, steel, etc.), Thick-bodied to resist deflecting the way a drill bit does.
View attachment 403174


A HSS set like this will suffice for most hobby shop tasks. If your projects eventually wander into hard-to-drill materials, look for a set of M35 cobalt center drills.
Awesome tip thank you! I do plan on attempting some fancier steel guided and these will definitely come in handy
 
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You would love a keyless tailstock chuck. An adjustable carriage stop, and a dial indicator clamp for the bed with a 0-2 indicator. I made a bed clamp that does both.
IMG_3837.JPG

A caliper measures fast but I get a better feel and accuracy with a micrometer that measures to .0001.("tenths")
I've never seen a machinist beat his tailstock with a claw hammer. That's wild! 😍
 
  • Haha
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Don't ever take a picture of your chuck key resting in the chuck. You'll get flamed all day! You're gonna hear about that in the YT comments. If you haven't already

I knew someone was going to say something the second I saw it there 😆

You would love a keyless tailstock chuck. An adjustable carriage stop, and a dial indicator clamp for the bed with a 0-2 indicator. I made a bed clamp that does both.
View attachment 403185

A caliper measures fast but I get a better feel and accuracy with a micrometer that measures to .0001.("tenths")
I've never seen a machinist beat his tailstock with a claw hammer. That's wild! 😍

They were love taps. One of these days I'll learn how to center it so I don't have to beat it onto submission. The worst part is I was tapping it the wrong way in the video. Caught it before my final cuts luckily and adjusted it back.
 
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Thanks for the video and the homemade airgun content. I can appreciate a professional tuner and the home tuner alike. Your lathe looks great. I'm sure you'll get that tail squared away. IDK, I've been beating on my table saw fence for 30 years.
Thank you sir. Glad to hear I'm not the only fan of percussive maintenance on the forum
 
:ROFLMAO:


I'm in the same boat. I like the ingenuity of using the live center to peck a starting point for the drill bit. If you don't already have a set of center drills, they will come in very handy to make a starting point in anything harder (aluminum, brass, steel, etc.), Thick-bodied to resist deflecting the way a drill bit does.
View attachment 403174


A HSS set like this will suffice for most hobby shop tasks. If your projects eventually wander into hard-to-drill materials, look for a set of M35 cobalt center drills.
Harbor Freight $8.00 ...........
 
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Nothing like the chuck key in the chest after it was forgotten in chuck :cautious: .
I don't so much worry about MY body. I worry more about gacking my machines! Neither of my lathes have any marks on the ways and I've been using one of them almost 50 years. Not every day or in a production setting mind you.

It's very hard to find vintage American iron in good condition. Took me years to find this one and then put it back in this condition. Was left unused for about 1/2 century. It was special ordered with a custom made thread winding contraption from South Bend Lathe works ..............................
IMG_3567(1).jpg
and it had never been used as a lathe as such. All the ways are in perfect condition.
 
I don't so much worry about MY body. I worry more about gacking my machines! Neither of my lathes have any marks on the ways and I've been using one of them almost 50 years. Not every day or in a production setting mind you.

It's very hard to find vintage American iron in good condition. Took me years to find this one and then put it back in this condition. Was left unused for about 1/2 century. It was special ordered with a custom made thread winding contraption from South Bend Lathe works ..............................View attachment 403322and it had never been used as a lathe as such. All the ways are in perfect condition.
That is a VERY cool looking machine. I'd be upset if I threw a chuck key into the finish as well
 
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I don't so much worry about MY body. I worry more about gacking my machines! Neither of my lathes have any marks on the ways and I've been using one of them almost 50 years. Not every day or in a production setting mind you.

It's very hard to find vintage American iron in good condition. Took me years to find this one and then put it back in this condition. Was left unused for about 1/2 century. It was special ordered with a custom made thread winding contraption from South Bend Lathe works ..............................View attachment 403322and it had never been used as a lathe as such. All the ways are in perfect condition.
It's a Beauty :)
 
Any who, here is my beginner guide. If you are not a beginner or notice something I can/should do differently, I am more than open to critiques here. Honestly I would appreciate them because I have zero formal training and am basically winging it.
Looks like you have the basics down pretty well. When I learned to run a lathe in gunsmith school 35 years ago the basic book we always kept on hand was simply titled "How to Run a Lathe". It's a small, handy, and very affordable reference manual that I still find myself using from time to time all these years later. Definitely worth having a copy nearby-


I remember once I left the key in the chuck my first week of lathe 101. Came in the next morning to find my chuck key JB Welded to the
drip pan.

LOL! I never did that again! :LOL:
 
Looks like you have the basics down pretty well. When I learned to run a lathe in gunsmith school 35 years ago the basic book we always kept on hand was simply titled "How to Run a Lathe". It's a small, handy, and very affordable reference manual that I still find myself using from time to time all these years later. Definitely worth having a copy nearby-


I remember once I left the key in the chuck my first week of lathe 101. Came in the next morning to find my chuck key JB Welded to the
drip pan.

LOL! I never did that again! :LOL:
I will check out the book you linked. Thank you. I remember the first time I turned my lathe on with the key in there. That thing hit my bench so hard I had to go change my pants afterwards.
 
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"How to Run a Lathe" came in a couple versions. One of the best things is the information about grinding HSS tool bits that are more suited to light lathes. Most hobby operators are stuck on carbide because they don't know what to do with HSS. I cut my teeth on HSS 50 years ago and haven't used carbide in years. I don't even need it. You probably don't either. 95% of what you turn can be done better with HSS and a dozen and a half blanks could probably last you a lifetime. With HSS you can make any profile anytime you want in minutes.
A very nice finish on mild steel that doesn't need polished can be obtained with some practice. None of these steel parts are polished. Aluminum and brass or delrin are child's play
IMG_3857.JPGIMG_3725.jpgIMG_3724.jpgIMG_2816.jpgIMG_2990.JPGIMG_3726.jpg

You can make form bits for things like Acme threads, or any radius, shear bits, any angle vee threads, grooves, or whatever. Small boring tools. Possibilities are endless
IMG_2810.jpgIMG_2815.JPGIMG_3837.JPG

Some hand ground High Speed Steel tool bits for various operations.
AED743A1-158E-41F3-8C9A-2EF9EFB924C6.jpeg
 
"How to Run a Lathe" came in a couple versions. One of the best things is the information about grinding HSS tool bits that are more suited to light lathes. Most hobby operators are stuck on carbide because they don't know what to do with HSS. I cut my teeth on HSS 50 years ago and haven't used carbide in years. I don't even need it. You probably don't either. 95% of what you turn can be done better with HSS and a dozen and a half blanks could probably last you a lifetime. With HSS you can make any profile anytime you want in minutes.
A very nice finish on mild steel that doesn't need polished can be obtained with some practice. None of these steel parts are polished. Aluminum and brass or delrin are child's play
View attachment 403557View attachment 403558View attachment 403559View attachment 403560View attachment 403561View attachment 403565

You can make form bits for things like Acme threads, or any radius, shear bits, any angle vee threads, grooves, or whatever. Small boring tools. Possibilities are endless
View attachment 403562View attachment 403563View attachment 403564

Some hand ground High Speed Steel tool bits for various operations.
View attachment 403566
Very good point. Part of our lathe training at school was to take a package of HSS bit blanks and grind our own tools like the variety you have. It definitely helped with understanding the various purposes for them and how they do what they do. Create any tool for any job you want. I still use those HSS bits with my small lathe, which is an Emco-Maier Compact 5.

emco-maier-compact-5.jpg
 
I knew someone was going to say something the second I saw it there 😆



They were love taps. One of these days I'll learn how to center it so I don't have to beat it onto submission. The worst part is I was tapping it the wrong way in the video. Caught it before my final cuts luckily and adjusted it back.
Always use brass to tap on steel so you don’t put dents and dings in it.
 
This gal has a very good channel for beginning home shop folks. Here she talks about various tool profiles. But I personally developed my own turning bits and you can as well if you are willing to invest the time.

Most profiles I use were selected by myself mostly when I was a teenager. The finish on my parts as well as accuracy were my highest priority. I could operate a lathe at 14 years old and I had my own Logan 10 inch lathe with quick change gearbox at 15. I thank my father for that. Christmas 1975. By then I could also use his milling machine and metal shaper by myself.
My first job in a machine shop was 1977 and I was 17.