Good choice for a PCP Compressor ($399) the ToAuto A3 (Full Review) 12v/110v/220v

[Normkel]

Benjamin & New Warrior look like a GX CS4 until one opens the case, then the compressor is a Yong Heng with extra bells & whistles.

 

[Normkel]

Here's a Yong Heng clone that has been converted to closed loop/portable operation, but the compressor section is visible.

The piston type for the Yong Heng and Yong Heng clones is very different from the previous ones.

 

[Normkel]

The compressor in the video sort of looks like a cross between an Benjamin Recharge and an Omega Trail Charger knockoff at first glance. For questions about filtering intake air on HPA compressors, particularly entry level compressors, check out the article linked at the end of this post. I believe the primary purpose of filtering intake air is to remove moisture from the ambient air. I think some moisture will still accumulate via condensation from the process of compressing air to the high levels that we use for PCPs. Pre-filtering can be particularly useful for those of us who live in humid regions to protect our airguns from rust and/or corrosion of internal parts when our compressors don’t have great filtration systems (think of the cotton tampon type of filter).

Here’s an article from Hard Air Magazine discussing this very topic of filtration. I’m no expert here, so read the article and heed the advice of members like @Humdinger. I learned a lot from him and as a result I’ve avoided a lot of issues I read about in this forum. I hope this article helps some of you. https://hardairmagazine.com/ham-columns/why-not-pre-dry-high-pressure-air-when-filling-your-pcp/

A caution regarding pre-dryers, the desiccant beads used in some of these units are ceramic and subject to breakdown into particles and dust due to the pulsations in the air flow. Think of putting the beads into a can and shaking them. In experiments, we detected very significant dusting of the compressor when using ceramic bead desiccants.

I've also done much measurement of humidity in the ambient/room air, versus that of the air after being compressed. With only the standard water trap, paper filter, for compressor runs for filling air guns, with venting every couple of minutes, the humidity in the air is typically less than 10%. I have come to the conclusion that the most effective and efficient water removal is from the compressed air side, by means of a water trap (settling area) or paper filter.

*Note: Obviously, liquid water can be filtered from the air, while water vapor has to be condensed out or absorbed.