Tuning Gen 2 Marauder (.25) - setting trigger back to factory

[jp_over]

Friends,

Is this still good advice on getting the Marauder trigger back to factory settings?

Sqrl Klr: "turn the 2nd screw in until the safety no longer holds it's place securely. Then turn the screw back around half a turn or so while moving the safety at the same time until you will feel the safety works as it should. Test fire it several times engaging and disengaging the safety to make sure it doesn't fire prematurely, and bump the gun several times too just to make sure it won't accidentally fire.

Once you have that sweet spot located then just insert the 1st screw until you have a little gap between it and the trigger link to give you a little free 1st stage then you're set."



The previous owner made some changes to the Marauder I have now and I'd like to keep a safe hunting trigger (2-3.5 lbs). I ordered and replaced the bent spring (torsion link / lawyer spring) but am having trouble getting rid of the long first stage and no distinct 2nd stage. I'm not trying to get any lighter than 2lbs, but am looking to ensure safety and a decent 1st and 2nd stage.

Thanks for confirming the above quoted guidance or adding additional info.

Joe

 

[Airgunmann]

Probably shortened springs or changed them depending on how light it is there is a screw one of them on the trigger makes the pull heavier if you screw it in I don't remember which one if you have the cover off snap a picture might jog my memory 

 

[SqrlHntr]

Something sounds off, like Airgunmann said, pics are best. Just happened to snap a pic today before adjusting and removing the lawyer spring, maybe you can compare to yours, dunno, might help. Zoom in and you can see where the screws were set. The trigger weight screw was in all the way.

 

[Airgunmann]

Yeah the screw in front of the safety is the trigger weight if I remember correctly

 

[Airgunmann]

Probably swapped out for a lighter pen spring would be my bet

 

[Airgunmann]

Small set screws in trigger adjust the stages if you go to far with either of them trigger can be unsafe

 

[SqrlHntr]

For reference, figure I’d add another pic while its on the bench. 

 

[jp_over]

Thanks to all for the good advice, especially SqrlHntr's pic.

Here's where I was when I started adjusting before posting on the forum. Problem was a long first stage and no noticeable 2nd stage. I can see now that I didn't have enough gap for screw "C".

Here's where I ended up with rough adjusting from the picture provided by SqrlHntr. Would the below be considered a safe sear engagement or is there room to adjust for less sear engagement?

The above settings give about 2 lbs 12 oz per my trigger gauge which is not bad at all for me. I also notice a big difference in hitting the second stage which is great. I tried to exactly replicate the settings in SqrlHntr's pic but when I did so (using my glasses and counting threads/estimating the depth of the screws) I had a couple of problems and a question. Possibly because the sear is worn or has been previously modified / had material removed.

First, I noticed that a few times after a partial pull the trigger would not reset to its original position. Of note, this is the main reason I reinstalled a new torsion link spring (lawyer spring) since the trigger then becomes floppy and does not reset to the original position after a partial squeeze as when skipping a shot on game or resetting on a target. Is this what is generally expected when the torsion/lawyer spring has been removed?

Second, safety is paramount to me and I'm new to adjusting triggers. I would not have even opened this one up were it not for the floppy trigger/lack of reset after a partial squeeze. I don't know what a "good and safe" sear lock up looks like. I'm also wondering if I'm either seeing wear or a previous attempt at removing material from the sear and trigger link in the below photo:

Thanks for all the good advice and patience with my questions.

 

[SqrlHntr]

You are welcome. I cut off the legs of the lawyer spring and return in as a spacer, some people use washers, but yes, it will get floppy just removing it, adding a spacer back in prevents lateral movement and unnecessary wear. The ‘not resetting after partial 1st stage engagement’ is not something I noticed because I set mine to have a really short 1st stage, so can’t say if thats normal or not. Since you already have speculation about wear or removed material, you may just want to grab another sear and be safe. Side by side I would not be surprised if the geometry has changed on that sear. Rather you feel comfortable than not. After all this is all about fun when is all said and done, we take enough risks as is. 

 

[Airgunmann]

I've noticed if the set screws are adjusted to far once and awhile it won't cock for you the best it can get is a short first stage and a light second stage If you try and remove the first stage all the way some times it won't stay cocked and safety doesn't work so it is unsafe to use without a first stage been there tried it looks like there isn't a lot of wear there from what I can tell from your picture but that's not a good way to judge either

my friend has well over 4000 pellets threw his set with a short first stage and super light second stage ounces but it is adjusted so the safety works and never touches the trigger till he is ready to shoot then off the safety and just touches the trigger it was to light for me I like to be able to lay my finger on the trigger without it going off I tested his gun and it also passed the drop test which I don't think it would looks like your spring on the trigger weight is still stock if you need a little more weight just screw it in the rest of the way . I agree and would purchase a new sear if you don't feel comfortable or confident with the amount of wear on it

 

[jp_over]

SqrlHntr and Airgunmann,

Thanks a bunch for all the advice. I'm going to order a new sear and possibly trigger link as well. I found this helpful pic at Hill Airgun and my sear looks questionable enough for me to replace it.

 

[Airgunmann]

Good plan. The area your seeing is probably wear because if you do a trigger job you don't want the sear rounded like it looks like and you don't want to change any of the angles better safe than sorry