My Gen 1 Marauder loses about 50 psi per day, what is the most likely point of leakage? I've had it apart several times, so I'm pretty familiar with disassembly/reassembly. Have several just ordered o-ring sets ready to go!
Gen 1 Marauder
- Thread starter dark1961
- Start date
Rub a few soapy bubbles over the muzzle end with the bolt closed, see if any bubbles grow, if so then its poppet. If you eliminate that then its not a valve leak internally.
Use the same bubble method mentioned on the gauge, check valve, between fill assembly and air tube, to eliminate all external possibilities before tearing it apart internally. Process of elimination!
Only 11 ways air can escape D:
1 Poppet leak
1 internal Fill Assembly oring
2 internal Gauge port oring(s)
1 internal Valve o-ring
1 external Gauge port oring
1 Gauge thread into adapter
1 Gauge adapter into gauge port
1 Gauge itself leaking
1 Check Valve
1 Check Valve Thread Into Fill Assembly
Could also be a sticking check valve (1-2 drops of silicone oil on next fill could help unstick, fix) @ fill assembly or the thread sealant that the check valve uses when screwed into the valve.
Most common in this order IMO are Poppet, Gauge, Gauge Oring, Gauge Port Orings, Check Valve, then the rest tied for last, unless you remove/install your valve a lot then you can knick it of course.
And of course, degas when attempting any repair on the leaks!
Use the same bubble method mentioned on the gauge, check valve, between fill assembly and air tube, to eliminate all external possibilities before tearing it apart internally. Process of elimination!
Only 11 ways air can escape D:
1 Poppet leak
1 internal Fill Assembly oring
2 internal Gauge port oring(s)
1 internal Valve o-ring
1 external Gauge port oring
1 Gauge thread into adapter
1 Gauge adapter into gauge port
1 Gauge itself leaking
1 Check Valve
1 Check Valve Thread Into Fill Assembly
Could also be a sticking check valve (1-2 drops of silicone oil on next fill could help unstick, fix) @ fill assembly or the thread sealant that the check valve uses when screwed into the valve.
Most common in this order IMO are Poppet, Gauge, Gauge Oring, Gauge Port Orings, Check Valve, then the rest tied for last, unless you remove/install your valve a lot then you can knick it of course.
And of course, degas when attempting any repair on the leaks!
Upvote 0
Mine (Gen2) developed a leak so I tore it down,de-burred the air tube,put all new o'rings in it and things have been great for almost 2 yrs now. Try some soapy water around the fill fitting and the gauge...that may narrow it down. Hope this helps.
Mike.
Mike.
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I have a Gen 2, but I think the internals are pretty much the same.
Start with the O-rings on the gage port. Or possibly the valve. I have a Gen 2, and had the gage issue. Opened it up and found some water and crud had caused the o-ring to deteriorate. I would fill it up and loose all the air in about 3 days. My buddy has a Gen 2, and was loosing air in a very short time. It was coming out the barrel. The valve looked pretty good when I got it open, but changed it, and it is holding 3000 psi for over a week now. Be real careful when you push in the gage port and the valve assembly. The hole in the tube for the gage can easily put a small cut in the O-ring. Then you will have a slow leak. These are all #118 O-rings. I just got a bunch to have on hand. It takes 3, 1 on valve assembly, and 2 on the gage port. I ended up carefully beveling the hole in the air tube the gage goes through to help slide the O-rings past. It could also be the little o-ring under the gage. Be sure to put some silicone base grease on the O-rings when you assemble the gun. I make it a habit of changing the O-rings every time I have the gun apart. O-rings are cheap.
Take your gun out of the stock
Get some soapy water (1 : 1 soap and water)
Charge up your gun
Apply the soap around the gauge, and around the fill port,
Watch for little bubbles. With a slow leak, it may take a little bit.
Hope this helps...
Bam86
Start with the O-rings on the gage port. Or possibly the valve. I have a Gen 2, and had the gage issue. Opened it up and found some water and crud had caused the o-ring to deteriorate. I would fill it up and loose all the air in about 3 days. My buddy has a Gen 2, and was loosing air in a very short time. It was coming out the barrel. The valve looked pretty good when I got it open, but changed it, and it is holding 3000 psi for over a week now. Be real careful when you push in the gage port and the valve assembly. The hole in the tube for the gage can easily put a small cut in the O-ring. Then you will have a slow leak. These are all #118 O-rings. I just got a bunch to have on hand. It takes 3, 1 on valve assembly, and 2 on the gage port. I ended up carefully beveling the hole in the air tube the gage goes through to help slide the O-rings past. It could also be the little o-ring under the gage. Be sure to put some silicone base grease on the O-rings when you assemble the gun. I make it a habit of changing the O-rings every time I have the gun apart. O-rings are cheap.
Take your gun out of the stock
Get some soapy water (1 : 1 soap and water)
Charge up your gun
Apply the soap around the gauge, and around the fill port,
Watch for little bubbles. With a slow leak, it may take a little bit.
Hope this helps...
Bam86
Upvote 0
Soapy what around the gauge first. Put some around the male fill connection. If neither of those then tear into and replace the o-rings. If you want to replace the poppet valve they are cheap from Crosman and this would be the time to do it.
Upvote 0
My Gen 1 developed a leak around the pressure gauge o-ring; I tightened it too tight, and the o-ring squeezed out slightly, which not visually apparent, but the loss of air over time was. Replaced o-ring and did not crank down on it when I tightened it, and it fixed the problem. The gauge can also leak, and that is an easy fix as well. Lastly, the poppet has been know to be the cause, should it become cracked or get deformed over time.
Upvote 0