Gen 1 Marauder Leak

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Add a dash of soap to a cup and agitate it with water to form a bubbly mixture, apply said bubbles to areas such as the muzzle (with bolt closed).



Could be an internal o-ring which would likely leak out the front breech screws with the breech removed or around the gauge hole, or the fill assembly. Could be the gauge itself. Lots of places to check. Let gravity oppose the bubbles when you apply them to areas to avoid water entering the rifle. GL
 
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The leak could be anywhere. Just get an o-ring kit. There cheep and the Mrod is easy to work on. Also you might want to get the valve stem and replace that as well. I have got parts from archer airguns for my Gen 1 before. here is a link. archer airguns. Archer is not a place to get any major upgrades but as far a stock internals goes they have most if not all of them. 

I would look around ebay for parts also. I know you can get o-rings there cheap. Also the o-rings in the Mrod are pretty standard and can often times be found in a local hardware store. Some of the larger o-ring kits will have all of the out there will have all of the needed o-rings and more then just 1 or 2. More like 10-20 extra. 

Being that its a gen 1 and if you have never changed or had changed all of the o-rings you might as well just take care of it now. 
I had an issue when I got mine after about a year the o-rings on the valve failed. About a year and a half ago my valve stem failed. I took the opportunity to clean things up and port things out and drop a regulator in it. 

 
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Probably minor IMHO...

FIRST Check the Manometer area. Few wraps of teflon tape may just do the trick.

Another logical place to check would be at the male foster area if you replaced the o-rings

then teflon tape and if that still doesn't help then its possibly your check valve.

Spray bottle with soapy water would narrow down your specific location.

You can also do the balloon trick over the barrel or over the male foster.



CA
 
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Years ago I sold my .25 mrod and the buyer inform me the gun was leaking air. I tried to rap my head around what it could because I had this gun for years. The buyer had motorhead work on the gun and what he told me the problem with the gun was the poppet was leaking. Not sure if that it's the same problem with your gun but it's something you can look at
 
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Years ago I sold my .25 mrod and the buyer inform me the gun was leaking air. I tried to rap my head around what it could because I had this gun for years. The buyer had motorhead work on the gun and what he told me the problem with the gun was the poppet was leaking. Not sure if that it's the same problem with your gun but it's something you can look at
Click to expand...


Lol ... Poppets are wear items and have a limited life based upon cycles / impacts against seat. Gen 2 guns are much harder on poppets due to the seating surface profile in those valves which is similar to the rim of a volcano. Said raised rim seat cuts into the sealing face of poppet and will in time shatter / fracture it. Gen 1 gun in time also will fracture there poppets as well.



Scott

AKA: Motorheads AG Tuning Services
 
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Then there is something that I call "STOP...HAMMER TIME" for PCP leaks in general.

Undress her (take her clothes off / her stock off) naked only bare bones action.

Never mind if she tells you "YOU CAN'T TOUCH THIS"... Even if your own mind tells

you "YOU CAN'T TOUCH THIS"...

Using a rubber mallet (FOR REAL) give her some wild and nasty beating (on metal areas).

Change positions flip her over, turn her around, etc... Keep hammering her... can be on

the bed or sofa, keep her as comfortable as possible...

This will either cure the PCP leak or make her leak faster to speed up the diagnostic process

and if she is a slow leaker it often gets frustrating like a slow tire leak if you know what I mean

and a slow leak won't fix itself but I can say the STOP...HAMMER TIME action fixes more PCP

problems than you can imagine which may sound crazily stupid to some, it actually works

in many instances because some like it rough while many need it rough whether they like it or not

and have to man up and show her who's boss.

If that doesn't fix your leak problem then you have to...

BREAK IT DOWN... OH OH OH OH OH....

You either work hard or you might as well quit...

YO I TOLD YOU... YOU CAN'T TOUCH THIS...


CA


 
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My Gen 1 is currently down with recurring air leaks. Like what others above have said, soapy water will show the leak. If your going to work on your own gun spend the time to learn how to do it properly. Its not difficult but considering the thing charges to 3,000 psi it must be done correctly. I had to replace a faulty air gage and a few wraps of Teflon tape fixed everything on that leak. Its common for the O-rings to get clipped when installing the gage block due to sharp edges on the inside of the main tube where the holes for openings were punched out during the manufacturing process. I have tried to polish them myself several times with limited luck. A fellow here AJ or AJ shoots advised to get a fine grit, 400 or higher grit ball hone and carefully hone the areas in question. That's my problem is I don't have the hone and am too cheap to pay $50 for something I will only use a few seconds then never again. On O-rings do yourself a favor and locate an industrial rubber and o-ring supply where you can get spares 8 for a dollar. Get main seals and pellet probe (bolt) O-rings. The online "kits" are just stupid expensive. Get the standard durometer or hardness O-rings. I tried some 90s, I think, and they would not compress enough to get the gage block back in the main tube. EDIT: I was digging around and found this tool that I will give a try if I cant find a shop to hone my tube. https://www.archerairguns.com/Gauge-Port-Filler-Tool-for-Benjamin-Marauder-p/mrodfillertool.htm
 
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On the rear of the gauge, there is a hole.

Check it with soapy water.

The poppet could be the problem but when my poppet on the .25 went, it went right now...like a lithium battery.

I replaced the poppet on the 1720T last year because of daily leaks and the Gen I .25 last week.
1542634776_17711776575bf2bd18a602d3.93092257_3F56C888-E8BD-4382-97FE-F0333EA7B760.jpeg

 
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That little gage port filler tool from Archer works great. Mine started leaking about a year ago and I took the opportunity to replace all O-rings and the valve and anything that might have any wear on it. When I put the gage port back in, I didn't have the holes lined up as well as I wanted so I pushed it back out and started over again with the same O-rings on it … just added a little more silicone grease … but that little tool worked well enough to put the same O-rings in twice past the threads without a single tear or rip on either of them. That was over a year ago and it leaks not nary a bit to this day. I was skeptical when I first tried using it as to whether it would work or not, but it came through with flying colors.
 
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The link works, just tried it right now...

I think you will have to wait until they come back from Vacation...

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CA
 
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What is it with all the archer Airgun links? I know that tool your talking about, and a year ago I tried to source it. Every link that came up to archer Airguns was a dead end. 

The links to Archer given here, has anyone opened them up?
Click to expand...


Just tried my link and it works. Give it a try. I think the deal with all the links to that vendor is the frustration with O-rings getting clipped when installing the gage block. I have had this happen no less than four times and have repeatedly lost use of my setup which is well north of $1,000. If a $16 + shipping tool will put an end to this issue than Im a happy air gunner.

Bummer, they are closed the rest of the month. Oh, well time to continue with my trusty RWS 34 in .22.
 
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