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Tuning FX Tuner/Repairs/Issues...

So I have an FX Impact (1st Gen) .30... that I'd bought used a couple years back. And it is nice, accurate, and I've enjoyed shooting it... so I decided to fix it. (Sigh)... I bought a .177 barrel kit, and the new sideload magazines (with higher capacity).

(1) I took the bottle off, and the air leaked out of the bottle. Weird. I assume it's an o-ring or something in the bottle. It's also due for inspection -- and I have no idea how/where to do that. (It isn't dinged or anything). But I was wondering on that. Are there people that fix the valves on bottles? Don't worry about it? (If it's mounted it holds a charge). Do I just get another custom tool and fix it myself? Or do you throw them away and get new ones. (That seems expensive and wasteful). 

(2) The new barrel was "snug" to say the least, but I was able to wiggle it on... I tried to replace the bolt (pellet probe)... and while I have a good allen wrench, and got the post-nut about 1/2 out, it seems to be a bit stripped. (It was acting a little "not positive" with the right sized wrench when I started it)... I think the prior owner might have stripped it. But I don't have an easy-out, and it's tiny. I was wondering about finding a tuner, and just having them repair it, and seeing if I could find a power plenum and updating that at the same time. (If I'm updating it to behave more like a 3rd Gen). Any opinions there, would be helpful. 

Thanks. 


 
Thanks for the suggestions... yeah, I was going to see if I can get that whole bolt carrier group out, and then drill out the nut/set screw in the probe holder, and get a new one... (It looks tricky to try to drill it out between the stock vents).... 

I sort of like learning how some of this works... and I've repaired a few powder burners through creative means in the past. (And even done some work on older Sheridans). But the FX seems a bit fragile and foreign to me, 
 
Can just take the probe holder right off the rod. Destroy the holder (i used a dremel with a carbide burr) to get the probe out, and replace the holder with the updated part. Did it on a friend's gun, he bought a used gun and it was basically a rivet in there.

Regarding the bolt that holds the probe holder on, is that loctited on? Is it best to heat that up before unscrewing it?
 
Can just take the probe holder right off the rod. Destroy the holder (i used a dremel with a carbide burr) to get the probe out, and replace the holder with the updated part. Did it on a friend's gun, he bought a used gun and it was basically a rivet in there.

Regarding the bolt that holds the probe holder on, is that loctited on? Is it best to heat that up before unscrewing it?

Yes certainly and remember everything is metric. I believe that's a 3mm
 
Thanks. I too have a very stubborn, and now stripped probe retaining screw, and will end up having to take the probe holder off.



My trigger adjustment screw also stripped on the first try. Just no meat in it, and looks to be loctited in. I lightly polished the sears and that gave me just that little bit of change I needed. I certainly enjoy my impact, but adjusting anything makes me nervous.
 
That trigger adjustment screw failed without much force at all. If they need to be warmed up, the instructions should really say it, especially for an adjustment screw like that.

Anyway, we live and learn, and become suspicious of all small grub screws.

Yeah they should say that, I've stripped one myself. But after heating I got lucky and got it out and replaced.
 
I'm surprised at these issues with the trigger adjustment screws. My only FX rifle is a Royale 400. Although the Impact uses a different sear design, in looking at the parts drawing, it appears to use the same basic trigger bar design and adjustment provisions. I don't remember ever having a problem turning these screws, and I don't remember any thread locking compound on them. Maybe this is unique to the Impact, or maybe FX has changed its assembly process. Using any kind of locking compound on these adjustment screws seems like a bad idea. The second stage adjuster, which is the only one that most folks will ever need to turn, is under sufficient tension from the spring under the ball that I can't imagine it ever changing its setting during normal use. Have you folks used a locking compound on them after adjusting? If not, ever had any problem with them changing their setting without it? I have not. 
 
I put a Boss match trigger in my Royale, and that's why I used no loctite. And they haven't moved. Good thing, because it took me most of a day to get it set up. They send a bag of loose parts and no instruction. I find it a good trigger for the bench, but mine is too light for general, or field use. Guess that's why they call it a match trigger!