• The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.

Tuning FX Maverick power wheel issues

I have a issue with the power wheel on my FX Maverick I might have adjusted while the gun where cocked and now max power is at the adjust step on the wheel and 7 has become low power. How do I fix it?

Hi Tfjensen, 

If you are still having difficulties with your power wheel, please feel free to contact our technician department (for any future discrepancies also). Our technicians will help walk you through any steps needed to achieve success or advise you on what steps to take next. We are available by phone or e-mail. 

Regards, 
FX Airguns USA

Contact information : 

Monday - Thursday 9 AM - 4 PM EST
Fridays 9 AM - 3 PM EST
Phone: +1 866 639 0772
[email protected]

 
If you know you tension screw depth for your tune just take your wheel off, keeping track of the ball barring. Check the wheel for burrs, polish if need be. Reset the wheel by putting it back on with the 7 up top. You tension screw may or may not touch the wheel, no biggie as unless you have gravity it will not touch unless you have the gun cocked. If this doesn't work...

You will need to start over with your tension screw to fix the problem. First take your wheel off. Make sure to not loose the small ball barring and spring (spring should stay put). The gun uncocked, pull the end out and with calibers sent it at( "factory" - not sure what that is) or 6-6.5mm (good starting point). Polish the inside of the wheel to take out any burrs in case you did turn the wheel while cocked. Don't apply too much pressure, you don't want to change the contour, just polish the burr away. Put it back with the "7" being on top and the barring in the right place (use some silicone grease to hold it in place. As I mentioned the tension screw may or may not be touching the wheel, this is normal unless cocked or if you use gravity and hold the gun barrel up. At this point you should be reset to high power being 7. Then turn the wheel to "adjustment" and turn the tension screw incrementally back to your tune tune.

If you already know where you were on the tension screw with your previous tune, just set that with your calibers, put the wheel back in 7 position at the top and you're done. but most do not keep the measurement notes. 
 
If you know you tension screw depth for your tune just take your wheel off, keeping track of the ball barring. Check the wheel for burrs, polish if need be. Reset the wheel by putting it back on with the 7 up top. You tension screw may or may not touch the wheel, no biggie as unless you have gravity it will not touch unless you have the gun cocked. If this doesn't work...

You will need to start over with your tension screw to fix the problem. First take your wheel off. Make sure to not loose the small ball barring and spring (spring should stay put). The gun uncocked, pull the end out and with calibers sent it at( "factory" - not sure what that is) or 6-6.5mm (good starting point). Polish the inside of the wheel to take out any burrs in case you did turn the wheel while cocked. Don't apply too much pressure, you don't want to change the contour, just polish the burr away. Put it back with the "7" being on top and the barring in the right place (use some silicone grease to hold it in place. As I mentioned the tension screw may or may not be touching the wheel, this is normal unless cocked or if you use gravity and hold the gun barrel up. At this point you should be reset to high power being 7. Then turn the wheel to "adjustment" and turn the tension screw incrementally back to your tune tune.

If you already know where you were on the tension screw with your previous tune, just set that with your calibers, put the wheel back in 7 position at the top and you're done. but most do not keep the measurement notes.

I did all of these procedures and still have the same issue. reverse power settings
 
From a trusted source, I was told to screw the hammer spring tensioning screw all the way in, CW, and then go CCW 1 full turn, and start there. Turn the hammer spring tensioning screw CCW incrementally (1/4 turn), all while checking the speed over the chronograph. You should reach a point where the speed DROPS after increasing the hammer spring tension screw. Go back 1/4 turn to where the higher velocity was. That is the max velocity for that regulator setting. If you want/need more velocity, you must turn up the regulator, reset the hammer spring to one full turn open and start all over.
 
Hey I had that happen to me. Back off the hammer spring adjuster a few turns. Your hammer is over powering the reg. And when you go to a lighter settling you gun in more in balance. Or you can increase you reg till 7 becomes your fasted speed. Easiest is to back off on hammer tension. This happens a lot when ppl put the slug power kit in and forget to back off on hammer adjuster. 
 
Well I've tried everything I know to do. Tried the above and also the hammer spring adjustment screw all the way in to the right and backing out 1/4 turn at a time until 3 full turns or so. PW on 7 still is the highest at 880's with a descent spread of 10-15. PW7 is still the lowest with ES sometimes 40 plus or minus. I've also tried the 6mm starting point on the screw and walking it in until all the way in and nothing has made the PW work like it should

my gun..

.25

600mm

stock barrel

105/130 on reg's


 
What weight pellets are you trying to tune for ? Rest of the gun stock or what ? u should be able to back your spring off till your power wheel starts working the correct way if your tuning for the 34 gr u may need a little more reg pressure also I know mk2 and maverick have different plenums I started with a 700 mm barrel large ports for tp and probe i actually used the slug port and a Huma probe I have my front Huma bottle reg at 150 and the rear original amp reg at 110 I was at 820 ish with valve adjustment on the impact all the way open I added hammer spring till I was at 930 then backed off the spring a tad and used the valve adjuster to take it to 905 about. being that you don't have a valve adjuster u will have to adjust your hammer spring up over say 920 ish and back hammer off keep checking power wheel to make sure it turns freely and doesn't stop part way like on 5 or something it should work normal after doing that I think like other have said your overpowering the reg still. Im not a expert just trying to help out
 
What weight pellets are you trying to tune for ? Rest of the gun stock or what ? u should be able to back your spring off till your power wheel starts working the correct way if your tuning for the 34 gr u may need a little more reg pressure also I know mk2 and maverick have different plenums I started with a 700 mm barrel large ports for tp and probe i actually used the slug port and a Huma probe I have my front Huma bottle reg at 150 and the rear original amp reg at 110 I was at 820 ish with valve adjustment on the impact all the way open I added hammer spring till I was at 930 then backed off the spring a tad and used the valve adjuster to take it to 905 about. being that you don't have a valve adjuster u will have to adjust your hammer spring up over say 920 ish and back hammer off keep checking power wheel to make sure it turns freely and doesn't stop part way like on 5 or something it should work normal after doing that I think like other have said your overpowering the reg still. Im not a expert just trying to help out

I appreciate the help and i understand that somehow it is over powering the reg

the gun is stock and i'm tuning for 34 fx pellets

i've backed my spring off in increments as far as i can and even walked it back in from max to all the way closed in increments