FX Fx maverick grub and adjust screw problem.

I have a maverick sniper in .22 it was great time shooting it but for the past 4 months it keeps changing velocities, i mean once i got it tuned the way i like (the perfect harmony getting 5 fps spread through 20 shot) but two days later i measured the velocity its lower now by 10 fps and the tune is gone. :cautious:.
No leaks, no damage whatsoever thank god, so i tried to loctite the grub screw the one on the side of the hammer spring cup, everything is going great after that two days later i found that lost velocity like 10 or 15 fps lower. So i tried to put a 1.5mm Allenkey in the adjust hole and i found it loose and i can adjust it easily.
My grub screw is loctited still i'm able to play with the adjust screw freely .... help.o_O
 
I have a maverick sniper in .22 it was great time shooting it but for the past 4 months it keeps changing velocities, i mean once i got it tuned the way i like (the perfect harmony getting 5 fps spread through 20 shot) but two days later i measured the velocity its lower now by 10 fps and the tune is gone. :cautious:.
No leaks, no damage whatsoever thank god, so i tried to loctite the grub screw the one on the side of the hammer spring cup, everything is going great after that two days later i found that lost velocity like 10 or 15 fps lower. So i tried to put a 1.5mm Allenkey in the adjust hole and i found it loose and i can adjust it easily.
My grub screw is loctited still i'm able to play with the adjust screw freely .... help.o_O
I think it's a plot, I'm having the same issues sort of, get a bunch of shots right on then boom 15fps lower then it goes back. I'm going to pull out the hammer and make sure it's nice and free and give it a touch of Mobile 1 and make sure everything is snug or Lock-tite'd as need be. My Sat afternoon project.
 
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It's a combination so...I did take out the hammer, for those that haven't done it, you are for a treat, also some moments..or longer....of panic. First what I found, my hammer was bone dry and actually a little sticky, so, cleaned it, put a light coat of Mobile One on any and all parts that move, reassembled, tested, no more huge swings, I'm getting about a 3.3 SD over a bunch of shots with different pellets, close enough for right now.

Breech seal, you can feel that with your fingers, air coming out, my personal method to avoid a lot of cursing is to pull the barrel, it'll give you a chance to make sure every thing is tight and easy access to the breech and to clean the barrel at the same time. Lube the probe when done.

Regulators....If you have a digital gauge you can tell really fast if it's the #2 Reg or it's leaking down.

Go to FX and get the schematic for the Maverick.

Now for the hammer removal, Ernst Roe has a nice video on YouTube
Starts at 2;50.

Now today's hints, work in a clean flat area with a nice large white towel....that's to catch the things that will try to escape.
Remove the stock

Remove the Power Adjuster Wheel, there is a little ball bearing there so....go slow, I always grease the little suckers when reassembling, keep them in place, it doesn't matter which number you put it on when reassembling as long as the ball bearing is in the little hole with the little spring.

Remove the little screws holding in the pins on the trigger Assy. Using a small allen wrench, push out the pin closest to the breech from the opposite side of the set screw...WARNING, there is a spring under tension so....HANG ON TO THE PART, PUSH IT DOWN AND WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ALLEN WRENCH SLOWLY RELEASE IT.

Remove the middle pin, it's the limit for the trigger sear

Remove the last pin, closest to the stock, that's the sear, NOTE how it's in or refer to the drawing you've downloaded. The hammer will now fall out.

Check the hammer for any nasties, if it's gouged someone made a huge mistake, deburr it up with fine sand paper.

Clean out the hole, oil the hammer and put it back in, it MUST be kept fully in so keep it slightly tilted down.

Assemble the sear, good luck, I use a allen wrench to get it in place then push in the pin and use the screw, be sure to orientate the sear properly or you'll spend hours figuring it out...been there done that. I'm kinda slow.

Put in the keeper pin in the (Middle) next hole, sear goes under the pin.

Now the fun part, put the spring that tried to escape on the stock end of the sear, and on the SECOND screw from the end of the bar, with the sear groove facing the stock....push it down and locate it with a allen wrench in the hole closest to the breech, push in the pin from the opposite side and secure with the set screw.

Hopefully along the way you've been lightly lubing the moving parts.

Reassemble the Hammer Spring adjuster I always measure the over all distance so I can repeat it if necessary, fyi, one turn of the screw is 1mm which means butt kiss unless you know your starting position. With the greased ball bearing, they really do try to escape, in it's hole with the little spring, put the power wheel screw in THEN lower the power wheel to capture that darn ball bearing, tighten the screw, Oh I hope you greased or oiled the 10 ramps on the adjustor wheel.

Reassemble the stock the long screw goes on the front short on the rear, repreassurize. Oh I'd add a touch of lube to the bottle threads, NO ^%$# silicon, you'll destroy the threads over time.

You can dry fire prior to final assemble but you should be good to go, I'd check it as soon as you get the trigger assembly in. Charge it up and see if things have improved.

NOTE my Maverick .22 Compact started life as a .25 Sniper, I never changed the hammer, that I know of, to the proper weight, I forgot to check it this time...and I'm not so concerned that I'm going to tear it apart to find out.

Charge and test.
 
Without a doubt the crazy errant low velocity shots are a common problem in this platform. Seems everyone experiences it and I’m not even sure exactly what remedies it…lol. With mine adjusting probe position seems to take care of the problem when it does occur. I can concur about being careful taking the hammer out. The spring in the trigger sprung on me and sent the sear into oblivion. I gave up at that point and sent it to fx. lol.
 
Without a doubt the crazy errant low velocity shots are a common problem in this platform. Seems everyone experiences it and I’m not even sure exactly what remedies it…lol. With mine adjusting probe position seems to take care of the problem when it does occur. I can concur about being careful taking the hammer out. The spring in the trigger sprung on me and sent the sear into oblivion. I gave up at that point and sent it to fx. lol.
I've had it go flying but I always do it on the kitchen table and have young eyes available to look for it, this time my#2 granddaughter found it 5' away. I 'd forgotten it was there, been over a year since i tore one apart. The mavericks aren't really that hard to work on, you just have to be willing to eat crow and admit you messed up. Ernst's videos are very good at going through things, as well as a few others. One guy, has a video that is ok but makes some things more complicated than necessary.
 
I've had it go flying but I always do it on the kitchen table and have young eyes available to look for it, this time my#2 granddaughter found it 5' away. I 'd forgotten it was there, been over a year since i tore one apart. The mavericks aren't really that hard to work on, you just have to be willing to eat crow and admit you messed up. Ernst's videos are very good at going through things, as well as a few others. One guy, has a video that is ok but makes some things more complicated than necessary.
Yeah his videos are awesome for sure. I think for most general things that may leak on a Maverick I don’t think that trigger will need to come out to fix them. I plan to avoid that task in the future if possible.
 
Yeah his videos are awesome for sure. I think for most general things that may leak on a Maverick I don’t think that trigger will need to come out to fix them. I plan to avoid that task in the future if possible.
The trigger/hammer has to come out to replace the valve and seat. Which is an interesting exercise. Not really hard if you...get lucky and have enough stuff to pull it off, wooden or plastic dowels, no need for special tooling..if you are careful.
 
The trigger/hammer has to come out to replace the valve and seat. Which is an interesting exercise. Not really hard if you...get lucky and have enough stuff to pull it off, wooden or plastic dowels, no need for special tooling..if you are careful.
That’s the only part of mine I’m scared to tackle……..so far! Not sure what I’d “fix” if I did!
 
That’s the only part of mine I’m scared to tackle……..so far! Not sure what I’d “fix” if I did!
I figured it this way, I've got a box, dump pieces in and ship it off. Caution the following is a faulty memory....once you get down to the block, which is moderately easy, just a LOT of disassembly, you carefully push out the valve, then the seat from the inside of the block, reassembly is done from the front, just use something soft to push it back in. Either I'm really skilled or I got REALLY lucky. But the gun has been working fine for over a year. Well except for the normal FX issues but nothing to complain about.
 
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It's a combination so...I did take out the hammer, for those that haven't done it, you are for a treat, also some moments..or longer....of panic. First what I found, my hammer was bone dry and actually a little sticky, so, cleaned it, put a light coat of Mobile One on any and all parts that move, reassembled, tested, no more huge swings, I'm getting about a 3.3 SD over a bunch of shots with different pellets, close enough for right now.

Breech seal, you can feel that with your fingers, air coming out, my personal method to avoid a lot of cursing is to pull the barrel, it'll give you a chance to make sure every thing is tight and easy access to the breech and to clean the barrel at the same time. Lube the probe when done.

Regulators....If you have a digital gauge you can tell really fast if it's the #2 Reg or it's leaking down.

Go to FX and get the schematic for the Maverick.

Now for the hammer removal, Ernst Roe has a nice video on YouTube
Starts at 2;50.

Now today's hints, work in a clean flat area with a nice large white towel....that's to catch the things that will try to escape.
Remove the stock

Remove the Power Adjuster Wheel, there is a little ball bearing there so....go slow, I always grease the little suckers when reassembling, keep them in place, it doesn't matter which number you put it on when reassembling as long as the ball bearing is in the little hole with the little spring.

Remove the little screws holding in the pins on the trigger Assy. Using a small allen wrench, push out the pin closest to the breech from the opposite side of the set screw...WARNING, there is a spring under tension so....HANG ON TO THE PART, PUSH IT DOWN AND WHEN YOU REMOVE THE ALLEN WRENCH SLOWLY RELEASE IT.

Remove the middle pin, it's the limit for the trigger sear

Remove the last pin, closest to the stock, that's the sear, NOTE how it's in or refer to the drawing you've downloaded. The hammer will now fall out.

Check the hammer for any nasties, if it's gouged someone made a huge mistake, deburr it up with fine sand paper.

Clean out the hole, oil the hammer and put it back in, it MUST be kept fully in so keep it slightly tilted down.

Assemble the sear, good luck, I use a allen wrench to get it in place then push in the pin and use the screw, be sure to orientate the sear properly or you'll spend hours figuring it out...been there done that. I'm kinda slow.

Put in the keeper pin in the (Middle) next hole, sear goes under the pin.

Now the fun part, put the spring that tried to escape on the stock end of the sear, and on the SECOND screw from the end of the bar, with the sear groove facing the stock....push it down and locate it with a allen wrench in the hole closest to the breech, push in the pin from the opposite side and secure with the set screw.

Hopefully along the way you've been lightly lubing the moving parts.

Reassemble the Hammer Spring adjuster I always measure the over all distance so I can repeat it if necessary, fyi, one turn of the screw is 1mm which means butt kiss unless you know your starting position. With the greased ball bearing, they really do try to escape, in it's hole with the little spring, put the power wheel screw in THEN lower the power wheel to capture that darn ball bearing, tighten the screw, Oh I hope you greased or oiled the 10 ramps on the adjustor wheel.

Reassemble the stock the long screw goes on the front short on the rear, repreassurize. Oh I'd add a touch of lube to the bottle threads, NO ^%$# silicon, you'll destroy the threads over time.

You can dry fire prior to final assemble but you should be good to go, I'd check it as soon as you get the trigger assembly in. Charge it up and see if things have improved.

NOTE my Maverick .22 Compact started life as a .25 Sniper, I never changed the hammer, that I know of, to the proper weight, I forgot to check it this time...and I'm not so concerned that I'm going to tear it apart to find out.

Charge and test.
Thanks so much for the effort bro i will try all of this
 
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I think it's a plot, I'm having the same issues sort of, get a bunch of shots right on then boom 15fps lower then it goes back. I'm going to pull out the hammer and make sure it's nice and free and give it a touch of Mobile 1 and make sure everything is snug or Lock-tite'd as need be. My Sat afternoon project.
I'm trying to get fx maverick quick tune system to keep everything detailed
 
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