FX Maverick barrel centering issue

Hello all-

I zero at 50y center of target. But if I shoot at 60y, the poi shifted to the right 1mil and at 85y it shifted 2 mil. There’s no wind when shooting, I also shoot my Taipan at the same time too to confirm this. 

Looking at the barrel from the front of the gun, and if I push on the barrel from right to left there’s no play. But if push from left to right there’s some wiggles room. 

How do I resolve this? I do not have this issue with my other air rifles. Anytime else have this issue? 

The pictures are hard to tell, but there’s wiggles room on the right side 

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Right there at the very front the barrel are not guided / held in place, it is just so the shroud can fit in there, the barrel / barrel pipe are only supported in 2 places behind that and at the very breech end where it is tightened down

I have not looked at my Maverick like that, but i could try and see if i using papers as feeler gauges can fit the same number of paper strips in at the sides and above the shroud.



TBH i would assume that this was sort of well centered



Also mind you, my barrel are modified, it is covered by 3 carbon fiber barrels one fitting inside each other for a massive thick shroud VS the original hollow ALU shroud, and putting this on my rifle though the outer diameter is 28 mm like the FX shroud it did not slide right in, i had to finesse it in place, but it did slide in with no effort.

And upon shooting it after having put on all this Carbon fiber on the barrel, there was no noticeable shift in POI ( left and right ) VS when i last shot the rifle in its standard configuration. i did put in a pin probe and a heavier hammer weight alongside all the CF on the barrel, so at first the rifle was shooting very hot / fast before i got it dialed back a little for the 13.43 grain slugs.

mav1.1651770929.jpg


At the top of the shroud i am able to feed in 1 piece of paper.

mav 2.1651770978.jpg


Trying to slide the paper down to either side, i dont get further than a 90 deg offset from the top with the edge of the paper then i can not slide it further, and it is the same on either side.

mav 3.1651771051.jpg




If you are a little off at 50 yards, you will of course be more off shooting longer.
 
Sorry i forgot to test.

Pulling sideways on my shroud / barrel i am able to feed in ( from the front ) a single sheet of paper on the side, and in both sides at the same time, it is also evident that i will not be able to do it with 2 papers in each side.

But that is also the wiggle room i have with my setup, and it seem to be the same at least in the sides, i did not try to pull down in the barrel to see if i could get 2 pieces of paper in at the top, but i recon that would be possible too.

So my setup are uniform in this area it seem.

I am not quite sure if you can do the same with the factory shroud as it is just a pipe and there are flexible O rings on the guiding surfaces or at least in the breech end of the shroud.

But without pulling, if you can feed say 10 sheets of paper in one side and just 3 in the other, then something is a bit fishy i would say, and in that case i would probably try and measure from the outside and to the barrel pipe minus the shroud, to see if the inconsistency is still there.

mav 4.1651772959.jpg

 
The o-rings are there. I did a paper check, left side cannot put any paper in. Right side can fit 2 sheet in. If I put 1 paper in the left side, the barrel and slot will clamp that paper in tight, Right side can fit 1 in with little room for maybe 1/2 of a sheet more?

I'll try to see if I can use tin foils and layer it a few time to get both side snugged/even or no play.


 
Forget about taking the upper rail as a guide...it is held with 2-3 screws and it is adjustable. The hole can be off, the milling can be off, the screw can be off - but who cares...

Lets assume you can take out and put back the barrel with easy slide, free floating on orings, right? We go from here.

Center your scope L-R to the optical center.

Do you have a boresight lazer? The following you can do on short distance in a bigger room per say, but the best would be longer as far the lazer can drop the dot.

Loosen the upper rail screws and play with the rail (scope mounted) and bring the scope reticle crosshair L-R on the lazer dot. You done, for now, this will hit a target on both distances.

To tune for tens you shall go to a range or club that job can take weeks and couple tins of lead.
 
Alll these rails, or at least the 2 here on the Maverick.

I sort of wish FX would make the gun without those so the initial purchase would be cheaper, i for one have no use for those rails, and searching my grey memory goo i cant say i have seen many having something installed there, even fewer if we dont count people doing night time pesting.

Of course there should be a couple of threaded holes so you could screw something on if you have or get the need down the road

That would make the FX rifles even more the shooters gun, in that nothing but the basics are there, and you can then choose to bolt on what you need / like.
 
bigHUN- Too bad I do not have a laser bore sight , I only want my poi between 0-100y. Am I asking too much?

No, not at all, but I don't think the barrel fit is your problem. As suggested, I would look at the scope alignment. There seems to be a difference between your scope zero, and a straight line from centerline of bore to target. Obviously, this error can be too great to correct through scope mounting, but I doubt if that is the case here.
 
bigHUN- Too bad I do not have a laser bore sight , I only want my poi between 0-100y. Am I asking too much?

No, not at all, but I don't think the barrel fit is your problem. As suggested, I would look at the scope alignment. ...

Last week I was aligning my scope on the upper rail to the barrel, at a shooting range @ 100 meters. I let the screws loose and moved the rail L-R, if I could recall correctly the amount of travel was about 1 FT each direction -or more. This is normal and maybe a must to have, if you have a knowledge and patience you can align at a range.

Don't base any decision with 2-3 shots, but lets make it 10 shots group before each move.

20 meters and 100 meters, there and back and you bringing the scope center closer with every move until both distances hit the X.

When you're done you will see it feels awesome.
 
I always optically center a scope when mounting before bore sighting. When mounting and you are level side to side and up and down (counting the 20 MOA rail) and your POI is not inline with the barrel with the bore sight it's your rail that is off. You most likely will not get it perfect, but as they said above you need to find the "center" as best you can with the rail once your rings are tight and the scope is level to the gun. The rail side to side comes last and is very important. A scope can only compensate left to right or vice versa so much. Also if using adjustable rings you must loosen / flatten them out then and tighten them down centered in the ring base for leveling. Once level you can adjust your desired custom MOA, once retightened check level again. I have found several mistakes in my scope mounting because I am using adjustable rings or the rail is off left to right and not centered with the shroud. Makes a big difference in the long shot. Also if the shroud is contacting the scope rail this will mess with harmonics.

Another option is a barre/shroud clamp. Black Arts makes a great maverick clamp. This will for sure "pull" the shroud straight over the bottle and possibly save you a lot of "tinkering" time. Its the original tensioning system and in my opinion still the best.
 
Everything is the video is true... for some FX guns. I agree that FX should not have some of these issues for the cost, just no denying that. Even as an FX fan, this quality control or just lack of doing something correctly bothers me. Such as AMP reg creep with a plastic rounded piston. They know its a problem, or stiction which you fleshed out so well, btw thank you for that healthy discussion, it taught me a lot about the valve and rod set up and gave me more understanding, but overall I have had more enjoyable experiences with FX then the latter. I have owned almost all the "big brands" and every one had some issue, just the nature of the PCP game. All issue were fixable though with some tinkering effort or knowledgeable friends when I would get stuck on something. I think the OPs issue can be remedied and he can enjoy his maverick for years. Just a little hiccup.

Also OP, email FX, this would be something they would fix under warranty for you.
 
I have the same problem with the shroud touching. Last month I got one of the fist .25 in South Australia . I have been having trouble with it holding 0. I sight it in then next time I use it it could be a MRAD out to left or right . Today I noticed that the shroud is touching the behind the rail as pointed out above and thought this could be moving the POA with temperature change. I also noticed that the rail is mounted off to the right. You can see this where the rail is bolted to the pillars as the rail is proud of the pillars on the right and shy of the pillars on the left . The amount is only a 1mm or so but is what is causing the rail to touch the shroud.

My concern is changing POA on different days.

I'm not sure about this having an effect on POA over distance maybe that is spin drift. If your scope is 2mm off to the right and you sight it in 2mm to the right of where the pellet lands the pellet will land 2mm to the left at any range if it shoots like a laser.