FX M3 power block barrel removal

I decided to install my slug liner on my M3 22 last week.
When I went to remove the barrel it wouldn’t budge. I called Utah Air and they told me wrap the barrel in leather get a good sized pair of pliers and work it out. Finally got it but had to place my foot on the front side of the butt and push with my foot and pull with the pliers.
Couple of days later I asked FX USA about this.
They told me this happened with some M3 Power Block guns. It is caused by an internal O ring in the rear block that is there for the 35 cal only. The third O ring creates a vacuum of sorts and it requires a great deal of effort to break the vacuum. They told me to remove the O ring and the problem would go away. They also said that while they are aware of the issue it is not a common situation.
Took the barrel out again and removed the O ring. Problem solved.
Hope this helps anyone else that experiences this issue.
 
I had awful hell removing my 800 barrel last night out of the newly installed power block. I was just about to start pounding it out or use a slide hammer. Then when I finally got it to move it made a pop noise. Apparently air gets trapped between the oring in the block and the forward oring in the barrel effectively locking the barrel in. Of course I left the oring in. And of course my single loader I brought to the range requires pulling the barrel out a bit to install. Lastly of course my safety flag that goes into the magazine slot would not go in without removing the single loader. Guess what? After a hour of shooting the barrel is locked in again 🤪

I guess it is good to have as it keeps air lost from escaping on highly power shots and for locking in a tensioned barrel, but OMG is it a pain to remove!

I think I have a answer that may not require pounding out the barrel, or removing the oring in the powerblock.

Allen.
 
Oh it's this oring here dunno if everyone has that slot.


20220829_083332.jpg

And it is mentioned here in Ernest's install video.


Allen
 
For those of you who have not run into this yet and have the powerblock with a o-ring in the powerblock itself. Or maybe you installed the oring and did not know what that could do. This is a way to remove the barrel without fear of overly man handling it possibly bending the barrel, barrel end, or damaging a moderator because you wanted to use it as a handle. This would be good to have a round if you already experience this in mild form where you had to do some tugging but it popped out. I will modify this post as I gather correct parts as I need this tool sitting around if I plan on leaving that oring in the Power Block. Source a 1/2 - 20 nut and metal tubing, I found some 1/2 copper pipe, also sourced a stack of washers.

Parts list for tool should you desire to go to store to get items and don't have in garage.

1/2 " copper pipe

20220829_201002.jpg


One joint for said copper pipe.

20220829_201826.jpg

1/2 " stack of 9/16 washers and a 1/2 - 20 threaded nut sorry I bought wrong washers. Make sure washers will slide down barrel but not the copper piping. I used a file to open up the washers a bit but if you buy 9/16 washers it should not be a problem.

Screenshot_20220829-203202_Gallery.jpg


Of course remove set screws as needed to remove barrel.

1. Remove shroud
2. Solder joint to copper tube, this will allow joint to sit just outside the base just like the carbon tension tube does.
20220829_201826.jpg

afterwards cut tube length and allow enough space for a washer and the nut to thread on to barrel.


20220829_162342.jpg

3. Assemble tube washer and nut. Don't use your tensioner nut. Make sure there are least three threads that go into the nut.
20220829_202118.jpg

4. Tighten nut until nut stops. Back off nut

5. Add stack of washers while still allowing enough threads for nut...
20220829_203446.jpg


6.Tighten nut again until it stops.
7. Repeat until barrel comes loose.

You may hear a pop as you pull the barrel out at the block by hand. But most likely just a hiss like this with the barrel puller that was just made...


It will end up like this for this tool.

20220830_174511.jpg

Or this if you want fancy..
20220830_174835.jpg


If you are a wimpy old man like me you will need this tool.

Allen
 
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From what was mentioned earlier (I think it was this thread) that extra o-ring in the block is not necessary and not on the units smaller than 35 cal. I'm just assuming that the oring is there to help all the gases from the shot be used to help propel the heavier slug forward. But some extra gas does build up in between the orings and lock the barrel in place.

But to address your question. I don't remember seeing a exit between the two o rings.

And as strong as the barrel is, it's just basically a thin metal tube. You don't want to bend it trying to remove it.

Allen
 
I installed that extra o-ring when putting on the power block kit, because there were no instructions and I didn't know better. I haven't tried to remove the barrel yet. Fingers crossed.
It would be nice if FX would actually provide detailed instructions with these kits. Or at the very least a QR code that links you to some detailed online instructions. Saving a lot of us from confusion and frustration. It's like Ernest's masterclasses on YouTube. It's not an in depth 'class'. It's a rushed, assume you know 30 out of 60 steps he does, class.
For what we spend on their products, I wish they would consider dummies like me that need to know and understand everything.
 
I
I installed that extra o-ring when putting on the power block kit, because there were no instructions and I didn't know better. I haven't tried to remove the barrel yet. Fingers crossed.
It would be nice if FX would actually provide detailed instructions with these kits. Or at the very least a QR code that links you to some detailed online instructions. Saving a lot of us from confusion and frustration. It's like Ernest's masterclasses on YouTube. It's not an in depth 'class'. It's a rushed, assume you know 30 out of 60 steps he does, class.
For what we spend on their products, I wish they would consider dummies like me that need to know and understand everything.
I installed it also, no problems taking out or putting the barrel in. The key is to assemble everything, slide the barrel home and install mag with the upper rail screws in but not tight. Then air it up, then snug those rail screws up. This way everything is lined up 100% before those screws get snugged up.

This also makes sure your mag has the perfect spacing.
 
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