Fx Impact mag parts for 3D printed mags

Hi Nsboost

I print a lot of different magazines for different guns.

It is very simple to make a torque spring. Use an drilling machine and a piece of pipe or rod. I use ø12mm pipe for Impacts mags. 

The finished spring diameter will be more than twice the diameter of the pipe. 

Then choose 0,4 - 0.5 mm spring wire. I think I normally use 0.5 on the large impact magz.

(I normally purchase a spool of 60 m wire thread.)

For Impact magz. When you stand with the drilling machine in your right hand and the pipe pointing left.

Attache the wire close to the drilling machine. Wear a workhandshue and make some resistance by running the thread in and out between the fingers. Attach the spring wire closest to the drilling machine. Run the drilling machine backwards and wind the spring with guiding the thread by your left hand. Wind like 200mm spring lenght.

Cut the spring into the right lengths, and bend the ends into needed shape with a plier at last.

Very easy.

A hint many rotations on a spring gives a more equal force when turning the rotor. The OEM manufacture seems to makes springs far to tight, and with not enough winds.

Not a big problem on large calibers due to more ridgid pellets. But on .177 it can deform the skirt slightly and often you see poi changes from first shot to the last.

I normally use 0.1 mm thinner wire thread than the OEM and wind twice the amount of windings. This gives a very even force on the rotor compared from first to last pellet. 

The magz. on the images is my own design and I have only made Impact magz in .177 and in .22 so no experience on the .25 yet.



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The spring manufacturing part is very easy.

NB - I don't manufacture and sell magz. I do it mostly for fun and to find the most ideal magz design - For easy use and most importing for accuracy. I see no difference in accuracy when using my own magz. vs using single loading. The flip cover design for the Avenger has got two versions,- the pellet version and the slug version with the rotor designed like the impact. If some wants to go down the diy lane. I will be happy to send a copy of the 3d files.

Feel free to send me a message.

Many kg. of print filament has gone straight to the bin before the designs are finished. 

Good luck

Claus from Denmark
 
Hi TN_Yankee

I use only 0.4 mm nozzles - and I prefer to print one part at the time.

(often more parts at the same print - but use the setting where the printer finish each part before starting the next.) Example:
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I prefer print quality over print speed. Normally I print with 40mm/s (My second printer will be a FLSUN QQ-S PRO DELTA - it can print double speed with same quality)

ABS for rotors since it is easy to work on after print. Sometimes the complete mag is ABS like the Avengers in grey/yellow.

But mostly I print mag. houses and covers in PetG with rotors in ABS.

sometimes I also print rotors in ASA like the Impact rotor.

ABS is the filament that gives the best fine details - special the pellet number can make you pull out your hair.

But once you get the slicer settings optimized and right for your 3d printer you can achieve pretty good results.

My printer is a Creality 10s Pro v2 with a few upgrades:

- Micro Swiss all metal hotend (Less problems with the bowden pipe)

- Creality glass bed. Always 100% even bed

- Synchronized Z axis. (No changing in layer thickness)

- Low noise fans internally on the power supply and cabinet. (Only to make the printer more quiet)

Everything else on the printer is standard. It works fine as standard, but needs more attention without the All metal hotend and the Synch. Z axis system.

I bought this printer as my first and only 3d printer in december 2020 so I have gained about one years of experience now.

I so far designed magz and use them for Artemis M16, Kral Puncher, FX Crown, FX Impact, Daystate Redwolf and the latest Air Venturi Avenger.

I dont use speed loaders and stuff - I just bring a bag of full loaded mags for each rifle.

It is just more fun shooting with your own magz. working far better than the original magz. 

Claus


 
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Hi Nsboost

I print a lot of different magazines for different guns.

For Impact magz. When you stand with the drilling machine in your right hand and the pipe pointing left.

Attache the wire close to the drilling machine. Wear a workhandshue and make some resistance by running the thread in and out between the fingers. Attach the spring wire closest to the drilling machine. Run the drilling machine backwards and wind the spring with guiding the thread by your left hand.

Good luck

Claus from Denmark

Fantastic! Thank you! I have files for for the factory mags.. but I would be interested in the files to yours as I’m always up for trying alternatives. They may not do me much good at this current time as all I have is a .25 impact, but that may change. You never know.



I’ll shoot you a message!



Thanks again!

Nick


 
If one can do it for a reasonable price for the mag and cheek riser shouldn't have any problem at all getting rid of them my friend just got a m3 and he's a lefty and I've read on the forum at least a half a dozen times what about the lefty's or what other people do when being left handed if you do let me know I'm sure my friend would like a kit 
 
little progress update. I’m not much of a 3D designer, but this is coming along nicely. So far the parts I’ve reverse engineered seem to be functioning pretty well as good as the originals. All the original pieces fit thus far. When it comes to the mag lock I’m struggling to find the screw, so my mag lock will be bolted in with something a little more traditional than the “binding screw” or whatever the fx mag has in it. I am still retaining the two springs/ball bearings that the original is using though. I decided to maintain the same number/capacity to keep speed loaders and such available still useable in my mags. I’m pretty happy with the results this far


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Well emgfred never got back to me so I didn’t get to play with his design. 


I ended up sitting down with calipers and the software and making my own “fx” mags. Looks and function like the factory mags. 


The spring part is still by far the hardest part to get right. This mag works perfectly though. I need to find a rod/drill bit in between the sizes I have to get the spring wire wrap perfect. 


Pretty happy with the result. Now i have piles of mags. Might have to get rid of a few to help pay for some mags of the other calibers so I can make some of them as well. 
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If one can do it for a reasonable price for the mag and cheek riser shouldn't have any problem at all getting rid of them my friend just got a m3 and he's a lefty and I've read on the forum at least a half a dozen times what about the lefty's or what other people do when being left handed if you do let me know I'm sure my friend would like a kit

I could make the cheek riser easy. Now mags would be slightly more difficult. The mag lock is on the right side of the gun. I could take my current files and mirror them, then add a little nub off to the side that went over to where the mag lock is. Then the next challenge would be the “guard” that goes around the mag on the left side of the valve block. Would need to figure out how to reverse that to go the other way to make it truly a lefty setup
 
I got a mag from Orion iguana hunter which he mirrored for me and cheek piece I ordered off eBay for lefty the mod to change it to left hand m3 is a little more difficult but could be done with a Dremel and steady hand here is what my friends looks like now took forever to get the cheek piece I think it came from UK I'll be shooting it tomorrow to verify it works
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Got it figured out for the latch and the piece going around to the other side I'll post rest of pieces that I modded and did tomorrow after shooting it to make sure it works which it should

Looks good. What’s the front of the mag that faces the barrel look like?


He had to move the square for the mag lock over whatever width the valve block is. Wonder if that’s all he did to make that jive.