FX Crown leak

I picked up a used Crown and when I adjusted the regulator screw it started leaking, no problem bought a seal kit for the entire gun. I resealed the entire regulator as long as I had it out. Upon airing the gun up, I noticed air coming out of a weep hole on the side of the block, inline with the regulator. Any Crown owners have this issue and remedy? Thanks Rick
 
I think it may still be an issue with the regulator. Did you replace "all" of the O-rings including the one down in the action? The one that's a bit'*&@ to get out and put back in?
The dreaded o ring!! Makes men out of boys, and can put a man to his knees in tears, lol!

Everytime I pull the reg out and think I can get by w/o changing that o ring, it always bites me in the @$$, so I just change it when servicing a reg
 
Ok, I have replaced all the orings circled. Trying to find where D29 goes? It looks like it gets stacked on D30 at the top of the body?
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I’ve got #29 on my list as inner action.
That one can be a bit of a bugger to replace.
FX Crown o ring list

• C2- Inlet outer o-ring 10 x 2 NBR 70
  • C3 - Brass barrel inlet 6.35mm. 6.4 x 1.3 NBR 70
  • D19 - Valve plug o-ring. 14 x 2 NBR 70
  • D23 - Quick connect check valve. 2.5 x 1.5 NBR 90
  • D24 - Quick Connect. 12 x 1 NBR 70
  • D26 - Regulator piston. 4 x 1.5 NBR 70
  • D28 - Inner housing. 4 x 1.5 NBR 70
  • D29 - Inner action. 10 x 1.5 NBR 90
  • D30 - Outer housing. 7.5 x 2 NBR 70
  • D32 - Reg screw upper and lower. 2 x 1 NBR 90
  • D46 - Power adjuster. 11.1 x 1.6 NBR 70
  • D48 - Power adjuster. 6 x 2 NBR 70
  • Valve seat o-ring. 7 x 1.5 NBR 70
  • Valve pin o-ring. 1.5 x 1 NBR 70
  • Magazine o-ring. 3 x 1.5 NBR 70
  • Safety screw o-ring. 2.5 x 1.1 NBR 70
  • Barrel spacer o-rings. 20.24 x 2.62 NBR 70
  • Barrel cone o-ring inner. 9 x 1 NBR 70
  • Barrel cone o-ring outer. 23 x 1 NBR 90
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That’s the one inside the tunnel, or cavity, that the regulator goes into. The one I jokingly said has put men on their knees crying, or I should add all their hair pulled out.

Since your block is anodized black, it’ll be hard to see. You need a really bright flashlight held at an angle. Where the threads inside end, that o ring is just under the threads.

Take your wife’s longest and sharpest sewing needle, bend the tip slightly, about a 1/8” bend, and “prick feel” for it. Once you get a good stab at it, pry it out with that needle.
Clean that hole cavity with a q-tip soaked in acetone to get all the old lubes out. Then take a shop compressor blow out tool and blow out the cavity with short bursts.

When installing that new 10 x 1.5 o ring install it dry and lube it in place with silicone grease on a long tooth pick.

If you pre lube it and try to install it wet, you’ll pull whatever hair you have left off, and put all your pcp stuff in the classifieds-
 
That’s the one inside the tunnel, or cavity, that the regulator goes into. The one I jokingly said has put men on their knees crying, or I should add all their hair pulled out.

Since your block is anodized black, it’ll be hard to see. You need a really bright flashlight held at an angle. Where the threads inside end, that o ring is just under the threads.

Take your wife’s longest and sharpest sewing needle, bend the tip slightly, about a 1/8” bend, and “prick feel” for it. Once you get a good stab at it, pry it out with that needle.
Clean that hole cavity with a q-tip soaked in acetone to get all the old lubes out. Then take a shop compressor blow out tool and blow out the cavity with short bursts.

When installing that new 10 x 1.5 o ring install it dry and lube it in place with silicone grease on a long tooth pick.

If you pre lube it and try to install it wet, you’ll pull whatever hair you have left off, and put all your pcp stuff in the classifieds-
Super advice! Be very, very careful to NOT scratch any surface where any O ring runs and buff the piston surface as well as the mating adjustment screw surface with special 3M Polishing cloths (NO sandpaper). The biggest tip I can offer though is that (for me at least) it is next to impossible to install the two O rings (D-32) on the adjustment screw by hand without breaking the O rings. You really need a tapered guide made of plastic that just barely fits over the adjustment screw end. This guide must be lubed with silicon oil to easily slide the new O rings in place. The problem is that these rings must be NPR 90 and they do not stretch much and the screw in 4mm in diameter and the rings are 2mm x 1mm. You would think these guides would be for sale somewhere, but I have not seen them.
 
Super advice! Be very, very careful to NOT scratch any surface where any O ring runs and buff the piston surface as well as the mating adjustment screw surface with special 3M Polishing cloths (NO sandpaper). The biggest tip I can offer though is that (for me at least) it is next to impossible to install the two O rings (D-32) on the adjustment screw by hand without breaking the O rings. You really need a tapered guide made of plastic that just barely fits over the adjustment screw end. This guide must be lubed with silicon oil to easily slide the new O rings in place. The problem is that these rings must be NPR 90 and they do not stretch much and the screw in 4mm in diameter and the rings are 2mm x 1mm. You would think these guides would be for sale somewhere, but I have not seen them.
I had mine custom made-
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When I designed it I made it so the large end of the taper went over the adjustment screw head but came to a stop so when the o ring slid over it would land on that smooth section between the two o ring grooves.

I slide the first one to the lower groove and the second o ring up to the upper groove.

This tool will also work on the end of the impact valve rod where that one o ring goes on on the valve end.