fx carbon fiber barrel liner sleeve ,epoxy or epoxy not? :)

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Any...loose fitting sleeve will ONLY be a pretty cover ! It will NOT increase rigidity at all.

A simple test...put on a loose fitting jacket. Do some exercise (jumping jacks!)

Then try on a too tight fitting jacket and do the same exercise. See the difference !

The sleeve should be as tight a fit as a sleeve that you can buy. Then, the epoxy should cover the entire barrel before installing the sleeve. Putting the epoxy in just a few places will cause warpage (this has been tested and confirmed at the Aerospace company where I worked before retiring). Just be sure to cover the sleeve so the "squeezed-out' epoxy does not get on the outside of the sleeve.



Mike



P.s. - The "best" (people like this word !) fitting sleeve, would be a "press fit" (also confirmed) sleeve. Wet or dry, press fit is the way to go.
 
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Don’t confuse a tight fitting sleeve with ‘bbl tension’ as they are two different things. A tight fitting sleeve can only help but there’s no substitute for bbl tension when addressing harmonics. With firearms I have seen it done properly but to get this advantage on a pcp rifle, not so much.. Someone needs to build a bbl with threads at both ends to allow a shroud to be compressed (thus ‘stretching’ and stabilizing the full length of the bbl) under even tension.
 
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I want to point out a not so known fact. FX has changed their sleeve diameter slightly on some new sleeves and you can not put them on the barrel from the front, you must put them through the back but taking off the TP. This is a pain, and the fit is almost too tight. UTAG has confirmed this. They are not labeled either so you get what you get. You will not have much success bonding these sleeves. Just a heads up. My last two sleeve I had to put through the back taking off the TP and still it was not fun sliding It in correctly. Just info. 
 
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I want to point out a not so known fact. FX has changed their sleeve diameter slightly on some new sleeves and you can not put them on the barrel from the front, you must put them through the back but taking off the TP. This is a pain, and the fit is almost too tight. UTAG has confirmed this. They are not labeled either so you get what you get. You will not have much success bonding these sleeves. Just a heads up. My last two sleeve I had to put through the back taking off the TP and still it was not fun sliding It in correctly. Just info.
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thanks for the heads up, I prefer ordering from Ernest anyways .



I prefer epoxy the sleeve on just so it won’t move so I can eliminate another variable. 


 
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as a mechanic and machinest if it is a snug fitting sleeve, I'd lubricate it with locktite.. blue locktite if you might want to take it off.. but if permanent I'd use red locktite..

like another person said,press fit would be best, and even if you don't have a press, well I am not familiar with carbon fiber enough to advise, but if it was steel,I'd probably put the barrel in the freezer for a bit and get the barrel warm.. not too hot to touch and not frozen but between the two it should just slide right on and as the temperature evens it will tighten up..

we do it all the time with bearings and machined metal parts when we don't want to use a hydraulic press and chance scouring or bending something.. most people don't realize what cold and hot do to metal.. was working in north Dakota years ago and had a non adjustable spanner wrench for the tractor hydraulic cylinder I was rebuilding in a warm room.. took me awhile to figure out what happened, it was so much smaller than the cylinder and no way possible to get it on.. so I left it in the warm room and got lunch.. then it fit perfectly.. course it was probably 70 in the room and-30 in the shop toolbox..

the other poster had a even better idea if a threaded barrel to tension it, but you will still want it fairly close tolerance, in my opinion.. and what a great idea, threaded into the action, so no chance of movement and then why not have everything just right and put a Donny FL on the end for tensioner.. just thoughts

Mark
 
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I use JB weld on all of mine. It’s not rocket science. Clean the outside of the liner. Clean the tube like a barrel using acetone on both. Put your liner nut on the liner and mark it. When you slide the tube over the liner when glueing it, make sure you leave a little gap to your liner nut mark. Wipe off excess then find something else to occupy your time for 24 hours.
 
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