FX Bottle Valve Removal Tool

I came up with a way to remove the valve out of my FX bottle without a spanner wrench. I found a large socket in my tool box that I believe was a engine sending unit removal socket. I've had it for years and don't remember every using it. I started out by opening up the ID so that just the valve would slide in, drilled a hole that would match up with the hole in the valve. The photos will explain it better probably. I just snugged up the socket in my vice and unscrewed the bottle by hand. Sorry for the huge photos.

bottle tool 2.1644020414.jpg
bottle tool 5.1644020436.jpg
bottle tool 3.1644020457.jpg


bottle tool 4.1644020470.jpg

 
Thanks guys, I know Nathan mentioned his has some pretty good loctite applied to the one he took out. I think if I modified it any I would open up the mouth a little more so that the CF could go up in it maybe 1/2" and then have it reduced for the valve and re-drill the hole. It wouldn't be much different and no more than I'm ever going to remove the valves I'll probably just call it good. Kevin the 700 is going on my Crown to start off. I'll try it on my Impact but it might look a little long so I may get a 580 for it. We'll see..

Jking
 
I came up with a way to remove the valve out of my FX bottle without a spanner wrench. I found a large socket in my tool box that I believe was a engine sending unit removal socket. I've had it for years and don't remember every using it. I started out by opening up the ID so that just the valve would slide in, drilled a hole that would match up with the hole in the valve. The photos will explain it better probably. I just snugged up the socket in my vice and unscrewed the bottle by hand. Sorry for the huge photos.

View attachment 196361View attachment 196370View attachment 196376

View attachment 196383
What size socket did you start with? Watching the instructional video for the saber tactical toolset, they didn't even use the bottle-wrench & that's 50% of the kit.
I'd far rather do something like this.
 
I looked at the data on carbon fiber bonding epoxies and 200° F was well within temperature limits but even a hair dryer exceeded this temp by a good 100° F!

No, not a lot of thermal energy but held in the same place, close to the work surface, hot spots were guaranteed.

Also, the heat was localized and tended to sit on the surface, this just looked like a bad choice all around so I went with the oil bath for 40 minutes (clean mineral oil in a tiny crockpot) and I was able to remove the valve with little issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Trucker3573
What size socket did you start with? Watching the instructional video for the saber tactical toolset, they didn't even use the bottle-wrench & that's 50% of the kit.
I'd far rather do something like this.
I don't recall off-hand but I can see if there is anything legible on it or get a quick measurement.
 
Yeah they definitely need to be locked in there good. If the valve starts unscrewing from the bottle instead of the gun and the user doesn’t notice could result in a missle. Lol.
I'm thinking if the bottle has pressurized air in it the valve won't unscrew. Try it sometime. Even a little air.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DesertSilver
I looked at the data on carbon fiber bonding epoxies and 200° F was well within temperature limits but even a hair dryer exceeded this temp by a good 100° F!

No, not a lot of thermal energy but held in the same place, close to the work surface, hot spots were guaranteed.

Also, the heat was localized and tended to sit on the surface, this just looked like a bad choice all around so I went with the oil bath for 40 minutes (clean mineral oil in a tiny crockpot) and I was able to remove the valve with little issue.
Your hot oil bath is a great idea. The resin system they use is probably not rated for very high temperature. Using a hair dryer can over heat a localized area and weaken the resin bonding the fibers together.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firewalker