Anyone know the best source for replacing the Boss trigger wedge? The tip has sheared off such that the safety no longer engages. Thanks for any help/tips.
FX Boss Trigger Wedge
- Thread starter LB1444
- Start date
Anyone know the best source for replacing the Boss trigger wedge? The tip has sheared off such that the safety no longer engages. Thanks for any help/tips.
Fxusa probably has one or can get one, was it forced with the safety on?
You can probably get by with using a screw with a wider head than set screw style till the new part comes.
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Don’t really know how it happened. I never force anything. And I’m original owner. I thought about using a screw and tried one of the screws that holds the trigger plate on and the head is not quite wide enough. Thank you.
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I would be willing to bet FX would send you a replacement at no charge. It's like when your seatbelt breaks if your car is out of warranty. It's a SAFETY ISSUE. They're GREAT when it comes to customer service AND satisfaction!!! YO!
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I have recently worked on two separate FX Boss rifles. Had to replace the wedge on one because it broke where the CS screw is that holds the trigger wheel. That is exactly what a new one looks like. The rear screw on the actual trigger assembly is the safety adjustment
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Capefear I’m not sure I understand. Are you saying my wedge looks normal? If that were to be the case, not sure how the safety is supposed to engage. Any guidance would be much appreciated.
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The long screw in the photo is in line with the rear screw on the trigger assembly. You might be able to back out the one seen in the photo, but I just backed out the one on an assembly to the point the safety would no longer operate, then screwed it back in so it would operate properly.
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Here’s a more direct side photo. I don’t want to change the trigger set up so don’t want to turn out the other screw. Also, is the rocker piece the trigger wheel base or the trigger rail. Seems from the parts diagram it must be the whee base. I’m probably improperly referring to it as the wedge, which in older parts diagram was the rail.
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It is the wheel base. Here are two side by side. One on the left is a new part and that one is in the Fire position the other is on Safe.
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Super helpful. Really appreciate it. So I have to move the wheelbase back? Otherwise, I don’t understand how the safety allen set screw is supposed to contact the end of the wheel base. And doesn’t adjusting the screw in the wheel base change the trigger characteristics?
Leave the wheel base alone. It does not contact the screws. The wheel base is held by the wheel pin and can’t be moved anyway. Either turn the safety screw counter clockwise (long screw to the left) or turn the rear screw (at the right in this photo) clockwise, then test.
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Hi LB14444,
If you have any questions about replacements or warranty parts feel free to call in, or DM us with your personal information such as name, number, and email and we can have someone reach out to you as soon as possible.
Regards,
FX Customer Service Support
If you have any questions about replacements or warranty parts feel free to call in, or DM us with your personal information such as name, number, and email and we can have someone reach out to you as soon as possible.
Regards,
FX Customer Service Support
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Ok. Let me try that in a little while. Also, I notice that my safety lever has two distinct end points when moving to the safe position. The farthest position isn’t stable - it wants to click a few mm’s back. See pics below. So maybe that is contributing to the problem. Thanks so much for all your help.
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If you have the current version, there is a hole in the trigger rail (wedge), through which the top safety grub screw passes to meet the bottom screw. Here is a photo from the bottom that shows the hole.
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Speaking of the safety on this match trigger, I've played around with mine quite a bit, and have concluded you need to be very cautious in its setup. I'm not a big fan of the standard trigger, but it does have one good feature. The design of the trigger wheel provides for a comfortable margin of safety, since the sear has to pass over a portion of the wheel (first stage) before it gets to the depression which releases it. The match trigger uses the same trigger wheel, but in a manner for which it was not designed. It places the sear right on the edge of its release point, and the "first stage" does not move the wheel at all, it is merely a fake first stage for feel. You can adjust the position of the trigger rail, and thus the wheel/sear engagement point, with the grub screw in the trigger rail. Be sure to pay attention to this setting, and check for engagement security by a good bump test. I left that grub screw out, giving the deepest engagement surface possible, and I still feel no creep at all. Personally, I will use this trigger only at the range. As my Royale 400 sits at the moment, awaiting a squirrel attack, it has the standard trigger in place. I am not alleging a safety issue with the trigger, but, IMO, this odd design using a trigger wheel does not adapt well to a precision match trigger application. But my wife says I'm always wrong.
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