I wanted to perform a disassembly on my GK1 and watched the vid by Kelly at KrazCool and he basically does a controlled demolition whereas in the Wolfiek group it appears the simply unscrew a grub screw at the top and it slowly vents I know Kelly knows his sh*t, is there a reason he does it the way he does? Thank you!
- The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.
Huben [follow up] 2 different methods for degassing the GK1 (explosive disassembly?)
- Thread starter Bernie7
- Start date
I just sent a text message link of this post to kelly at Kraz Cool Airguns and included the video. He is usually very busy, and doesn't spend much time in the forums. I'll report back when he replies to me.
Last edited:
So, there are 4 different ways you can degas and the one I used in that video was the same one Huben themselves demonstrated in a previous YouTube showing how to replace the open valve seal. This method is the quickest, I wanted the video to be short, and this method isn’t possible with a jammed projectile or lower than needed air pressure to “fire”. My second choice would be the brass flat head screw under the loading gate. My third choice would be the silver set screw under the air probe fill on the GK1 where the check valve is located. And my last or never choice would be the torx screw at the top of the receiver. Why - because there is no o-ring on this screw and after loosened you can get a slow leak. In 2 instances I have repaired the owner tried to “fix” the slow leak by over tightening the torx screw and in 1 instance sheared it off and in the second instance stripped the threads in the top receiver block. Both were costly repairs.
Your knowledge is greatly appreciated! I think I’ll stick with method two or three. With every other PCP I’ve owned other than an L2, degassing was always performed by loosening the pressure gauge so I was a little confused.
Upvote 0
Forgive the silly question but is the brass screw under the loading gate designed to be used as a bleed screw? Basically do I need to be worried about backing it out too much and having the screw turn into a projectile or I’ll have plenty of room to hear a hiss and allow a slow bleed?
Thank you!
Thank you!
Upvote 0
Upvote 0
For both option 2 and 3 brass flat head screw and 4mm silver bottom set screw, I would recommend very slow 1/4 turn increments and both of these will start to bleed at about 1 3/4 turn point. Always keep these pointed away from
your face while slowly unthreading and stopping to listen for the escaping air at each 1/4 turn move. Regarding the “designed to bleed” comment - both these have o-rings on them that can be replaced easily - so they are more designed to be used for bleed off than the top of receiver block torx screw which has no o-ring.
your face while slowly unthreading and stopping to listen for the escaping air at each 1/4 turn move. Regarding the “designed to bleed” comment - both these have o-rings on them that can be replaced easily - so they are more designed to be used for bleed off than the top of receiver block torx screw which has no o-ring.
Upvote 0